69' CJ5 225 V-6 ignition problems.

Where to start...A while ago the P.O. decided to put a patronix ignition in the delco distributor, which served me well for a while but I decided to go for the original feel...points, dwell, the works. Bought a brand new remain distributor with it all. In the process I also attained a new cap, rotor, coil. I havent replaced the resistor yet and may do that, but only after I get a few pieces of advice if possible! I also have a GM 1-wire alternator from a 75' Skylark if that makes a difference.

So currently I have a very base ignition system wired. Power currently is coming from a fuse box and goes to the "battery" portion of the ignition switch. I put a the coil wire from the "ignition" to the resistor, then a positive wire to the coil.

After spending a good portion of time trying to get it to start, the engine will not turn. I've checked everything for my wiring and even compared the mock up I created to what a master mechanic at my work scribbled out for me and with a multi-meter checks out all the continuities and lack there of.

If I havent lost anyone by now, I dont have spark. Pulled the #1 plug and kept it attached to the wire and zip Trying not to rack my brain on this one...does anyone have a suggestion by chance?

 

lets start with . engine wont turn . as to maybe a dead battery or did you fry the starter
as to going back to points & condenser . you need 12 Volts to Positive side of coil (+post) . the negative side goes to points in distributor . point gap I think is .016 . this is set on one of the pointed lobes .also coil has to be grounded . back in the day we would just Hot Wire a car . just to hear the engine run . 12 Volt battery post to positive side of coil .and take a screw driver and jump the starter solenoid . to crank engine , just remember car must be in neutral or park . now I wouldn't recommend . running long without the resistor . that drops voltage and saves points
now the last thing . Are you sure you have the Distributor in the right place . #1 cylinder TDC and rotor pointing to #1 on distributor cap , the odd fire engine doesn't like spark plug wires off - out of order on cap . if you have met all the conditions the engine should start or back fire / timing
one thing about points & condenser , you'll never know if its the condenser unless you replace it (No Spark) good luck . its really not that complicated

 

I figured it out, just swaps the distributor and properly set the timing through an old mechanics trick. Just my lack of knowledge and heat getting to me! Thanks for the reply. Going to delete this thread tomorrow some time.

 

No need to delete the thread. You could post some more details about your solution. I'm sure others will be interested in the future.

 

OK,

Well basically I ran into an issue where the ballast wasn't creating the voltage drop needed through to the coil. Before swapping it, the voltage was a hot 12.5 after swapping the ballast out it fell to about 5.8 ~ 6 volts. After using a multi-meter to make sure that everything still had continuity all I was getting was a spiff of smoke coming from the top of the carb (smelled like CO2). From there I had to physically turn the crank to about where the first cylinder would be. With the distibutor cap off I approximated where the 1st cylinder was on the cap. With the ignition on and power being sent to the coil, I slowly turned the base of the distributor until I saw a spark coming from the point gap bellow where the 1st cyl. sat.

I said a few hail marrys then turned the key over and it took off like a shot! Granted the V-6 is idling a smidge high it sounds great. I had to eyeball where my TDC was because I dont have the stock Timing cover with the degree tab. Hope this helps anyone in the future!

 

I think you are describing "static timing." It's a way of setting the timing with the engine off. The usual equipment is a 12V light bulb on long leads with alligator clips on each end. Set the timing mark, clip the leads between the coil and ground, and turn the distributor till the bulb just lights.

http://dsb.yuku.com/topic/2755/Static-Timing#.U3g59uhX-uY

 

It was a method similar to that without the light. But yes!

 

One thing to remember when you are using a resistor coil, the starter solenoid has a bypass terminal on it to put a full 12V to the coil while it's cranking. When you release the key after it starts the bypass is disconnected and power to the coil runs through the resistor. The bypass will give it a hotter spark for starting. I don't remember if it's the R or S terminal on the solenoid, but you can look it up. The wire from this terminal runs directly to the positive side of the coil along with the wire from the resistor.

 

I have a 1970 V6 and mine never had 2 wires running to the coil should it have?

 

Sometimes they ran the wire from the "R" terminal on the solenoid up to the coil side of the ballast resistor. Same effect only different location.