Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by tripilio, Nov 6, 2018.
Using the Harbor freight spot weld drill. It works fine.
Does anyone know the name of this part and where to get one? Thanks!
Finished my battery tray repair!
Finished (to the best of my possibilities) the front axle. Painted and mounted. Sleeved the yoke and ring and pinion adjusted. All seals and bearings replaced. Let's see how it runs.
More random pics of random advances...
My front bumper!
BTW, it will be a while before I tackle the rear axle. I built a home made case spreader that works ok. If anyone is interested, I can loan it.
Classic Enterprise should have the fender well brace.
Jeep Restoration Parts - Classic Enterprises
Any idea how to remove the rear angle? I need to replace the back corner and the floor. Any help is appreciated.
Some great progress.
I have one I just removed and won't be using it. PM me if you're interested and we can figure it out.
Rear driveshaft. Before, sandblasted and finished!
Making my own jam nuts...
Trying out my tie rod end conversion. It looks fine from here!
Just completed the exact same knuckle restoration on my 61- cj 5. Went with grade 8 bolts and lock washers for the spindle and backing plate and made sure the length was not too long. I think the length was 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inches long. I put new spindle bushing in and the flange was too thick on the bushing and had to remove some of the flange thickness on the lathe and hone the inside in order for the axle to fit properly. If not the snap ring on the end of the axle will not go on. The snap ring is there to keep axle from moving in and out and to keep the hubs working properly. Some of the parts you get are not exactly the correct size and some modifications are necessary for everything to fit properly , as you have already found out. My front bearings that were sent to me were wrong size, ended up going to local parts house with originals and matched numbers. Good luck !
When I replaced all my sheet metal, wheel wells left and right, floor and right rear quarter. I left the angle in there. It is made of heavier metal and mine was not that bad. If I remember it will be a PITA to replace it.
So, you cut the sheet metal around it and then what, removed the rest behind the angle? I will keep the angle but the sheet metal around it is crappy, as you can see in the pic. Can you give me more details how you proceeded? Thanks!
Looking at my build thread, I had my tub in a rotisserie, that is why I did not want to replace the angle. With your tub on the frame it will be a challenge. I cut the metal from the angle and then cleaned up the angle and installed the new sheet metal. Get you some, metal stud framing screws (pan heads). Screw everything together before welding. Take measurements from metal that is staying, to the metal that will be removed so the new sheet metal will be located correctly. Take a marker and put a hash mark where you are measuring from so you will measure the new piece correct. I just wrote my measurements on the tub so I would have them.
Look on my build, 2nd page
Steve's 70 CJ5 Restore
Sometimes I feel that the more I do, the more I see that needs to be done. If I can successfully pass this hurdle of fixing the rear of the tub, I think I can complete this project successfully!
Dad always taught me to start the hardest part first. Looks like you are doing the same. You have a repair panel ot making your own? I used a few panels from Classic Enterprises and they were all very nice. They sell the rear floor. Not cheap but top notch quality and saved lots of time. I did not use their rear floor but Im sure they are nice.
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