62 Cj5. The Miami Project.

Done with the tie rods. I will be aligning it when the time comes...
I installed the modified bellcrank (as per Mcruff brilliant idea) and it works like a charm! Rotates freely but no discernible play whatsoever.

 

I decided to improve the clutch/brake linkage contraption. Metalshaper has a very nice instructional video about it. I have been reproducing the cam-like parts to TIG to the shaft. I will post as soon as I have something finished. In the meantime, I decided to also improve the pivot point of the brake pedal, so I bored the pedal base to accept a needle roller bearing and I turned my worn brake shaft to match the ID and also to give it a fresh surface that was concentric to the center line of the shaft.

 

My clutch update. I am doing my own version of Metalshaper upgrade. Instead of 7/8 I am using a 3/4 shaft due to availability . I do not know if is going to work better, but it does look way more solid. Still need to fabricate the plate that holds it on the TC side.

 

Also, I decided to go electric on the fuel supply. The jeep came with an electric pump and a busted mechanical pump so I blocked the pump hole in the block.

 

So you'll be using electric wipers too? That vacuum wipers are nearly worthless anyway.
-Donny

 

Yep!

 

I have a question... since at this point I stopped assuming the PO used the right parts I question everything I encounter and check before I move on. As you can see above, I am upgrading the clutch linkage as per Metalshaper instructional videos. One of the issues I have is the proper length of the cams that are welded onto the bellcrank tube. The pics I see in KW and Morris show a part with equal cams and mine has two different sizes. The question is: are they supposed to be equal or is just the picture? If they are different which one is the long one? I am not moving forward until I know for sure, the length relationship between those two I am sure play a critical role in the proper releasing of the clutch.

 

I just measured mine, but take it with caution. Mine’s been broken and repaired several times, but the measurements should be close to factory.

The arm that goes to the pedal is ~2 7/8” from the center of the shaft to the center of the eye.
The arm that goes to the clutch is ~1 1/2” from the center of the shaft to the center of the eye.

The higher the offset between the measurements, the easier the clutch will be to push, but the more pedal travel will be needed. If they were equal lengths, you wouldn’t have much clutch control. Sort of an on/off situation.

 

Wow! Mine is 1 1/2" and 2". Maybe I should re-make the long one to match the 2 7/8" you have. What is your configuration? I have an F134 with a T90 and 8.5" clutch.

 

Let me go re-measure. It’s really hard to get in there; the exhaust passes between the tabs and my overkill crossmember is right in the way.....

Wow, I read the wrong side of the 2 on the caliper. Sorry.
It’s 1 7/8” not 2 7/8”. I’m glad I re-checked. I thought that sounded like a lot when I typed it.

And the tab up on the pedal pivot is a shy 2 1/2” C to C, if that matters to you.

Mine (F134) came with a T-90, but I just carried it over unchanged (just a lengthened rod) to the T18 conversion. Not sure about clutch size off the top of my head. The holes in the tabs have worn through several times and washers have been welded on, so maybe some dimensions changed slightly over the years, but it should be close.

Maybe others can check theirs too?

 

Thanks! That is a relief! It was a PITA to cut and grind those in stainless at that thickness! I will clock them same as the one I took out: the pedal tab at 6 o'clock and the clutch one at 10 o'clock.

 

Now I am having second thoughts about the positioning of the cams on the bellcrank. I read on another post that they have to be at 6 and 10 o'clock. Mine is different, at 6 and 1 o'clock. Does anyone have a pic or a visual confirmation on where should I weld the tabs/cams to the rod? Thanks!

 

I can check in a few hours if nobody gets to it first.

 

Thanks! No rush...

 

The one you are holding in your pic is what mine looks like. Hard to get a pic, but it’s enough to see.

 

Thanks! I will post a pic as soon as I finish welding the cams. I will copy mine as it sits.

 

There were several different bellcrank arms/configurations depending on the engine and transmission combination.
Someone (maybe oldtime) posted up 3 or 4 different bellcranks, and what their applications were. This was maybe in the past 6 months?
I know I have gotten the wrong bellcrank before, and it took me a while to figure out why the clutch just diddn't feel right.
-Donny

 

Now I am confused again...
I will weld it and see what happens.

 

I mocked up the final approach and it seems fine to me. Sometimes I think I tend to overanalyze things and get lost in the little details. Even though the bearing that goes inside the frame places the rod at a slight angle due to some interference, I think it has no significant impact in the performance of it.
I will probably shave some of the top section of the cast iron base of the bearing to reduce some of the offset.

 

That looks heavy duty.