Rebuild For "miles"

That was a quart size Ziploc bag it is an example to all ziploc bags.

Edit:
I've been loosing track of my child threads and to-do lists, so I'm posting all my current issues here (first post of the page)

To-do:
Brace glove box to firewall.
Make grommet for TBI harness at glovebox.
Rebuild exhaust.
Finish up-idle switch panel
install high clearance u-bolt plates and new shocks.
Rebuild axles with 4.27 gears.
install rear side reflectors.
Reinforce transmission skid plate (maybe add e-brake skid)
maybe drop the t-90 for a less used 3rd gear synchro.
Remote distributor breather.

Axle rebuild, from 5.38 to 4.27 gears and going from open to powr-loc on the front.
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/158807/#post-1830744

Engine, TBI issues
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/157577/page-2

 

Some one else actually has a top like yours Joe!
http://www.ewillys.com/2024/05/10/1969-cj-5-tucson-az-4500/

 

It's been a good top, I need to start thinking about replacing windows, zippers, vinyl, and add a bar or plate to keep it from wearing the hair off the top of my head.

The frame is basically a canvas half cab frame so I might take some liberties and add a zipper here or there. I'm thinking of a half / fastback /summer / full enclosure based on the canvas threads but in vinyl with pop-up camper style rear windows (fixed bug screen with zipper windows) so the kids can get a breeze but keep the Mosquitos away.

 

I actually did a thing today! (Busy week with lots of free lunches so I didn't run home -except to mow-)

Ok the new to me powr-loc has some bumps and bruises where the shims need to go:



The 3d printed shaft saved the day


After:

 

Wash rinse repeat with the other half:




This side could have turned out a little better but the metal was raised a bit more:

 

Since I was at the shop, I left with a spindle in the chuck for another day. I don't have plans to go full floating but if I were to snap an axle it makes sense to have a hub assembly or two ready. I figure I will run 19 spline shafts if anything so I just need to bore this out to fit the 3d print dummy shaft then I'll 3d print a center plug.
I'm not looking forward to trueing the back face of the hubs to fit rotors.

 

Late report...
Started tearing down the front axle for the gear change, powr-loc, and high clearance u-bolt plates.

Driver side wheel bearings are asking to be replaced, notchy feel to it when rotated.

Got the locking hubs off, fromt wheel hubs an rotors off. Old spring plates are off. Gotnthe nuts off for the spindle and caliper brackets but they will seek the BFH in the morning (city, noise, blah blah blah) started fitting the new u-bolt plates.

Here is a loose slap on the axle. Not terrible about 1/4" interference and I was tempted to add a leaf and walk away.


First thing first, my old plates had 13/16" center bolt holes. The new plates have a hole to match the spring bolt if you want to bolt it into the spring pack or to leave plenty of meat if you need to make them offset. I'm not offsetting the front due to steering constraintsnso i opened the pilot hole to 11/16 or so to tightly clear the nut on my spring packs... I will offset the rear springs a touch.

With the center hole opened up I was able to pull the spring pack a little to the side now it's almost perfect.




Plate is a little crooked still.


Sharpie to display interference


End of day:

 

Posting most of the spring plate stuff here, gear swap and engine have threads that will be at a different pace. So the small stuff that brings a jeep together will stay here...

Front axle shafts are out for the gear swap prep, spindles are on without caliper brackets.

Front passenger spring plate:
The four tabs are welded between the u-bolt slots, leaving 2" from each end open for hardware. Weld the inside heavy but the u-bolt side needs to be minimal radius to clear the hardware. This is at the minimum of thread on these .5" u-bolts (I don't remember where they are from) but I've gained a little over an inch of clearance on the threads which has become annoying since I don't have deepwell sockets yet and the difference is more than I can run on my regular sockets. You need to run the nut down before you lop off the extra thread.



I also did a little nip/tuck on the housing.
My note here is to leave the bottom web alone for the most part. I ground it down a bit and I'm not really proud about it. What I would do next time is grind the plate as needed, next the top of the housing, back flange and a lug on the front need ground down.
I think I'm happy with the clearance of the plate so hopefully tomorrow I can finish grinding and get it able to support the rig.

Shocks are still TBD because I need to get some measurements.



One last view of the topside, I have more grinding to do for the bolt to be square and evenly supported, then I think it will get a small reinforcement clear of the u-bolts.


I plan to get the spring plates installed on all four corners, so I need to throw on some spare hubs without rotors and put spacers in the calipers and turn it around.

Don't mind the mess... it's pretty tight quarters in my garage.

 

I assume you will be welding gussets to the ends of the spring plates. If you don't, when tightening the U-bolts, I expect the spring plate flange will bend preventing proper or maintaining U-bolt torque.

 

The ends will get capped but the torque is limited to something like 90 lbs per ruff-stuff's instructions on there site. I plan to run a shock stud along the flange and notch the corners of yhe bracket. It needs some flexy time but the stock shackles are too short limiting droop.

Gotta pin this build for some comparison. (I'm running stock springs)

 

Slowly nibbling away at this. I am almost done welding gussets (one tab went awol) then I'll need to start on the front axle gears once parts arrive.


i welded the tabs with 2" clearance from the end except the pumpkin u-bolt side. That one I moved the tabs out about a material thickness.
I'll stress again that you must be careful not to fill into where your washer will sit. I'll likely need to trim some washers to sit flat since you can't get anything but a rotory stone in there if you get wild.

