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232 Vs 258

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by tenarubicon, Sep 5, 2018.

  1. Sep 5, 2018
    tenarubicon

    tenarubicon New Member

    Australia
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    Hello Jeepers,

    What’s the real world difference between a 232 and a 258? I know on paper there’s only 10hp difference, does the longer stroke of a 258 make much more real world torque?
    I’ve read plenty on how well the 258 will lug down to very low rpm’s, does the 232 do the same?
    I’m in Australia and old Jeep parts are hard to come by, I don’t have an engine yet, I’ve got a lead on 2 complete 232’s but no point chasing them if I want a 258. It might even be cheaper to import a reconditioned 258 from you guys...
    It’s for a fairly stock CJ6
    Cheers Danny
     
  2. Sep 5, 2018
    heavychevy

    heavychevy Sponsor

    Danielsville georgia
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    This is a touchy subject, but i believe that the 258 will come out on top. 10 hp is not much, but the torque is more from the 258. They have aftermarket intakes that can take these engines beyond spec are incredible.
    Personally, i would not complain from either one they both are good engines. This topic will generate a lot of comments. Just depends on what you want to do with your jeep.
     
  3. Sep 5, 2018
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    ran a 232 for years, not too much difference between the 232 and the 258 in the wifes ride.
     
  4. Sep 5, 2018
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Rochester, NY
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    Wait for a V8 or put a holden 6 cyl in there
     
  5. Sep 5, 2018
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Go with a 4.0L from an XJ Cherokee.

    The 232 has a shorter stroke than the 258. They are otherwise identical. The longer the stroke, the lower RPM the torque peak occurs - in general. Horsepower is roughly proportional to displacement. I would expect a 232 to have 232/258 = 90% the power of the 258, at a slightly higher RPM.
     
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  6. Sep 6, 2018
    dane71

    dane71 Member

    USA
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    Personally it would bug me to not have the 258. I'm sure the 232 is great, but in my mind the 258 is the theoretical ideal engine for these jeeps!
    That said, get whatever and enjoy it, the differences probably only matter on paper.
     
  7. Sep 6, 2018
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    As I recall, few buyers chose the 232, since the 258 option was very inexpensive on the option list. I only recall one 232 Jeep coming through the dealership, and that one was ordered because it was it was one of the two remaining CJ-6s in 1975. The 232 was used a lot in the small AMC passenger cars which emphasized economy, with the 232 being more economical than the 258.

    Realize that the 232 changed a lot in 1971, when the bell patterns of all the AMC engines were unified. Prior to 1971, the 232 had a different bell pattern inherited from the Nash/Rambler inline 6s, with the starter on the left. The '71-72 engines have a different crank flange too, so I'd avoid those. You want a '73 or newer engine, if it's a 232 or 258 - assuming that all the model changes propagated to Australia when they were applied in the USA.

    Really, the 4.0L is a better choice if you have an engine compartment ready for an AMC inline 6. Tell us what you are working with.
     
  8. Sep 6, 2018
    tenarubicon

    tenarubicon New Member

    Australia
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    Thanks for your advice...
    It’s already got an AMC 290 V8 in it but I want it back to fairly stock so it’s going to be a 232 or 258... I’ll just see what I can get my hands on and go from there, doesn’t sound like there’s much real world power/ torque difference anyway.
    I’m after a torquey motor that will work all day, not a dyno queen.
    I’ll be rebuilding it, anything worth doing while it’s apart, from what I’ve researched they are a tough motor. Might bump the compression up a little, will I gain bottom end torque with a very mild cam or just keep it a stock cam?
    An electronic ignition and a 2100 or a Weber is on the cards to.
    Stock manifolds, what do you recommend, single barrel or 2 barrel? I’m guessing aftermarket manifolds are good for modified engines at higher rpm’s...

    Cheers Danny
     
  9. Sep 6, 2018
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    ok.. if it were me
    option A.. keep the V8.. its exactly what you describe and or need..
    option B.. if you must pull that lovely sounding V8 out.. XJ 4.0L
    option C.. 232/258 doesn't matter if your rebuilding it.. make it what you want..
     
