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1966 CJ5 Instrument Cluster Wiring

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by davistroy, Aug 15, 2009.

  1. Feb 11, 2022
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    I'm not the 225 expert. Suggest you ask your comrades. Yeah, you need to drain it to below the fitting.
     
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  2. Feb 11, 2022
    truckee4x4

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    @Norcal69 Didn't you install a Tee fitting for both your EFI temp sender and a traditional one?
     
  3. Feb 14, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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  4. Feb 14, 2022
    truckee4x4

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  5. Feb 14, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I'm pretty sure it goes from the intake to the water pump since it's on the suction side of the water pump.
     
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  6. Feb 14, 2022
    truckee4x4

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    So that Tee would go into the heater hose as close to the intake manifold as possible then? The heater came with a 1/4 turn shut off that I also have to add (sorry if this is off topic for this thread)
     
  7. Feb 14, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    This would give you the most accurate reading.
     
  8. Feb 14, 2022
    Chip Addis

    Chip Addis New Member

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    Can someone tell me where #1, #4, and #10 get wired to the ignition pictured below?
    Thanks in advance!
    [​IMG] upload_2022-2-14_22-53-10.png
     
  9. Feb 21, 2022
    truckee4x4

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    Don't they all get connected to the IGN terminal? Or spliced together and then routed to that terminal?
     
  10. Feb 21, 2022
    truckee4x4

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    Tim - Question for you.

    Like one of the posters above, I have a painless number #10105 wiring harness.

    The power to the instrument cluster comes from a red wire with a white stripe that says voltmeter/gauges B+. This is fused from the ignition switch.

    What I am wondering is: can I run a jumper from post #1, where this red/white wire brings 12v, to the two hot legs of the lightbulbs (#4, #10) on the back of the speedometer case?

    I ran a jumper from my ground bus bar to one of the cluster MOUNTING posts FROM BACK OF DASHBOARD (edited for clarity), and checked for continuity on the case housing and it’s grounded.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2022
  11. Feb 22, 2022
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Well, it's all DC circuits, so connecting more things should not make any difference if 1) you don't mistakenly create a loop back to the ignition switch (back-feeding) 2) the wire and fuse are both sufficient to handle the extra load.

    Numbers 4 and 10 are the power supply for the OP and Alt lights resp. These should be grouped with the gauges power supply. They are basically digital (on-off) gauges.

    This is not necessarily the same as the ignition power. Do you want the ignition to be fused with the gauges? Maybe not. What does your Painless docs say?
     
  12. Feb 22, 2022
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    This bothers me though. None of the "cluster posts" should be grounded. Don't mistake low resistance for ground. 5 and 9 should be close to ground when the OP is zero or the alternator is not charging resp. 4 and 10 should show the bulb resistance plus the resistance through 5 and 9 resp. A bulb filament has low resistance when it's cold, and increases a lot when hot (very non-linear).
     
  13. Feb 22, 2022
    truckee4x4

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    The Painless #10105 docs say:
    Image 2-22-22 at 6.29 AM.jpg

    From this I presume on my 1966 CJ5 OEM Cluster:
    • #735 (red/white stripe) from Fuse Panel to Post #1 on the Cluster (this provides power to the gauges)
    • #736 (green) goes to light bulb #7 on cluster from Dimmer Switch to High Beam Indicator Light bulb
    • #730 (brown) goes to bulb #6 auxiliary to light up cluster from Headlight Switch
    • #739 (pink) goes to post #3 on cluster from Fuel tank sender
    • #721 (light green) goes to post #11 on cluster from grounded Temp sender I spliced into "tee" in heater hose from intake manifold
    • #722 (light blue/black) goes to bullb #5 Oil pressure idiot light from oil pressure sender (***note - I actually ran this wire to a separate electric Equus oil pressure psi gauge, whose sender has two leads - one light and one pressure psi. I ran the #722 to the Equus gauge and ran a new wire from the Equus sender light post to the cluster bulb as described)
    So the question is - do I need to run separate wires from Cluster bulb #4 and #10 directly to the IGN post on the keyed switch (which is running out of room on mine due to the EFI power pink wire "switched ignition"), or can I gang them together with a jumper from the supply to the cluster on Post #1?I wouldn't think the two light bulbs are that much extra load on the wire....right?
     
  14. Feb 22, 2022
    truckee4x4

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    My apologies; I wasn't being clear with my words - in this case I meant the posts that protrude from the back of the dashboard to which the cluster mounts. I will edit my post.
     
  15. Feb 22, 2022
    timgr

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    Your main problem - they are giving you way more circuits than you need.

    I would use either 739 or 721 for post 1. Since both gauges use the same CVR, you have to chose one or the other if you are going to use the CVR.

    Then you could use 722 for the OP light and 735 for the Alt light.

    It's probably ok to connect 1 to 4 and 10. Assume you're using points ignition? If not, you might need a diode between 1 and 4 (or between 735 and 4).
     
  16. Feb 22, 2022
    truckee4x4

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    #739 comes from the fuel sender in the tank, it does not have 12V power so I don't think I can connect that to Cluster post #1.

    I have a HEI distributor, which is fed B+ power by Painless wire #720 pink (14 ga) from fuse panel.

    I have a Powermaster one-wire alternator that is fed power by per this Painless #PP-662 diagram:
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_8aca.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2022
  17. Feb 22, 2022
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    One-wire is not capable of running an Alt light, so don't bother with that.

    Yeah, I misread the table. Pink is the usual color for the fuel tank sender, at least in Jeeps. You can use any ignition switch connection (looks like there are 6 of them).
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2022
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  18. Feb 22, 2022
    truckee4x4

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    So given the extra circuits, I wonder if instead of a jumper from cluster post #1 to bulb 4 (and IGNORE 10, no connection), I could just use one of the unused b+ wires, like #761 emergency brake switch.
     
  19. Feb 22, 2022
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Don't see why not. I presume it's fused. You have an overabundance of circuits to choose from. Jeeps are simple compared to contemporary cars, much less modern cars.

    If you run a parts store SI alternator, you can have an alternator light. Only one more wire.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2022
  20. Feb 22, 2022
    truckee4x4

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