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'57 CJ5: Updating The Old School

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by AlexCold, May 28, 2016.

  1. Oct 4, 2016
    GeoffreyL

    GeoffreyL Well-Known Member

    moorestown, nj
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    I have 33's on my stock 5 and they fit with no lift, now, that is going down an asphalt road with no flex, any flex and I'm done. But it does not rub. I have a 3.5" kit to go on when I get around to it.
     
  2. Nov 7, 2016
    AlexCold

    AlexCold Member

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    Update time.

    Been working on the CJ a ton this last week. Finally cleaned all the transfercase/trans bits and am ready for a rebuild as soon as I mock up the drivetrain.

    This adapter is unique, It doesn't look completely homemade, but it's not a shop piece either. Early prototype for AA? I can't really tell. Or maybe someone's attempt at a copy. The pockets have evidence of being cast in and not machined out.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The other weird thing is that I noticed some grinding inside the case. Possible TeraFlex low gears? I haven't done the math on the teeth yet.

    [​IMG]

    I removed the front end including the steering box. There's some booty fab on the front frame horns that I'm going to have to replace. I'm just not 100% sure where to start. There's no reason to keep them as they are, so I'm thinking of cutting them off at the right of the cross-member and putting in 2x4 tube going forward. But I could also cut the left of the cross-member and starting from there and build a new cross-member. Any ideas?

    [​IMG]

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    Also finished the boxing of the frame middle so it's ready for a trans cross-member. I mocked up the trans/tcase and found that I need to go up 2.5" to have a much flatter belly. This means new engine frame mounts!
     
  3. Nov 19, 2016
    AlexCold

    AlexCold Member

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    Welp, I've put in some significant time into the jeep lately. It really is slow going when you're by yourself.

    Redid the front frame horns with 2x3x.120 wall tube.

    Then I went to town removing the engine mounts and getting the engine and trans into position. Ended with the assembly sitting 5 degrees tilted back which sets the carb flange level. The engine does sit tilted to the driver side 3.5 degrees. Whatever I did to try to get it to 0 caused all the other measurements to suffer.

    As it sits now. Just need to drill some holes on the frames for bolts and nut access and the trans crossmember is done. Remove it all and install the guts to the trans and tcase.

    [​IMG]

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    Nice nearly flat belly.
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    Need to figure out a Ford clutch disc to use. The one I removed was a 10" unit which I was not expecting. I wonder if I can just use a 10.5 discs and pressure plate on my flywheel.

    After that I focus on the front axle!





    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
     
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  4. Nov 20, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    Your Motor / Transmission seems to be mounted High in relationship to the chassis..........I understand your desire to gain a flatter belly , but you do give up COG and I would guess both your drive lines may also have increased angles....Not trying to change your mind just saying the height can change other things like clutch linkage, air cleaner & exhaust clearance and the transmission cover may also need modification.
     
  5. Nov 20, 2016
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    As the motor mounts are not the same, you might swap side to side to see if that might level the engine.
     
  6. Nov 20, 2016
    AlexCold

    AlexCold Member

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    Yeah, we thought about that but we're hoping that keeping the overall height of the jeep low will compensate for that. So far the exhaust clearance looks good, air cleaner should work and the there's no floor in the jeep so we're "good" for now.

    Played with that and it didn't make a difference. So we decided not to fight it.
     
  7. Dec 22, 2016
    AlexCold

    AlexCold Member

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    Quick update!

    Transmission has been rebuilt with the Novak kit. Definitely a 2 man job, to keep things together.

    I refreshed the transfer case with new bearings and seals, definitely a learning experience but not overly difficult. Extra bonus, it has 3:15 gears!! Hello ~88:1 crawl ratio!!

    Does anyone know what the best option would be for a clutch and pressure plate?

    The input spline is 1.063 and 10T, so I think the 10.5" friction plate from a 78 CJ5 with the T18 would work since it is a 1.063" and 10T, but I don't think the pressure plate will also work. I was thinking a 10.5" pressure plate from a Buick Skylark with the V6 could work. Any thoughts?
     
  8. Jan 6, 2017
    AlexCold

    AlexCold Member

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    Slowly but surely I'm making progress on the floor. Serious pain in the but that body work is.

    Cut out the rot in the rockers and added some beef. Found at least a .25" of bondo in the front corners from previous damage. At least the old guy used his jeep!

    [​IMG]

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    Working on floor structure.

    [​IMG]

    I can't drill a straight hole through tube to save my life. I need a drill press....

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
     
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  9. Jan 30, 2017
    AlexCold

    AlexCold Member

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    Things take twice as long to do. I mentor a a FIRST Robotics team for a local high school, so that takes most of my afternoon away so I just have a few hours during the week and the weekends.

    I've bent the floor pans at the school and drilled a billion holes for spot welds. It's all made from 16g steel.

    [​IMG]

    Still need to do the other side.