It is also a good idea to do one side at a time, don't undo both ends of an axle or it may roll a bit on you especially when you are massaging the center section you need to keep the driver side bolted solid.

Tools needed so far:
Drill, Step bit
Welder & PPE
Pliers to hold tabs while welding
Angle grinder
cut off wheel to trim u-bolts and notch spring plate for bottom web
Grinding wheel for top of pumpkin (mine took material off fast)
Flap disk for smoothing
Deepwell socket to run nuts up on the u-bolts before trimming.

 

Posting a little cliffnote here for future reference.
Two years ago I installed the spartan locker and I put a magnet in the cover. This jeep currently has 48168 miles on the odometer.

The locker was installed around 47419 miles.
So about 750 miles, plus maybe 750 more flat towed with the driveshaft removed.

This is what the magnet was able to catch...
And note that I put this magnet at the top of the oil level where it was flat.
20240626_123505 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

In other news the rest of the rear end is almost disassembled, one center pin lost it's nut which is weird. I'll pull the axle for a proper hot soapy cleaning at the local carwash.
20240627_130000 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

 

Another day another 30min, if you guys have not noticed the only time I get in the garage is by driving home on lunch, otherwise I am whittling quietly late at night in the basement, listening closely for the pitter patter of feet upstairs.

Otherwise I'm posting here and there, loosing my mind, waiting on the PC at work... one time I took t-90 gears in and a knife sharpening stone...

Anyway, Progress is progress:
Rear axle is out

20240628_122534 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

Driver side center pin hole is a little worse for the wear. This explains a bit of torque steer and the tire noise at speed.


Passenger side is ok


Draw bar is coming out for tlc, general workplace happyness (not hitting my head or shins) and maybe some tlc on the frame. Spring bushings are not as bad as the front was but the rear shackle hangers are bent, passenger side is pretty bad (no pictures of that)


The list...
Finish teardown
Clean rear housing and spring packs.
Fix center pin hole
Rebuild rear with 4.27 gears - Done
Rebuild spring packs 7 leaf and new bushings
Rear spring plates.
Make medium duty mcruff style shackles
Shock mounts
Inspect driveshaft and u-joints
Recovery points
Reassemble rear
Pull front carrier
Install powr-loc with 4.27 gears
Finish front shocks
Build new exhaust system
Install Body mounts...
Brace glove box to firewall.
Make grommet for TBI harness at glovebox.
Finish up-idle switch panel
install rear side reflectors.

Fix the 69:
Frame horns
radiator
Fan
battery tray
spud shaft
floors
Seat belts

back on the 60:
Reinforce /repair transmission skid plate (maybe add e-brake skid)
maybe drop the t-90 and replace 3rd gear synchro.
Remote distributor breather.
Remote fuel tank breather
Remote axle breathers
Remote transfercase breather.
Patch air filter housing and clearance throttle body
Connect crankcase breather to intake filter housing.
Remote Vent master cylinder cover (keep mud and water from packing in)
Install top bow pockets
Lengthen bikini top or make summer one PC.
Fix front fender

 

Got the draw bar off and the spring bushings do need replaced. The shackle hangers are tweaked to the side so I need to address this now.
20240711_121932 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

 

Not much could really do with the axle today with it dancing around and having a bum thumb. so it was a good opportunity to look at the rear shackle hangers.

My frame is looking sad but I don't see myself addressing the hangers and frame horn twist before the fall reunion. I need to push on with the gears tomorrow.

1.75" ctr to top 2.5" overall


2.75" from front & 4" long overall


About 5.75" from front of the bracket to the rear of the frame rail


Rivets are about .5" from each end

 

Got a lot done today, axle is hanging in the chassis (I forgot to stop at the store for the torque adapter)

First issue, the axle vent plug is where the u-bolt wants to be.

In my head that was a simple fix. Turns out the plug is hollow to the exact length of the threads.

At least it is well vented, and brass.

Anyway we will address that later, I'll dig it out I also have some spring center bolt holes in the spring pads to fix and wheel bearing vents to drill and tap. But for now... gears..... and cleaning this pig pen.
I'll do all that and a good cleaning before putting the shafts in with new wheel bearings.

 

Got this guy knocked out. I'm going to throw these spindles on the rear axle with some old hubs... because remember I don't trust jackstands...

 

Axle vent on the tube is plugged with an appropriately sized steel sacrifice burned into unity with the tube.

Then I made the dumb mistake of trying to drill out and tap the old wheel bearing vent that I already welded over. So my recommendation to anyone looking at what to do with the holes. Weld over the differential vent, drill and tap the wheel bearing vents and carry appropriately threaded plugs for water crossings.

I'm taping 1/8" pipe thread on the wheel bearing vents so I can do a remote vent sort of thing... It's silly but todaywe will just lay down the threads and move on.

I need to get the new wheel bearings and seals installed then disassemble the front to put the brake backing plates on. Then reassemble with brake backing plates and steering. It won't be the first time we have someone in 2wd on the fall reunion trails. Then at least it can parade around in a bikini or stick to the main access trails.

The high clearance spring plates are bolted to the springs but still need the shock studs. I'm not sure I want to weld the studs to the plates while assembled to the springs but I needed them bolted down to have the shocks located.

 

It occurred to me the other day that the full floating spindles will not work single sided on a tapered axle. Once the opposing shaft let's go it allows the good bearing to loose it's preload. Probably fine to get off a trail but not good when flat towing...