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AMC 304 Intake manifold

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Dana, Mar 1, 2007.

  1. Mar 1, 2007
    Dana

    Dana Think Pink

    Jamaica Beach, Texas
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    About to put an Edelbrock #2131 on a '73 non EGR 304 V8. The Edelbrock instructions are somewhat generic. They talk about a lifter valley heat shield on the bottom of some stock manifolds. Does anyone know if mine would have this? The primary purpose appears to assist a PVC valve function. I realize I'll need a new oil fill tube, hardware, intake manifold gasket and RTV... anything else? Any hints about past experiences doing this project to make it go smoother? Is getting the distributor out going to be a pain in the keister ?
     
  2. Mar 1, 2007
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    this is all from a fuzzy memory bank
    the factory metal intake gasket was a pan design, covering the lifter gallery.
    you want vapors only, not excessive oil to be drawn up and out through the PCV opening.
    can't help on your specific manifold question, though I seem to recall the manifolds having that metal shield as well.
     
  3. Mar 1, 2007
    LostDawg

    LostDawg Slowly rusting in the NW

    Longview, WA
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    I've got the Eddy manifold too, but did not install it (PO did). I can't answer your valley pan Q. but I do know from experience the distro was very easy to remove/install.
     
  4. Mar 1, 2007
    Dana

    Dana Think Pink

    Jamaica Beach, Texas
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    thats the only part that makes me alitttle nervous is pulling that out and getting it back in okay.
     
  5. Mar 1, 2007
    LostDawg

    LostDawg Slowly rusting in the NW

    Longview, WA
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    The manifold swap should be fairly straight forward. As you anticipate, you'll want the oil fill tube, gaskets, etc. I think I remember reading somewhere that you may need to reshape the pan a little, but that it wasn't difficult. The distributor is simple to pull, just have #1 cylinder at TDC, note where the rotor is pointed and mark (I used tape and marker), remove the hold-down nut and clip after removing all the pertinate wires and hoses and cap, and gently pull up, the rotor will turn (clockwise/counterclockwise?) as you pull it out. Look into the hole and see which direction the oiler slot is pointing, so that when you install the new manifold and things move, you have a reference point.:D Also note where the rotor pointed when came out at the end, then you can start there when you reinstall. Installation is reverse, the reason you made a mark for where the rotor was pointed is so you don't skip a tooth on reinstall and throw your timing off, and so it slides into the oiler slot. I got lucky and only had to try 3 times to get it right!
    Sorry for the ramble, I'm told I talk this way too!R) :rofl:
    Good luck. :beer: :beer:
     
  6. Mar 1, 2007
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hickory, Pa
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    When I removed my stock manifold (2bbl) to replace it with a 360 4bbl I tossed the pan gasket, and used a Mister Gasket/fel-pro set. pcv valve has not given me any problems. I have been using the same type gasket in all my rebuilds since.
    I tossed the pan style gasket in 1980 when I did my 1st rebuild.

    Jay
     
  7. Mar 2, 2007
    JeepTherapy

    JeepTherapy Sponsor

    Negaunee, Michigan
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    You will also want to make sure when you put the bolts back in that you put some RTV on the threads. I didn't last intake I put on and I still have anti freeze seeping past the bolts. I have found with the AMC intakes that if your not very careful when you set them on the gasket they leak. Just make sure when you set it down on the heads it is straight. Use the gasket sealer as they recommend in the gasket set instructions. I use spray tack or something like that on the intake ports and RTV on the water ports. Keep your RTV neat, use plenty but don't goob it.

    Has been a lot of years since I dealt with the edelbrock. But the heat shield they speak of is attached to the bottom of the intake with these little drive in rivet lookin things. When you get your old intake off, flip it over and you will see exactly what they are talking about. I don't have any intake pictures I don't think. I will look and post them if I do.

    Just take your time and make sure the gasket is lined up right and you don't slide the gasket out of place when you set the manifold on it. The bolt holes on the gasket (metal valley pan gasket is what you want) have indentations to hold them in place.
     
  8. Mar 2, 2007
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    gob of goop = goob? :D
     
  9. Mar 2, 2007
    Dana

    Dana Think Pink

    Jamaica Beach, Texas
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    This is exactly the info I need, thanks to all. Is there a marking somewhere to let me know when I'm TDC? If the valve covers are off is there a tell-tale? I'm kind of use to 7' dia open flywheels, not so used to automotive.
     
