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5.9 Magnum In The Cjtj

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by 1947cj2a, Dec 23, 2017.

  1. Jan 30, 2018
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    Back from my little work trip, and I was able to get more things taken care off. Currently waiting for the build your own exhaust parts to come in and the Novak transfercase cable shifter. This should just about complete the build. After that is the center counsel build and suspension spring swaps to get it to sit just right.

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    First I needed to see if the rear end and the engine transmission line up some what true. So what I did was drop a plumb bob to the floor and made some marks from there I snapped a line to see where the rear end sat. The marks were made from the front main pully on the engine and the transfercase out put shaft. The third mark and the one circled in red is the rear end input yoke. This told me that I had to push the transfercase to the driver side about 1/2". With this done I was able to build the transmission mount.

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    I am having some issues with my old ESAB Mig welder. Dont know if I want to send it back to get it reparied again or just bite the built and buy a newer unit. The feed isnt working out to well and it keeps wanting to burn back into the gun. But the new transmission mount is done.

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    While I wait for parts I took the 9" Third member out. I first built this about 10 years ago and it lived behind the 2.5L just fine. but since its seeing more power now I wanted to make sure it was good to go. Its a nodular case, with a 35 spline detroit locker.

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    I really bad picture, but most everything is done. The only thing left is to convert the AC compressor into an air compressor unit. and hook up the intake and air cleaner box.

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    Its starting to look like a jeep again!
     
    Danefraz, 47v6, Muzikp and 1 other person like this.
  2. Jan 30, 2018
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    That is going to be a beast with that motor...Nice work! :bow:
     
  3. Feb 2, 2018
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    Thanks Focker, I cant wait to take it for a spin. Its been a fun little project, I just hope I dont miss out on the snow season this year.

    On a side note, I have another work trip coming up this sunday. This time to Detroit, so trying to get as much done as possible.

    Parts came in and it looks like the Novak cable shifter will need some work to get it to fit. I called them today and was told that they dont have anything for a jeep with a NV4500. The issue is some clearance between the bracket that goes on the transmission and some bosses that the transmission has. Some work with the die grinder and a bir bit should get it to work so not a big worry.

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    I started off with the on board air. After spending some time looking around for mounting my manifold with the safety pop off valve, auto on off switch, gauge, air in and air out I decided on the bracket that holds the charcoal canister. I drilled and tapped two holes for an M6 SHCS and installed it.
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    It fits pretty well, I am having some issues with activating the AC compressor so I will have to investigate further. Its the same set up I had on the old 2.5L AC unit so it should work. It might be the compressor itself.
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    Went to the local yard and picked up an air intake from a 1998 Dodge Durango with a 5.2L. The top of the air cleaner box fits but the hold down clips dont work to well. Currently they are just safety wired closed to hold the top down
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    Started on the exhaust, I cut the factory dodge Y pipe and took about 1.5" from the collector area to gain some clearance for the upper control arm and to bring it closer to the transmission to tuck it up nice and tight.
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    From there I had to install the muffler in some way that will gain clearance befefore I could start tying in the rest of the exhaust. I reinstalled the skid plate and placed random bits of wood and steel to rotate the muffler in such a way that will clear and not rattle. The muffler is a Flowmaster 50 series. The rear suspension of the jeep is a triangulated 4 link so some snaking around is required.
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    The front looking back. Next is to tie in the Y pipe back together and into the exhaust. I am using a slip fit exhaust system with wide band clamps. This should allow me to take it apart if any maintenance is required in the future. I opted out for the more expansive wide clamps to keep the metal from pinching making future removal futile.
     
    Muzikp and 47v6 like this.
  4. Feb 3, 2018
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
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    This is such a cool project. That exhaust is a tight fit. I thought mine was tight but now that I see this, obviuosly I had a lot of room to spare. Are you worried about the heat on the tub or frame at all? I was considering making a couple heat shields for mine but not sure how much I should worry about it.
     
    47v6 likes this.
  5. Feb 3, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    My exhaust makes my floor pans pretty hot. I make my sons wear real shoes when they ride in it.

    I agree that this is a great project!
     
  6. Feb 3, 2018
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    I could of gotten a smaller muffler like a glass pack, but I want the jeep to be some what quite. So I opted for a none straight through muffler. Not to worried about the frame but diffidently a little concerned about the tub. I will see how bad it gets, if need be I can tack weld some sort of heat shield to the muffler.

    I have also realized that I might be over my head on the exhaust build, and it might be worth my time to take it in and have it professionally built.
     
  7. Feb 3, 2018
    y2k-fxst

    y2k-fxst Member

    North English,IA
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    How old is your liner in your MIG gun? When they get older/dirty they will increase drag. What kind of condition are your rollers in? Also make sure they are the right rollers for the size of wire being ran, have seen that happen before. Also how is the tension on your rollers set? If your running hard wire, start with the rollers loose. With a heavy welding glove on the wire will stop moving when the wire is against the glove, increase roller tension until the wire will feed and coil in your palm.

    Unless your feeding problem is a bad connection inside the machine, have seen bad switches in the MIG gun also. A bad switch can be fixed or replaced.

    The smaller the wire the more feed problems you will encounter also. And, I've had problems with 0.023" wire feeding just because of how tight the bends in my lead are.
     
