Help with Dist Cap

OK, should I send the carb to be rebuilt....I can't check the vacuum or the fuel pressure yet, as I don't know how to attach the vacuum gage to the fuel line, and I figure
if it is squirting out 2 ft. without being connected to the carb...it has pressure.
I squirted large amounts of carb cleaner into the top vent, and tapped the carb with a plastic mallet, but still the same.

I don't know if I should attempt to rebuild it, as I don't really know what all is inside and don't want to ruin it.

 

may be a good idea to find a garage thats been around a while,that has a good name with some older mechanics,like in there 50,s or 60,s and let them rebuild it,i would stay away from a factory rebuilt one alot of the time you will get something worse than what you started with,and pay for it,they are really not that complex,but do have alot of small parts that are easy to lose and delicate

 

looking @ the picture of your carb,and i see no tag,the tag has the #'s needed to get the carb kit,some times this tag gets lost,and then you cant get the right kit for the carb,although this carb may be new enough that the #'s are stamped into the body of the carb,they started doing that because so many were losing the tags,and prob saved them money not having to make the tag seperetaly,and the labor of installing the tag,if you do decide to rebuild it yourself get the #'s of the carb and get a carb kit before you decide to tear it down,this will give you an idea of whats inside,get a clean flat space to work on where you can be left alone and no one else has axcess to and take your time,the gallon size carb cleaner that advance autto sells made bu gunk or solider seal works well,but you will have to dismantle the carb before cleaning it,dont put any thing non metal in the cleaner it will eat it up, i let mine soak over night

 

Well, here is the place I was thinking of....just because I found it on the net while looking for one at advance auto, or napa.
http://www.carburetorusa.com/

I could most likely take one apart and put it back together, but my worry, is when it says to replace if worn....etc, since I have never seen a new one, or the insides of one.....how will I know if it's worn, or just stuck from gunked upedness.

 

Thanks to all here. I emailed the USAcarb place for a quote.
Now, I am beginning to understand .......LOL This Jeep stuff will never end.
I realize, that it will run....and glad of it, but this is just the beginning isn't it.
Because if it runs, then everything else will have to be gone over.
All of it,

Well, I can't wait.....I think I'm hooked.

So, Is there a place to buy a new carb, or a reman, and then attempt to rebuild this one. That way if I ruin this one, I would still have one on the Jeep.
Seems like an extra might be a good idea.

 

Hmmmm' I'll watch out then.
The link above for the rebuilder, warns of non OEM parts in most remans ta da ta da.
So, I will check it all out and report back.
Also, I would like to suggest a Sticky, if it does not already exist..

Respectfully, and with complete understanding, but, so many threads here, attack a problem......then it seems like they must have found the answer....but fail to let the other posters and inquisitive types.....know what happened in the end.

They most probably just go off into the woods with their fixed Jeeps.....LOL, but .......?

 

If you're careful and take your time, you can rebuild the 2G yourself and save a lot of time and aggravation. They're pretty simple to work on. When I rebuild a carb, I take everything apart and soak it overnight in a solvent (gasoline, mineral spirits, etc). Clean everything up with a small brush, old toothbrushes work pretty good. Then I squirt carb cleaner through every hole in the carb followed by compressed air to make sure no debris is stuck anywhere. Reassemble it with new parts from the kit and you're good to go. The carb kit comes with an exploded parts diagram, so you really can't get in too much trouble. I also suggest doing disassembly and reassembly on an old towel so if you drop a small part it won't bounce off the workbench with the speed of light. I've had very bad experiences with reman carbs, I'll never buy another. They always seem to need more work than my old one did.

 

this thred has been quite for a while,what was the outcome?
:toetap:

 

Well, nothing yet. My carb is in N.J. at this place.
http://www.carburetorusa.com/

They said they have a week and a half back log, with approx 48 hour turn around once they get to mine.

So.....I'm waiting. When it gets done, I plan to remove the intake manifold, and put in new gaskets. Then install the carb with fingers crossed.

If it runs, I'll test drive it a bit, then start working on everything else I can.
My 78 Chevy truck didn't sell,
I wonder if a Cj7 tub would fit on the frame if I took the cab off....

That's it, and Thanks.

 

Well I'm still waiting for my carb......

So I took off the intake manifold to reolace the gaskets.....
Well two of the square holes on the manifold were almost totally blocked with carbon deposits.
So I'm glad I did that......It might have ruined my new carb experiance ....if it ever get's back to me.
The photo doesn't show the manifold....but the square hols were round. and almost totally closed.

 

those are exhaust crossover passages for exhaust gases to pass thru the manifold to help heat the gas mixture up so it will vaporize and burn better.mostly in winter time.

 

Hmmm...and Thanks, I thought they were more important and had something to do with the gas mixture going into the cylinders.
Well....glad to here they are not.

Hopefully my carb will be back soon.

Another thigg is the just behind the rear of were the intake manifold attaches to the engine....two bolts are missing.
Looks like it is were the transmission or what ever attaches to the engine.

Are these important, and if so do they need to be some special type of bolts.
I will add another arrow to the photo above to show were they are or should be.
Thanks.

 

top bell housing bolts,grade 5 should be more than sufficient,and yes i would put them back in,should be 3/8 inch coarse theread and approx 1 inch to 1 and a half inch in length

 

Thanks, will do...

 

Well, I'm still waiting for my carb......I suppose it's a tough job.....

The guy did call last week, and said that there were small cracks around the mouth of the carb from turning down the air cleaner screw to tight.
He said that makes the whole thing go out of round, and causes the choke butter fly deal to stick.
He also said the carb had been rebuilt before, and some of the internal parts were krap.

So, since I opted to have an expert do the job....and know little else about it.....I hope he's right and I get my carb back soon....!

 

Well, I got my carb back and put the engine back together, after cleaning 40 yrs of grease and painting it.
It runs good now and looks better.
The carb top had to be replaced and I stripped the air cleaner hold on hole as it was for some other car.Not totally but 1/2 so any ideas on that.
Next, I changed the oil and put 10w 30 in it....now I wonder if that was ok or should I change it again to SAE 30

Next.....LOL I found that the front wheels wobble big time just going back and forth on the driveway.....
So I checked the drivers side front wheel has huge amount of top to bottom play in it. The passenger side is bad but not as bad. but has side to side play.

So my next question ....ot has a 27a on the front differential. What do I do to fix this., and are there special tools.

Do I remove the wheels or the bolts in the hub to get at the problem.