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62 Cj5 Four Cylinder Power Steering Conversion Help

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 05rider, Nov 27, 2019.

  1. Nov 27, 2019
    05rider

    05rider New Member

    Northeast Ohio
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    So I have been trolling here for several years and have learned a lot. To me half the fun of the old 62 CJ5 is the problem solving and this site has been great at that.

    So here is where I am. My 62 CJ5 runs very well, I have been through the front end (mostly) and can cruise at 45mph pretty smooth (hey it is still and old jeep) with little vibration or wandering. And that is fast enough for me. BUT I would like to convert t to power steering because of my bad right arm, 31 x 10.5 x 15 tires, and it takes two men and a boy to steer at slow speeds like parking or turning around in the woods. Now through this site I have a pretty good handle on the parts needed (but suggestions are very welcome), but all the threads I have researched here and at other sites all seem to be with a V6 or other aftermarket engine.

    Even Hermes does not offer the power Saginaw on the original 4 banger. I hope someone can provide some suggestions, needed parts, and problems I might run into.

    One other question if I go with the manual Saginaw is that going to help with the slow speed turning effort?

    Thanks.
     
  2. Nov 27, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    I think the main issue is where to put the power steering pump. AFAIK it's no different from any other early CJ with regards to installation of the steering gear. If you search, it's been covered before, maybe in regards to electric power steering? I'd think the electric pump would be good for this application, since the parasitic load of a mechanical pump could be significant for the under-powered F134. Plus there's no passenger car you can rob to get the brackets to fit the F134.
     
  3. Nov 27, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    Yes...but it's still manual steering.
    The only real difference between the 4 cylinder and V6 PS conversion would be brackets and pulleys. You'll have to build a custom bracket for the 4banger.
     
  4. Nov 27, 2019
    sgogpn

    sgogpn From the top of Lions Back... 2022 Sponsor

    Glendale, AZ.
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    From my own experience with a manual saginaw and and Lhead I can tell you that with 750x16 tires i can steer it with 1 finger when the tires are at street pressure. Its not much more difficult when the tires are aired down and in low range, and I even have a Powerlock up front.

    There are guys who have put power steering on the L/F head; they have just had to make their own mounting bracket for the pump. The couple that I have seen mounted the power steering pump above the fuel pump.
    As far as the thought concerning the parasitic load of a power steering pump being applied to the L/F head being a detractor; the factory didn't consider the hydraulic pump used for the 3 point hitch too much of a parasitic load and a power steering pump is really nothing more than a small hydraulic pump. This is only speculation on my part but I would even go as far to say that the power steering pump would generally see less of a load than the 3 point hitch would.

    I also would be interested to learn how well an electric pump would work in our application.

    Let us know how it turns out for you.

    FWIW,
    Mike
     
  5. Nov 27, 2019
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    Don't overlook the 2 hole knuckle conversion to the right front knuckle.
    That and manual saginaw would be an option as well.
     
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  6. Nov 27, 2019
    05rider

    05rider New Member

    Northeast Ohio
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    Ok I have to research that as I don't know about that.
     
  7. Nov 27, 2019
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    In a nutshell, it's a one piece tie rod conversion.
    The knuckle has two holes for tie rod ends.
    With the longer arm, the outer most hole gives you a lot more leverage.
    Popular conversion back in the day.
     
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  8. Nov 28, 2019
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    I’d highly recommend power steering if you have the mechanical ability. I’ve run a pump on mine without issue forever. It powers my plow hydraulics too. The supposed drag on the engine is a nonissue. Mine is mounted on the passenger’s side off of two of the head bolts and a third point that I can’t remember. You can sorta see its location in this post.
    Snow Plow Redo

    I can get better pics if you want.
     
    Twin2 likes this.
  9. Nov 28, 2019
    garage gnome

    garage gnome ECJ5 welder

    Western MA
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  10. Nov 28, 2019
    05rider

    05rider New Member

    Northeast Ohio
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    Very good information here just what I was looking for. Thank you. If possible could you send pictures of the steering column linkage from the firewall through to the pump. Thanks .
     
  11. Nov 28, 2019
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    Without stating the obvious, are you still running the original diameter Sheller steering wheel? The large diameter usually makes steering effort pretty easy, but a smaller diameter aftermarket wheel can be a lot of effort to muscle around.
    As mentioned above, a manual Saginaw box can be an improvement over the Ross box, and is a lot less complicated than mounting a pump.
    -Donny
     
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  12. Nov 28, 2019
    Jrobz23

    Jrobz23 Member

    Northern, WI
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    Can you run PS off the hylo pump? Seems like you should be able too.
     
  13. Nov 28, 2019
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    As far as the steering shaft routing goes, mine isn’t worth posting. Not much is factory in my engine bay, and the frame is heavily modified around the box. You’d probably find better examples in the power steering thread.

    Here’s my pump mount. There’s a plate that extends from the two RF head bolts down to the hole where the dipstick tube bolts to, then the pump mount is separate and bolts to the top part, and the slotted adjuster bolts to the bottom.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. Nov 28, 2019
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    That's a double capacity reservoir right there....
     
  15. Nov 28, 2019
    05rider

    05rider New Member

    Northeast Ohio
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    I can see the advantage to that, but I don't have a two hole knuckle. Dana 25/27.
     
  16. Nov 28, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    You can get one. They came on some of the Willys trucks and wagons. I did this on mine with a Dana 27, & it made a noticeable improvment in steering effort.
     
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  17. Nov 29, 2019
    jeepstar

    jeepstar Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sheboygan
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    If you cant find one, you can get a tie rod end with two holes
     
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  18. Nov 29, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    This won't reduce steering effort though. The 2 hole knuckle gives you reduced steering effort because the drag link attachment point is farther from the pivot point, giving you increased leverage. The trade off is slightly slower steering, but I think it's a worthwhile trade-off. I've been running a manual Saginaw with a 1 piece tie rod & 2 hole knuckle for several years now, & it works pretty well.
     
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  19. Nov 29, 2019
    Jrobz23

    Jrobz23 Member

    Northern, WI
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    Compared to stock central pivot point and dual tie rod setup? I'd think a TRE, with the hole for the drag link's TRE, should give you most of the benefit of a dual hole knuckle and be far easier to obtain.
     
  20. Nov 29, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    I added the two hole knuckle to my Jeep, without making any other changes. While it's a far cry from power steering, it did make a noticeable reduction in steering effort, and also reduced bump steer.
    YMMV
     
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