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2X4 frame for my CJ2A

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by 47v6, Aug 24, 2015.

  1. Apr 15, 2016
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Reading this a little more, I think that boomerangs would work better for you. I suspect that you'd need to design the shackle and cross-bar for the dimensions and angles of your current setup... off-the-shelf boomerangs may not have the right geometry.
     
  2. Apr 15, 2016
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    ^ That will keep the inversion from happening, sure, but it doesn't fix why it is happening, and could ultimately bend or break a spring if pushed hard enough.

    The ultimate fix is to increase the springs' ability to grow to a point that is greater than what it can achieve. Right now, they're travel is less than is needed, and they are inverting as a result.

    If the same object (curb, ect...) were to be hit at speed, and the axle would be forced to extend even further up, and the spring eyes would be forced even further apart, the inverted shackle is at max travel, so the next thing to happen is either a bent or broken spring.

    Without either seriously limiting axle travel (crazy-low bumpstops that most lift kits come with) or extending the distance the spring eyes have to travel, a boomerang shackle or anything else to simply limit an inversion won't fix the actual problem.
     
  3. Apr 15, 2016
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

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    I did something like this in the rear of my racer to keep my shackles from inverting inwards when getting "bumped" from behind by a buggy. I did it as a temporary, last second fix before a race, and I just never got around to making it prettier in the last 20+ years.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Apr 15, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Tim, Ryan, Thank you for replying.

    I plan on installing the new springs I purchased that should be here on Monday, sometime next week. The one spring that is pictured in the quoted passage sags a full 1 1/2 to 2" more than the other side. I also purchased some 6" shackles from Chassis Unlimited that I will also put in at the same time. If that does not solve the over extension problem I will take a piece of 1" stock and bolt it to the underside of the rear crossmember/bumper to create a stop for the shackle.

    It has been mentioned that my old fram was so messed up that I didnt notice that this one spring was not like the others and was certainly not as pronounced on a bent up fubar frame. This is probably the case. I purchased 2 of these and the corresponding poly bushings. Leaf Spring Standard Front/Rear 5-Leaf YJ 4.0”

    To get around dropping the tank ,unless I have to cut off the shackle mounts and welding them in a new location, I plan on cutting off the bolt head closest to the tank and just pulling out the bolt and just installing a new grade 8, 1/2" bolt. Sure is a lot easier than dropping the tank and might only cost me 8 or 9 bucks. totally worth it, maybe..

    This jeep rides better than it ever did before even with the lopsided sagging spring.
     
  5. Apr 15, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Gauges are in. Turn signals and brake lights to the rear are almost done. Front seats are in. No seatbelts until roll bar in bolted in. Need to wire tach, headlights ,parking lights and dash lights.

    That funny squiggly design on the rear of the tub is the reflected air hose.
    [​IMG]
     
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  6. Apr 15, 2016
    piffey263

    piffey263 Active Member

    Medford, OR
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    Jeep is looking good!!!
     
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  7. Apr 15, 2016
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    I get, from this quote, that the spring shackle did NOT invert, but rather, upon compression, the bottom of the shackle extended outward, toward the rear of the JEEP as the spring flattened out. Is this correct, Chris? If this is true, then there is no need for blocks and such to prevent true shackle inversion. I believe the moving the rear spring/shackle mount rearward would be the correct course of action, as previously mentioned.
     
  8. Apr 15, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Yeah, If longer shackles and new springs don't do the trick, thats the course of action. I gather that since the lift springs have a larger radius, upon compression they would move farther outward. Longer shackles are generally necessary to allow this movement. This can be accomplished with longer shackles or as i was thinking, sliders. Sliders could be made any length. I am not doing that, but its a cool thought.
     
  9. Apr 15, 2016
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I was wondering why my idle was so high and getting higher. Vacuum leak around the carb. Tightening made it worse, so I put a new gasket on with a thin layer of black RTV. I also had a leak around the port for the PCV in the intake. Sealed it with black RTV.

    After I did all that, I couldn't get it to run right at all. Scratching my head,:n: thinking burnt valves, put the vacuum gauge on it, low reading. WTH:cry:?

