225 to t18 clutch issues .... help!

I torqued it down to 35.

I just got done making the clutch pivot ball longer,
That did not seem to make any difference,

Right now im thinking that the friction disk is too thick and even with the pressure plate open all the way, it is still stuck.

But i probably wont know until I take it down again.

Does anyone know the length that the Bearing Retainer is supposed to be?
and
Does anyone know which clutch / PP is known to work with the 225 to ford t-18?

Thanks!

 

I completely forgot about this, sorry Will try and get that measurement tonight for you.

 

hmm
I will try that.
I have the old clutch disk/PP that worked(but for a jeep t-18 so the friction disk is different), I am going to measure the thickness of the disk and see if there is any difference.
Im also on the edge of just buying the stupid centerforce setup that everyone seems to have.

 

When I did my T18 conversion (Ford) I used a disc and pressure plate from my local FLAPS. When I converted to a hydraulic clutch I tries the Centerforce disc and pressure plate. I couldn't get the Centerforce disc to release no matter what I did. I thought it might be insufficient travel in the slave, but I eventually put back in the old disc with the new Centerforce pressure plate and it worked fine. Measuring the Centerforce disc thickness, I discovered that it was a tiny bit thicker than the old disc. Apparently that was the problem. I have read in a thread here about someone with a similar issue as yours. They drove the jeep up to a tree, pushed in on the clutch and just let it try to move the tree, which of course it couldn't. After "burnishing" the clutch disc for a few minutes everything worked fine. Wouldn't be my first choice of remedies, but might be worth a try if nothing else works. It is odd that you can get the disc to turn by hand, but it won't release when you want it to. However, it only takes a little drag to make things bind up. Hope you figure it out. I had my tranny out and in 4 times in one day trying to figure mine out and re-adjusting the pivot ball. The outside end of the clutch fork should be angled slightly forward with no pedal pressure on it when you have the pivot out far enough. As I recall I measured the overall travel of the outer end of the fork, split that measurement and adjusted the pivot ball so that half of the overall travel occured at 90 deg to the trans. shaft centerline. Hope that isn't too confusing.

 

The transmission side of the clutch disc hub....
You may need to chamfer/countersink the splines inside the hub if they come all the way to the end of the hub.
To allow more clearance for the disc, spline wise.
Kinda/sorta the same as Nick explained with the splines on the input shaft.
This was the problem I fought and finally figured out on my LUK clutch for my 225/SM420 combination.
Actually, someone one much smarter than I figured out for me.

 

thanks for the advice guys. I just got the tranny down again.
there is some gunk on the tip of the bearing retainer that matches some gunk on the top of the friction disk spline hub.

that leads me to believe that the bearing retainer is still too long.

the pilot bushing looks good, and it doesn't look like the tip is bottoming out.

I'm about to take off the clutch and see if the friction disk is too thick.

is there an easy way to figure out the amount of travel a pressure plate has? so I can compare the new one top the old one

thanks!

 

Check this out! I am researching this swap into my '70 R1 & found this article. Check out the clutch fork modification note. Good luck.

http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/cjt18/index.html

 

thanks for the link.

I got my clutch off and it is rubbing.
I can see the spot where I smoked it.
the friction disk is about .02 to .03 thicker than the old one

 

That is likely your problem right there.

 

I agree,
The interesting thing is that only about 1/2" of the innermost portion on the flywheel side of the friction disk is rubbing.

So there is a 1/2" ring around the friction disk where it is burned
The ring is on the edge closest to the splines.
On the flywheel side.

That leads me to believe that:
A) im not getting enough travel
B) My flywheel might not be flat.

Im planning on removing about an 1/8" of material from the transmission side spline hub to give me more travel.

Im also planning on taking the flywheel off to get it resurfaced.

 

x2

 

Sounds like the center of the disc is being pushed inward toward the flywheel. While the trans is out put the disc on the input shaft of the trans and take a bunch of careful measurements to make sure the disc can pull away from the flywheel sufficiently. Bottom the disc against the splines toward the transmission face and measure from there.


Sent from my iPhone

 

Hey guys,
So i have put it up and taken it down two times since I last posted.

I think I figured out what is going on.

The clutch disk is hitting the throwout bearing,

while it was together, I pushed the clutch all the way down,
I held down the brake, while I revved the engine, to generate a grind pattern I could find.

The spline hub of the clutch disk is grinding on the innermost part of the throwout bearing, check out the pic.

WTF? This seems like something waay out of left field.
Im thinking about profiling the spline hub a little bit, to try and make it slip into the throwout bearing.
Is that safe?

Otherwise,
what are my options?

Thanks so much for your help guys,

-Eric

 

latest pic ???

 

I forgot to post it.

So here is a pic of the friction disk and a throwout bearing
The disk hub looks weird, because I already shortened it a little bit to stop it from rubbing on the bearing retainer

The inner circle of the throwout bearing is rubbing on the outer bit of the spline hub.
So the spline hub cannot go into the throwout bearing, im not sure if its supposed to, but this is the only bit that is rubbing.

here is the pic

 

wow That is wierd, The clutch plate only goes in one way on some, did you get it installed correctly. My last one was stamped but i dont see a stamp on yours

 

I think so,
The side thats showing is the side that goes toward the transmission.
The side that hidden is stamped, "Flywheel side"

 

so by the time you push in far enough for the pressure plate to release then your pushing on the clutch disk with the throwout, maybe not the correct throwout bearing