  10. Mar 2, 2007
    SwampRatt

    SwampRatt 1973 CJ-5

    Naperville, Illinois
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    Pull the plug and stick a stick in the hole. when you turn the engine over you are at TDC when the stick doesn't move any higher. I suppose then you watch the valves to see who is open or is going to open to determine if it is a compression or exhaust stroke.
     
  11. Mar 2, 2007
    LarryD

    LarryD Member

    Gallup NM/ 4 Corners
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    I'm no expert but my understanding of the valley pan gasket is the purpose is to keep hot oil from splashing onto the undreside of the intake manidfold keeping it cooler giving cooler denser fuel. I recently did a valve job on my 75 304 and it was there. the hardest thing was getting the manifold inplace while lining up the valley pan and the front and rear rubber gasket. The instructions mentioned using RTV sealer in place of the rubber gaskets and I finally went that way. you don't need to remove the distributor on a V8 AMC, and I woldn't just to change the intake. It's just one more thing to worry about when getting it back together and running.
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2007
  12. Mar 2, 2007
    LarryD

    LarryD Member

    Gallup NM/ 4 Corners
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    Dana, after rereading your original post I realised you were not asking about the valley pan gasket but about the manifold itself. In my case my manifold did have some thin metal attached to the underside of the cast iron manifold. I assumed it was stock and didn't remove it. since I havn't replaced the stock manifold with aftermarket I don't know if you need it or not.
     
  13. Mar 2, 2007
    JeepTherapy

    JeepTherapy Sponsor

    Negaunee, Michigan
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    right, thanks for translating :)
     
  14. Mar 2, 2007
    Dana

    Dana Think Pink

    Jamaica Beach, Texas
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    I'm a much happier camper knowing the distributor doesn't HAVE to come out at all- though i like the stick trick and will use that in the future when i eventually change distributors. I'm even kind of looking forward to this project now. My last step before roadworthiness. More steps to look good, but, hey! I'll update you on the how it goes. Thanks! Edelbrock also recommends getting rid of the 'end gaskets' and using RTV or their very own super-goo #9300.
     
  15. Mar 3, 2007
    LarryD

    LarryD Member

    Gallup NM/ 4 Corners
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    When you change distributors you don't need to locate top dead center compression. Simply mark the location of where the distributor is pointing and remove the old one and replace the new one pointing at the same location.
    I like to mark where the rotor is pointing with black tape so I get it back pointing in exactly the same location. If you rotate the engine with the distributor out then you will need to locate tdc compression but if you dont move anything but the distributor its not needed.
     
  16. Mar 3, 2007
    Dana

    Dana Think Pink

    Jamaica Beach, Texas
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    I've been scared with distributor nightmare stories, but there have been a couple of excellent suggestions, a good paint pen/tape and a stick sound like double insurance of getting it right, I eventually want a good distributor. I'm going to try changing the intake manifold without pulling the distributor. The distributor might end up in the way, but my fingers are crossed.
     
  17. Mar 4, 2007
    tomcam

    tomcam Member

    Savannah Tn.
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    do you have to pull the dist. to remove the intake. it dosent go through the intake like a GM or ford does it.
     
  18. Mar 5, 2007
    JeepTherapy

    JeepTherapy Sponsor

    Negaunee, Michigan
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    As easy as it is to remove and reinstall the distributor I would pull it just to get it out of the way. It is only one bolt... As long as you don't disturb the motor and put it back in exactly as you removed it there will be no issues. The only additional work created by pulling it is having to time the motor after your done. I would do that anyway...
     
  19. Mar 5, 2007
    LostDawg

    LostDawg Slowly rusting in the NW

    Longview, WA
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    :iagree:
    The distro is easy to pull. And it is kinda in the way. Also, what LarryD said, just mark where it is and then re-time. I just got into the habit of TDC.:rofl:
     
  20. Sep 10, 2011
    74CJ5 Renegade

    74CJ5 Renegade Member

    Houston, TX
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    So I just removed my stock manifold in preparation to install my Edelbrock manifold. My engine did not have any intake gaskets just the metal valley pan gasket. (link to gasket pic: http://www.jegs.com/i/Fel+Pro/375/MS96011/10002/-1) I was a bit surprised as the Edelbrock instructions indicate that intake gaskets should be used in addition to the valley pan gasket.

    Also, there is a metal tray which is riveted to the underside of the stock intake manifold. Is this the "tin lifter valley heat shield" mentioned in the Edelbrock instructions? Do the rivets neet to be ground down and then the head shield is installed on the Edelbrock intake?
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2011
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