  8. Feb 3, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I have an old Airco dip pack 220. Its a rebadged ESAB from the 80's. It has a Bernard gun. Used 90* twist tips. I also sometimes have burn back issues as well. When I have issues I replace the tip and it generally goes away. Liners and parts are not off the shelf for this old stuff. Welder is decent though. Big! 60% duty cycle at 200 amps!
     
  9. Feb 3, 2018
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    I am running 0.045 duel shield, the gun is a newer Tweco unit. I will have to check out the roller condition, but I did notice that the wire some times stops moving. I didnt notice if the rollers continued to spin or if the whole thing just cut out. Also it gets a bit jerky, it goes nice and smooth then slows down then speeds back up. This was even with the gun and lead laid out nice and straight to take bends out of the equation.

    Yes its been a fun little project, and honestly a pretty easy one. One of the biggest advantages of the Magnum engine is that I can keep my factory fuel pump and gauges. Everything works like it should. It was a little difficult finding a truck with a manual transmission. But a Dakota with the 5.2 and NV3500 will also work and those are a little easier to locate.
     
  10. Feb 3, 2018
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
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    If you are over your head on exhaust then I really shouldn't have done mine. You got mad skillz, you got this. It was probably the most difficult thing I've done yet on mine but I learned a lot, and the next time I do it it will be soooo much easier.
     
  11. Feb 3, 2018
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    Thanks, I might give it another shot when I come back. But where getting into that busy time of year with work and I have some house projects that need to get wrapped up. I guess I will see how busy I get, I am also itching to start on my '47 2A. Never enough time.
     
  12. Feb 3, 2018
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    I would also like to add, that the Novak cable shifter works really well. Will see how it holds up to the elements but so far really happy with the way it shifts.

    got around to the center counsel. I actually just modified my old one. Cut out part of it in the center to clear the shifter. From there I made a tamplate, bought some 24 GA steel and bent it to shape. I also made a little side pocket so I can throw my wallet and cell phone.

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  13. Feb 3, 2018
    y2k-fxst

    y2k-fxst Member

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    Also are you running knurled rollers? They are preferred for reliable feeding of flux core and dual shield wire, V-grove rollers are for solid/hard wire, and U-grove rollers are for aluminum.
     
  14. Feb 3, 2018
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    I was not aware, it still has the V groove rollers. Its set up up for either 0.035 and 0.045 depending on how you flip them. I will have to try and locate some knurled rollers when I get back
     
  15. Feb 3, 2018
    y2k-fxst

    y2k-fxst Member

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    Learn a lot of different things welding production for 19 years. Definitely cheaper to try a different set of rollers than replace a machine.
     
    1947cj2a likes this.
  16. Mar 6, 2018
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    All back from the work trip. All I can say is I dont know how people put up with the rust in Detroit.

    Anyway, I had a buddy come over and help me build the exhaust, the jeep is all done now. Except for the Fuel gauge and Speedo not working, I have a feeling its a wiring issue as they worked before and I am using my old transfercase. The fuel pump works so need some looking into. Also throwing a P1495/2 codes which are battery temp sensor and Evap not connected, once again I have never thrown those codes so it must be related to the harness some where. So basiclly just little stuff.

    Short clip below of it running

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    On a side note, I finally got my carters back. One is going into the 5 and the other is for my 2A. I dont mind the solex units but I like how everything just bolts up as it should with the factory stuff.

    Quality is a little off, I tried to prop up the phone but the surface wasnt very good. Also everything kind of echos around the garage. The plan is to tow it down to EJS this year so I should be able to get better videos then.

     
    jeepstar and 73 cj5 like this.
  17. Mar 10, 2018
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    So I have to leave again for work this time to OH thats tomorrow. then I come back for a day then off to India for about 6 days. I come back 2 days before Moab. The good news is that I was able to figure all the issues out. the thing is I might not have enough time to change out springs.
    Anyway here's what I found

    The fuel gauge, speedo were not working and it was throwing a Bat temp code (p1492) as well as the evap code (p1495)
    The issue was that I am using the dodge O2 sensors so I had cut out the jeep O2 sensors out. However I did not splice in the signal wire from the jeep harness to the dodge harness.
    [​IMG]
    Its the k167 wire BR and YL.
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    Found the wire and checked if it did the trick. It did! Success.
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    This actually took a lot of time to figure out as I had continuity and supply volts everywhere. Now everything works as it should.

    The evap code was figured out as well. It turns out that some time in 99 or 00 they switched to a pressurized fuel tank. well my '98 jeep does not have this. This was figured out by using a friends 5.2L computer from an older truck, he had a spare from his engine swap. The code went away but it will not run the the 5.9L engine at all. So going to run as is for now.

    The other issue I got was that the engine developed a ticking sound shortly after it was fired up. once I figured out the electrical i jumped into the noise issue. It turns out that a lifter had collapsed. As it sits this AM.
    [​IMG]
    loose rocker.
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    all apart
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    the culprit!
    So off to order a new set of lifters. hopefully I can put it back together when I come back from OH. I have a day before I leave for India. If something else comes up I am taking putting the 5 on the trailer and taking that instead!
     
  18. Mar 10, 2018
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    I really like the sound...It's a beast! :clap:
    My Jeep throws 2 codes...Once in the summer "Too Hot" and again in the winter "Too Cold".
     
    Danefraz likes this.
  19. Mar 10, 2018
    1947cj2a

    1947cj2a Member

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    It should sound even better with all cylinders firing off!!
    Thanks, the 50 series flowmaster produced a nice sound
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2018
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