  10. Sep 6, 2018
    tenarubicon

    tenarubicon New Member

    Australia
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    I understand what your saying and I agree with you but I want to return it to original. The old Jeeps are getting hard to find over here, they were never common over here anyway and most of the survivors are rusty or have been butchered. My original plans for the old girl was a V8, J20 diffs etc but I just can’t cut the old girl up. It doesn’t look like much but it’s a very straight and original example apart from the V8 and the odd gearbox. I’ve got a wide ratio CJ T18, dana 20 so all I need is a motor.
    Cheers Danny
     
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  11. Sep 6, 2018
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    whats the serial number? what did it originally come with?
    don't know what the market is down there, but "original" means different things to different people..
     
  12. Sep 6, 2018
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    What year is this? The wide ratio T-18 never came in the CJ-6 in the USA. Pretty sure no T-18 - wide or close ratio - came in the CJ-6 in the USA. The CJ-6 was exported after 1976 but I have no indication of what equipment they came with.
     
  13. Sep 6, 2018
    tenarubicon

    tenarubicon New Member

    Australia
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    J4G845VE
    Paint 528
    Trim 499
    So from what I have searched it’s a 1974 CJ6 with a 232 3 speed, colour is Mellow Yellow and a 1/3 2/3 bench seat in Buff.
    How did I go?

    It’s not a restoration (100% original), just original looking with a few of my own personal touches.
    I’d like a T18, a locker, 7.50 tires, a rear seat and possibly Holbrook springs...

    I bought a T18 supposedly out of a 79 CJ, I didn’t hold much hope to that actually been correct but it’s got a 7 inch stickout on the input shaft, a 17 tooth input shaft and a dana 20 attached so as far as I can tell it’s a wide ratio CJ T18.
     
  14. Sep 6, 2018
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Yeah, in the USA the wide ratio 4-speed was available in the CJ 77-78-79 only. It uses its own bell. Should work fine, especially if you have the factory floor plates for the T-18. Last year for the CJ-6 in the USA was 1975. The "G" in your VIN does not make sense to me - maybe it's an Australia thing. In the US it would be "F" for a 3-speed, and would be a Borg-Warner T-14. I can't look up your paint and trim codes here, but buff 60/40 and Mellow Yellow are probably correct.

    I had a 1975 CJ-6 with 258, T-14 and 3.73 gears back in the day. I drove it a lot, but it was under powered. I noticed it most on long uphills in the deserts and mountains away from the city. It was fine around town, and I even got a speeding ticket on the highway. Worked fine on the trail, considering the crawl ratio was only about 25:1.
     
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  15. Sep 6, 2018
    tenarubicon

    tenarubicon New Member

    Australia
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    I was baffled with the “g” code for the transmission to until I found it online that the RHD versions had different codes for transmission, g is a 3 speed manual.
    Mine has 4.27 diff ratio’s, so with a 6.32 1st gear ratio and a 2:1 in the dana 20 I should be at 53:1 crawl ratio.
    I don’t have a bell housing, do they make reproduction bellhousings?
     
  16. Sep 6, 2018
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    When I'm at home I can look up the part number and see if anyone is reproducing it. It's a one-piece bell, though I don't know if any of the other bells will work in place of it. Prior to '77 the T-18 in the CJ-5 and CJ-7 was a close-ratio version, with a 4.02:1 1st.

    If you can't locate a bell, you might contact member Daryl here - he might have one or know of one. Possible you could change to a shorter input shaft from a Ford T-18 and use a different bell.
     
  17. Sep 6, 2018
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    Hands down, I would keep the 290! Thats the earlier version of the 304 that followed it. Put a mild offroad cam in it and never look back. The AMC CJ6s could have come with the 304 if I recall. The 290 is an AMC engine, so why not use it? Your Jeep sounds like its not going to be bone-stock anyway.
    -Donny
     
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  18. Sep 7, 2018
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    I agree nothing like a v8 rumble.
     
  19. Sep 7, 2018
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Ok, the bellhousing for a '76-79 CJ with a T-18 is a 3228248. This is the same bellhousing used by the T-150 3-speed in those years. Should be easy to source.
     
  20. Sep 7, 2018
    heavychevy

    heavychevy Sponsor

    Danielsville georgia
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    I do not know a lot about the 290, but it is a safe bet that it has more horsepower and higher compression that the 304. Think 290 was before the horsepower reduction in the early 70's
     
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