Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Dne007, Sep 5, 2019.
This is the reason people out age have bad joints
OMG, that's the exact youtube video I was using!! my feet were kind of aching the next couple days! lol
An update on the power brake upgrade and starter motor. The vacuum generated by the engine is only like 11-12 inches and hopefully not enough to activate the power vacuum, so I got Rob to order this vaccum pump from Amazon which comes with a switch which activates the pump to come on and shut off(like an air compressor), I'm going to splice in a T to be able to attach a vacuum gauge, but the pump is supposed to generate 18-26 inches of vacuum. When it shuts off, I can go push the brake pedal a few times, then the pump kicks on and shuts off in about 8-10 seconds. I'm nervously anxious to see how this is going to help the brake power booster ~ but I'm still wiring stuff It's never going to end
This is the switch which tells the vacuum pump to come on and go off
We had mounted the pump in the left front fender near the radiator, but dumb me, didn't pay attention how flimsy the inner fender is and vibrated crazily, so we remounted it here on the frame. I had some 5/16 plate and fabbed it up to hold the pump. I'll be honest, it's still kind of loud, not terrible, but if it's too loud, may wind up making a box for it to insulate it. Won't know until we get it outside. I'm thinking to insulate the inside of the hood with a universal deadner designed for the hood.
The starter is an excellent upgrade, yes, a little trimming on the upper bolt hole was necessary but the engine turns over so nice now!!! No bendix kicking out too soon~ great!!!
I find this odd and don't understand why you would need the vacuum pump. Is the engine tuned properly? Ignition set correctly? Vacuum leak somewhere? Vales adjusted correctly? Cam timing correct? Unless you have something other than the stock cam or one or another of the items listed above, I would expect the engine should be producing somewhere around 16-18 inches of vacuum.
Yes, Ed, I thought so, that being said, I'm going to recheck everything again, now hind sight, maybe where I was checking the vac from the line going from the pvc. I'll check it directly at the base of the carburetor base. The valves were adjusted by the place the rebuilt the engine, I'd have to figure they adjusted them correctly? Then ignition timing is set at 10btc due to the suggestion by Pertronix electronic ignition, plugs set at .40, runs really good, but again, I'll recheck everything but not valves if can help it.
very nice! did use an allen head bolt for the top mount, or did you wrestle with the original bolt?
lol, I knew you were going to ask me that We were lazy and said, eh, let's just try it. With using a 6" snap-on wobble extension(not a universal joint) and a short 3/4" socket, it went in fine. Yes, an Allen would have been better~ hopefully we never have to pull the starter back off. I've only turned the engine over a few times as I have some wiring work to contend with, but we should be starting the engine today~ I'll update, but I'm sure it will be AWESOME! Still can't get over what a factory Willys starter goes for!
Ok starter is working great, now the engine~ I attached a vacuum gauge to the base of the carburetor. Running the engine at idle, adjusting the idle mixture until I have the highest reading, and this is what I get. I rechecked the timing and I have it at 10 BTD, I'll have to recheck the means in checking the timing, but on the timing cover is apparent where the mark on the balancer is to go on a stock points type ignition. It idles smoothly, revs nicely, but out on the open road is a dog, no power. I was looking towards the tires, but something is wrong as the vacuum readings are poor. The engine is rebuilt, new sleeves, valve job, but I'll be honest, I keep smelling anti-freeze, just a whiff. Was blaming in on spilt, but it's had time to burn/wear off. Those who have been with me know about the "water" which was in an exhaust port, but magnaflux found nothing. I was disappointed when Rob told me they found nothing at the machine shop other than a suspicious head gasket.
I'm going to recheck things tomorrow, pull the spark plugs for one and make sure there's no coolant presesnt, however tomorrow or Saturday my jeep should be coming in
As for the vacuum booster that I put in, it works great and the brakes work very well as long as one doesn't keep applying the brake over n over again. The little pump is not noticeable when driving along or even at idle, so it's ok.
However, after reading this~ I think the jeep is maybe doing ok. As driving it today, I was lucky to hit 45mph against a very strong North wind, and increased going the other direction. Just that putting the pedal to the floor at 45mph did nothing! lol
In the meantime~ I suspected the PCV valve being the culprit in the off vacuum findings. I did some tests and sure enough, the PCV valve was acting like a massive vacuum leak. I'm ordering a new one, but I modified the current one and wound up with normal Vacuum readings. Didn't really make the 134 run stronger; I think the tires are robbing some of the top end, but it's still a hoot to drive
Let's talk about transfer case and transmission leaks I know it's said "if it's not leaking; it's out of oil", something like that. Well, you know those large pins which go through the case? and kind of the same on the transfer case? Both(front/rear) of those spots are leaking like, not crazy, but enough to catch my attention. I've told my brother~ let's pull the trans/transfer back out~ he doesn't really want to do that, so how much of a leak is too much? And hindsight, should I have sealed the ends of those shafts/rods with sealant during assembly?
you guys rock ya know
If you search d18 leak fixes you will find lots of areas that need special attention. Steve’s d18 was bought from a known and recommended builder.... it leaked. I had my d18 rebuilt by the most well known builder and it leaked.... I flattened pan flange, sealed shims, sealed splines, sealed speedo output, double seals in both output shafts. I have a small engine oil leak, but my d18 never leaked a drop after that.
When I changed to a d20 from the same well known builder it leaked assembly lube in transport....
I tore it apart and gave it the same treatment as the d18. Zero leaks from tcase after a year.
Thank you Kyle~ I posed the question to Rob, "let's pull the transmission/TC &pto back out to inspect/reseal and do a better job. He's not excited about it, but I don't see it as a terrible task. I put the trans/tc/pto by myself, but that without a Tub.
In a simpler way of pulling it back out. Is it best to separate the TC from the transmission, or just pull it ALL at once. I have his jeep on my 4 post lift right now so it should be much "easier". I do know about supporting the heavy F134, may fab up some kind of support for that. I wouldn't mind buying a lesser expensive transmission jack, one on eBay for a little over a hundred.
A++ 1100LBS 2 Stage Hydraulic Transmission Jack 360° Swivel Wheels For Car Lift | eBay
I have asked him so many times to join in on "his" build, just don't understand why he doesn't want to join in on the fun!
I’m just down the road in Katy and bought a HF transmission jack last year for my D20 rebuild. You’re welcome to borrow it. Your builds are great follows and keep me encouraged!
Darn, I was looking for you on the wrong thread! I'm going batty I just know it! Thank you for the compliment! now are you talking about the floor style transmission jack? I cannot do the laying on a creeper anymore, I get dizzy as hell! I haven't convinced my brother that he and I are going to pull his trans~ I'd rather not and he can put some cardboard under his jeep. kidding, I bet I could have the trans n stuff out in a couple hours
Yeah, it’s a short one. The tall one looks scary!
Pretty sure I’d drop something on my head.
Rob's jeep hasn't left yet due to:
1) oil pan is leaking, apparently a spot weld/s have come undone for the skid plate, or something, and is leaking. I can pull down on the back of the oil pan skid plate and it pulls down an inch or so. (probably easy enough fix)
2) One of the ears to bolt the transmission to the bell housing is cracked(It wasn't me!)(not all the way through), but leaking(seeping) 90wt. It's the right lower hole as sitting in the jeep. In the beginning, noticed a lot of gear oil, just thought it was the front seal; guess not
3) I'm sure there's something else, oh the shaft in the transfer case, the one you can see front and back of the TC seeps a little more than I care to see.
Guess that's it for now
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