'66 Cj5 Tux Resto-mod

Yes, I don't have EFI, and run my supply and return from the stock pump down the left rail to the (under seat) tank. They get good air circulation, and it's the shortest route. I just think that because heat rises off the motor and trans, that route is a problem.

 

Thanks. With this system, at least with the kit I bought, I need to run an external pump with a pre and post filter before and after it, and place the pump lower than the under seat tank.

The easiest/safest place I could find was in the RH frame rail, with the supply line going out the bottom (drain) of the tank, and back across the arched cross member, and into the rail. Then probably steel line from the post filter along the rail, up under the engine mount and up to the EFI…I think?

 

Clearance is pretty tight between the body and bell housing/back of engine on my jeep as well as Steve's.
When I was running my filter/pump on the passenger side I ran both the feed and return through the passenger frame rail, then up the toeboard, out from kinda under the battery tray and over to the throttle body. I used some heat sleeve to protect the hose from chaffing and heat.



My hookup locations are of course different, but you can accomplish the same thing. I tried to get as little engine to fuel line contact as possible.

 

This is great thanks. And you ran just hose, or hose and steel?

And also - dumb question: is it necessary to have a heater, or can you eliminate that entirely? This Jeep came with a heater core out of a 2007 Tundra and I tossed it. I doubt it will ever be driven in the wintertime.

 

I am currently running all hose. The GM TBI systems are very low pressure and run on 12PSI All unused fuel just runs back to the tank.
Someday I plan to either hardline about 5' of the system with rubber on the ends or upgrade to a full aeroquip type hose with AN fittings. Random parts store fuel hose is so poorly made now days I pretty much just replace it all every year.

As far as the heater goes...... you do have a wife don't you?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-991102-1
Spring and fall get chilly in the high elevations.......

 

Something else to consider......
If you are ever overheating the heater will exchange quite a bit of engine heat. Running the heater on high often keeps an otherwise overheating engine manageable. Not that I would ever set out with a plan to run the heater in the summer... but it's a good way to get you back home!

 

Haha yes I do, and a 2 and a half year old....good point. The wife is Australian too so she's always cold and I typically just tell her to put on another puffy....and being Australian she wouldn't ask for a glass of water to put her hair out if it was on fire. Probably not a bad idea to make her comfortable and have a heat exchanger.

Is that the heater you run that you linked from Summit? Will it bolt up to where the stock heater goes? I did restore the fan that was in the pax compartment so I do have that. Question - on the stock intake that I have, do the inlet/outlet 5/8" hoses to the heater go from the top of the water pump and the side of the intake under the EFI? Those are the only two passages I have open....

I like your routing suggestions. I have the hard line coil so I might try and give it a a go, although I suspect I will have to roll the body over and hoist it onto the frame to finalize the routing.

 

I am running the summit heater. It is mounted on the passenger side behind the glove box. One hose comes from the intake port, the other comes from the water pump nipple.

 

Funny. My wife has been driving the jeep to work since June, top off, after we passed her Cherokee down to my son. Once the weather cooled down, (30's in the morning) that got old in a hurry. So top on, and I showed her the really great Mojave heater control. That thing will cook you out of there. And last weekend, she finally got her new car.

 

Made some progress yesterday -- in the wrong direction! What's wrong with this picture?


See what I did there?


I'm an idiot. Hopefully others can learn from my mistake. The good news is that I got my O2 bung welded on. The bad news is that I forgot to secure the flange to the end of the pipe before I welded it, and - sure enough - it won't pass over the bung. So, I had to cut it off. I had planned to cut it, weld it back together past the bung, and then I looked at it carefully and realized that I don't have a high enough level of metalworking skills to return it to operable shape.

So, it looks like FLAPS will come to the rescue with a split flange. But now I'm concerned that the exhaust won't be air tight and the sensor won't read accurately. Can anyone recommend a good sealant I could apply to the end of the header/flange to ensure there are no leaks? Depending on how the split flange fits tomorrow I may consider welding it up to see if that helps the situation.



Other than that I have hopes today to finish the fuel line plumbing and hoist the body on to triple check that there are no issues. I'm in a holding pattern waiting for an opening at the painters in Sparks, so I figured I may as well move forward with some other things (wiring?) and un-do it whenever it's time to go to paint.

 

Are you headed over the hill to the Redding area anytime soon? I can fix that for you.

 

I used this on a stock V6 system on my '67 on the manifold connection that was kind of rough. Seems to have held up.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTX...mz2tBh0vVQSKEAQYBCABEgLEnPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&

 

Wow thanks....that would be great but no I'm not sadly. Hopefully the split flange will do the trick.

 

If you cut that flange on one side with a cut off wheel. Spread the flange with a big flat screw driver. Pass it over the O2 bung. Remove the screw driver, use a c clamp across the bolt holes to compress the flange back to position, leaving a small gap to account for the cut of wheel and weld it up. Only weld on the outside of the flange and top surface.
You can cut a little on the opposite side as well to make it spread easier, just don't cut it completely in half. It should be pretty easy, give it a try.

 

I was thinking this also.

 

I was as well - but if the shape of the chamfered surface that mates to the exhaust pipe is even 0.001” off, and the seal isn’t perfect, then the o2 sensor ( which is is right there) will give an inaccurate reading….right?

 

I think your giving that stamped piece more credit than it’s designed for.

 

Looks like this split flange will do the trick. Phew…



Now back to the crank tach sensor…

@timsresort can you describe or post a pic of where you mounted your Mojave heater? I found a thread from 2019 in which you said you mounted it dead center?

 

Morning all. Made some more progress this weekend. Got some friends to help me lift the tub on the body so I could check the fitment and make final adjustments, as well as finalize fuel hose routing.



Put the dash on to get an idea of where wires will eventually go.


There's a noticeable gap between the steering column and where it should be. I have 1/2" poly body spacer pucks installed at the moment - thinking maybe this might not work, but I need to unbolt the Ross box and see how much I can tilt it.


Fuel:
Got the fuel hose return cut and installed.

There's a bit of a gap under the tank strap that I will have to eithe rmake up with a spacer or fabricate a new strap. Will probably do that. I think this tank is OEM, it came from a member on here in Carson City off of his 1963 CJ6.

Got all of the wiring roughed out to where it should be going.

Had a bit of concern that the pink wire from tthe Sniper shouldn't be attached to the IGN post on the keyed switch, but seems like that is where it should go so back on it will go.
Verified that the rotor is pointing where it should be if the engine is at #1TDC. I tried to pull the LH valve cover, but it is so stuck on there that even a few blow with a rubber mallet wouldn't do the trick. So, I think the plan is to leave it, and pull the exhaust manifold tonight and check that the #1 exhaust valve is closed. Since the engine has sat since May, I looked under the oil cap and the tops of the rocker arms are pretty dry, so I will be pulling the dist. and using a drill to run the oil pump to get oil back up there before firing it up.

Rough wiring just zip tied to the battery for now.

Starter and alternator wired up per the directions on the Painless kit


And - I think I'm going to run a Mojave heater up under the center of the dash above the trans tunnel arch. Will have to make two holes in the firewall for the heater hoses.

Still chewing over whether I will be able to do/should do the initial startup with the Sniper, whether it will get any kind of reliable tach signal from the HEI if I don't get the crank trigger working.

 

For the gap on your tank strap, it should have a rubber spacer between the strap and tank. I used an old bicycle inner tube.