    If you leave off the vacuum line from the back of the carb that runs to the brake booster, it runs like poop.:mad: When you connect it back up, suddenly it runs good enough to tune it.:) Vacuum gauge is a magic tool(y). If you read the dial it tells you all sorts of stuff. 18~20inches of mercury or whatever the units are. Not bad for the engine I wrecked and put back together.

    Turn signals to the rear and brake lights are done. Tach is almost done. The bulb holder for the front signals is junky and gives bad connection.
     
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  10. Apr 15, 2016
    55_Willys_CJ5

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    Man....you have come a long way and now you are on the down ward slope. Your jeep is awesome with all the mods you have done. That will be one unique Flattie.(y)(y):)
     
  11. Apr 17, 2016
    47v6

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    Working out some bugs today. Drove it 10 miles and got to about 45 mph. Still little squirrelly going down the road, but nothin abnormal or scary. Transmission works well and no longer needs to be double clutched to go into 4th without grinding, but sometimes grinds going into 3rd. Either the clutch dogs are faulty or the synchronizer cone is not biting through the oil film enough.

    I got rid of the underseat gas tank and it allowed me to tilt the seat back a lot. Its a much more pleasant position. The quick detach steering wheel does wobble a bit, but I dont notice it while driving at all.

    The new power brakes are simply amazing. The effort I put into it was nothing in comparison to how modern these brakes are in comparison to before.

    Engine runs at 180 degrees most of the time but will go to 200 at a stoplight, the fan kicks on and goes to 185. Oil pressure is 25 lbs at idle when fully hot. High speed choke won't kick down right. Irritating.

    Feels like it has less power than before. I made a different accelerator pedal and its a bit longer, so it might just be me. When i put my foot into it, it goes pretty good. Makes a lot of valve train noise. Nothing bad, just old spring and rocker arm noise. No misses or dead spots.

    Gas gauge reads full with 6 or 7 gallons in the 15 gallon tank. Suposedly the ohm readings for full/empty are matched for gauge and sender.

    The spring issue is getting worse actually. I went over a speed bump and over extended that spring. The passager side has no such problem. Cant wait to fix it.
     
  12. Apr 17, 2016
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    You can calibrate the gas gauge...I did mine...Tedious but worth it.
     
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  13. Apr 17, 2016
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

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    Awesome Chris! (y)
     
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  14. Apr 17, 2016
    47v6

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    I get the feeling theta you might be a lot more, how do i put this delicately......ANAL about this stuff. I just really want it to tell me when its close to empty and it seems to do that pretty well, since I can t just open the gas cap and look in there.

    Fixed the high choke idle. Electric choke housing was jammed and wouldnt let me lean it out more. Unjammed it and its fine now. I kind of forgot how old this thing drives, like real old truck like. The whine from the D18 and the slow clunky shifting of the SM420, the distinctive sound of the v6....

    Even though the frame is new and the body parts are shiny, there is no denying the fact I am driving an antique and the steering wheel sure emphasizes it. Its a great, but scary city vehicle. Weird I know, but the speed limit is no greater than 45MPH anywhere I can drive around here. Good runner at that speed too.

    The newest part on it is a 1990 brake booster master cylinder. Thats 26 years old.....So happy to be basically done. Bit of an obsession...

    Stoked you guys are reading along.
     
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  15. Apr 17, 2016
    wheelie

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    Congrats on your accomplishment Chris. Thank you for sharing the experience and allowing many of us to learn along the way. Inspirational is one word that comes to mind.
     
  16. Apr 17, 2016
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Glad to hear you are so close to being done!
     
  17. Apr 17, 2016
    45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    You gotta be some kind of happy with all that you have accomplished. A few tweaks here and there (I know ANAL) and it'll drive like a dream.
    And don't forget the get out the GoPro and take us along for a ride.
     
  18. Apr 17, 2016
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    Putting it delicately = OCD
     
  19. Apr 17, 2016
    tymbom

    tymbom Member

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    It's CDO... Gotta be alphabetical...

    Congrats on getting it going good
     
  20. Apr 17, 2016
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    Awesome do some urban wheeling soon.
     
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