    [​IMG]

    Prior to this the trans and tcase was installed. The hydraulic clutch all fit. I'm using the same internal slave as Meiser. I had to use 3' long feed and bleed lines. I hope I don't need longer!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The shifter is already bent to clear the dash, but it's so long that 1st and 2nd cause the shifter to run into the steering wheel. A little cut and rotate will take care of that. Or a smaller wheel...hmmm.

    Next step is to make a temp mount for the driver seat to figure my preferred pedal position.

    The new goal is to be done by March 4th for a local car show. It's a fairly big show for this corner of the Southwest.

    The red paint was my son's idea. I was looking to do something sand colored to see oil leaks easily but he wanted something more bold. Reds better the gold he also suggested!

    Still trying to figure out what to do for a fuel tank. It needs to be bed mounted since I don't want to cure anymore crossmember from the rear of the frame. But I also need to fit a third seat location for my son. Does anyone have any suggestions?
     
  10. Jan 30, 2017
    AlexCold

    AlexCold Member

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    OPTION 1: One of the fuel tank options I've been looking at is buying one of these and adding a sump for the manual pump. Since it will be in the bed I could build his seat ahead of the tank and make a false floor to provide a barrier from and him.

    [​IMG]

    This tank is 30"x17"x7" high. That gives me about 13" to fit his seat. Not sure if that's enough.

    OPTION 2: I could also do the standard RCI tank which is 30"x9"x12" high. This would eat all the potential bed space.

    [​IMG]

    Or option 3: Build a custom tank that takes up all the bed floor but is only a few inches tall and build a false floor.

    All of these options are in the 15-17 gallon range.
     
  11. Jan 30, 2017
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    Looking good.

    I'm personally not a huge fan of a fuel tank in the bed. Space is so limited as it is, it hurts to give up precious real estate to that. Plus there's the added lift of COG, and of course the safety issues.... A minor rear-end collision would be a difference in gas sprayed under the cab vs. inside the cab.
    Is there no possible way to fit one underneath?
     
  12. Jan 30, 2017
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Northern California
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    I would find a way to put a custom tank underneath. Tank in the bed of a jeep= major turn off in my opinion.
     
  13. Jan 31, 2017
    AlexCold

    AlexCold Member

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    I totally agree with you both. If I do it, there will be a false floor (bulkhead) in place to separate the two. To do a tank underneath, I'd need to do some serious cutting of cross-members, at which point I would further be pissed I didn't just build a new frame. Really divided here.
     
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  14. Jan 31, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    If you absolutely had to stick it in the bed..........of which I am also not overly fond of..........a fuel cell with a bladder inside would be the only way I would do that , along with some structural bracing around it to resist any impact.........below the floor / body is at best only marginally safer depending on the fuel tank , installation and whatever shield & bracing one might add.
     
  15. Feb 1, 2017
    AlexCold

    AlexCold Member

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    That would also be my preference, but unfortunately there isn't enough room while also trying to fit a third seat. I think for now, I'm going to do the simplest solution which will be the standard RCI tall tank. I'm not too worried about cargo room since I have a bed extender for any long range treks, and if it's just me and my son, I'll have the where his seat would normally go. For trips on my own, like to Moab, I'll remove his seat and have quite a bit of space for things (plus a bed extender). Not the best solution, but one that minimizes time waste. Eventually I'll build a new, stronger frame and make sure to integrate a tank between the frame rails.
     
  16. Feb 1, 2017
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    Although perhaps temporary.........build some decent protection around that tank and make sure you have a roll over check valve and also vent that to the outside......
     
  17. Feb 5, 2017
    AlexCold

    AlexCold Member

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    Yessir definitely a priority there. I've been looking at some mount designs and the cage will have crossbars to reduce damage to this area.

    Been working on the jeep every moment I have, slowly chipping away at the list.

    [​IMG]

    Installed the pedal assembly from Speedway. It's all made from 1/4" so it's a heavy SOB. I used 1/8" plate to stiffen the firewall in this area. Really wish I had a plasma table.

    After that, I got really tired of drilling holes in awkward positions, so I welded these clevis mounts from Ruff Stuff. Super beefy! I beveled the edges to be welded and burned them in. The only thing that would make these cooler would be to integrate a hook into them as well. Hmmm business idea?

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Feb 5, 2017
    AlexCold

    AlexCold Member

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    Doing a little CAD today before the Super Bowl.

    [​IMG]

    Took me forever to get to that point and realize that I wasn't going to get a multi-planar panel perfect at home with one piece. So I did two halves connected via a step.

    Here's your previous attempt on the passenger side.
    [​IMG]

    On the finished product is should have enough room for the tire. It will be close.

    [​IMG]

    Hopefully get that done this week and have fuel parts ordered.
     
  19. Feb 6, 2017
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    Nice progress... Beefy is right!

    Please show the fab steps to your wheel well notch.
     
  20. Feb 6, 2017
    AlexCold

    AlexCold Member

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    Thanks. I'll try to. I'm terrible at stopping and taking pictures of what I'm doing.
     
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