'66 Cj5 Tux Resto-mod

You are making great progress, especially for learning as you go. I like the idea of fabricating a front cross member to help support the frame behind the chrome bumper. You may want to consider integrating the new crossmember with a winch plate. That could add substantial strength and be useful as well.

And nice score on the set of chrome bumpers. I managed to find a rear license plate bracket from one of the other members, but haven't tried to find a set of bumpers yet.

Mike

 

I went to the shop at lunch (there are definitely some advantages to working at home) and took some pictures of the '69. It's mostly original but pretty dirty since we live on gravel (read mud in the springtime) roads.

Pretty tight clearances all around, but the fender is about even with the back of the shackle, so most of your stuff seems to be far enough back to not interfere. I think your one line going over the top will also clear. You might need a tiny bit of clearancing at the most. It looks like the back corner of my inner fender is bent down some and there would be even more room if it was bent back into place.

 

Thank you!

 

Thanks Mike!

I re-routed the lines between the MC and PV up and over between the Ross and the MC. Kinda tricky making the bends but I think it’s safer routing overall.



And I added some protective hose to the lines that still are under the frame.




Might draft up a design for a protective plate to enshroud the PV / lines this weekend and see how that goes. The Brake light switch on the PV is about 1/8” wider than the body of the PV so it needs a spacer out from the frame anyway, which would be a good place to bolt on the side of the armor contraption and wrap it around the bottom like a big "C."

Off to the cardboard drawing board!

 

Can anyone tell me how to determine how to cut the correct length of the Brake Dual Reservoir master cylinder piston rod?

 

The procedure here is for a power booster, but it's the same idea;

• https://www.jegs.com/installationinstructions/500/555/555-631010-116.pdf

Basically you want to make sure the piston returns past the ports in the reservior while having very little free travel in the pedal.

 

Thanks @Fireball

Now I have a question for the Tux folks @Beach66Bum / @maurywhurt or anyone who's restored a license plate holder.

Is this a sleeve around the bolt hinge pin that goes through the assembly? I can't get the threaded part to move independently of the sleeve to get it apart for bead blasting. Wondering if the sleeve / bolt are rusted together?

 

Whipped up a quick box for the Proportioning Valve.

Made it on the laser first out of wood, refined the design/fit a couple times, then found some scrap 16ga and made one out of metal with some quick Mig tacks.






Not sure if I will run it or not, it doesn't completely box in the lines, but seems like it would help debris from hitting the lines and the PV. The "nut" on top of the brake light switch stopped in such a way so as that it protrudes out past the body walls of the PV, which necessitates leaving some space for it.

If I do make one I might use thicker steel and try to Tig it just for some practise in that process as I am a beginner.

Got the rear bumper mounted:

Wondering if I can save these amber parking lights or if it's worth getting new (Chinese?) ones.

 

Yes, that is a sleeve. It will fall out once the bolt with the wing nut is removed.
I also see the added ground wire. I did the same thing for mine. No more flickering license plate bulb! I ran the wire longer, thru the wiring loom, to the frame. A much better ground connection than relying on the tailgate hinges.

 

A few different options for the parking lights. You can find NOS ones on eBay. Or the Omi-ada ones, but they have plastic housings! Or run with the patina originals.

 

How do you get in there to change the bulb, does the bulb socket twist off?

 

The 2 screws that hold the chrome housing, remove the nuts and slide the chrome housing free to access the bulb. A bit more of work to change the bulb but trying to twist and free the original “pull out” “push in” from the back, I was afraid to damage the electrical socket housing.

 

Thanks. I had the same fear I'm afraid one of mine is missing a threaded post...it snapped off at some point.

Do you know if there is a good central repository of Tuxedo Park information/parts lists? I'm wondering if it might be helpful to start a Google spreadsheet or even a website to collect all this information for those of us who are always on the hunt for all of these Tux parts.

 

Fwiw eBay has Indian made lights the housings are kinda cheesy but the lenses fit perfect I’m running clear lensed ones as back up lights.

 

Another question I wanted to ask you serious restoration guys – let’s say I was really going to restore this license plate frame instead of just bead blasting it and spray painting it.

It’s got some pretty deep pitting here and there from sitting out in a field for 20 years or so. What could you do to fill the pitting in and smooth it out under a topcoat? Is this a scenario where you would use something like Bondo? Or would JB Weld be more appropriate? Or would the right thing to do would be to fill the pitting with solder or brazing?

 

For rechrome they would weld the pits and grind/polish smooth then rechrome. For paint blast em epoxy prime and fill em if you choose that route.

 

For finding Tuxedo parts, I’ve used this forum (awesome group of guys,) Google searches, eBay (you can get original NOS parts when they come up, and original pamphlets) Facebook Jeep pages are another source to track down Tux parts. You need to check every day, on all the sources. Parts do show up.

 

So as you guys know, this is my first go at restoring/rebuilding/modifying a vehicle. I'm still waiting for the engine to come back from the rebuilder. Looking for other areas of the project to tackle. The body is an obvious choice but I don't have room to really work on it at the moment and it's still too cold to do any paint.

Would it be foolish to unbox my Painless wiring kit that I have had on a shelf for five years and start thinking about running wires in the frame channels? Is that something you typically do much later in a build?

 

I did that pretty much last.
have you been inside the axles? change bearings and seals? Good time killer.

 

Yeah I had planned on doing wiring last...but Im in a bottleneck for a couple weeks until I get the engine back.

Yes I've been inside the axles (and tcase and tranny and driveshafts and Ross and frame....)