225 engine assembly

Yeah, I work surgery tech a few times each week. It's important to verify everything is out before you close.

 

Once again, thanks for the education Rocky. I find myself looking at your pics, then asking myself questions that make me refer to the FSM or Google. For instance, I noticed the size difference in the valves and wondered which was which and why one was bigger. Learned that the intake is bigger, as it's relying on vacuum to pull the charge in, whereas the exhaust is forced out by the piston. Also, with limited room for valves, the bigger intake diameter allows for better flow. My first guess was that the exhaust valve would be bigger to allow the expanded gases to escape quickly, but I was wrong...I hadn't factored in the push from the piston. Awesome stuff for a novice wrencher.

 

Why did you put thread sealant on the head bolts instead of the supplied ARP lubricant? None of the head bolts penetrate into any water or oil passages.

As for the oil pan bolt torque, I found that the FSM torque of 10-15 ft-lbs is too high. I started with the wrench set to 10 ft-lbs and noticed the pan starting to distort around the bolt. I think I ended up tightening them to around 7 ft-lbs.

 

1. From the FSM, "Clean and lubricate the cylinder head bolts with a sealing compound (part no. 994757, or equivalent)".
From Team Buick website, "Perfect Seal sealing compound (Buick part #980456) is specified for use on the bolts in some cases. This would be whereever the bolt hole in the block goes through to the waterjacket".


2. That is why I use the calibrated forearm technique. I trust my eyes and arms more than a set value on stamped steel pans.

 

Gotcha

I thought I read either online or in the ARP instructions that the supplied ARP lube must be used to ensure proper torque, clamping force, and warranty.

 

From the ARP website FAQs:

[h=4]Why are my “new” head studs leaking water and how do I stop the leak?[/h]Prior to installing your “new” head studs, it is very important that you have clean surfaces to start. First, clean all the threads in the block with a thread chaser; make sure that you go all the way to the end of threads in the hole. This will also ensure that you get full thread engagement of the stud in the block. Next, clean the threads with brake or carb clean to remove any thread sealer, lube or antifreeze that may be on the threads. Then, clean the threads on the fastener. Use a liberal amount of ARP Thread Sealer, hi temp silicone or loc-tite on the threads to ensure that there will be no air pockets which can cause leaks. Then follow the instructions for installing the fasteners.

 

An update for those following along. Not a lot getting done lately. Last weekend was a wash with rain and cold weather. Yesterday was beautiful so I started by disassembling and cleaning/inspecting the rocker assemblies. I discovered a cracked rocker and eroded shafts so I put off finishing the top end until I get some new rocker assemblies from TAPerformance. I'm going with stock assemblies, just can't justify the rollers. Took the time yesterday to rebuild the carb, install a new master cylinder and the bell housing. Today is cold so I'm staying inside watching NASCAR. Hopefully next weekend will be better.

 

Thanks for the update, looking forward to the continuation next weekend

 

oh...yeah...I did all that stuff yesterday too.

 

As I near the end of the build I feel the need to give a big thank you to my wife Karla. She has been very forgiving of boxes of parts and cleaned and painted pieces laying around the house. She has provided the helping hand when needed outside. Most of all she has suffered through not having "Her Jeep" to cruise around in over these last months. I love you Karla.

 

Back to work. Installed the oil pump. Using 180 grit sand paper and a flat surface, sand wear grooves out of oil pump cover.


Fill pump cavity about halfway with petroleum jelly and press in idler gear first. Apply some assembly lube to shaft of driven gear, clear jelly from shaft hole and press in the gear. Use a straight edge to remove excess jelly.


I use a thin coat of blue silicone on both sides of the gasket to ensure a good seal. I also use blue Loctite on the bolts. Do the same for the fuel pump.


Time to flip the engine and finish the top end. Also time for a break while I wait out a deluge.

 

Last chance to clean the lifter bores.


Last night I cleaned the lifters with mineral spirits and soaked them in oil (Joe Gibbs BR30) overnight.


Applied Comp Cams Cam and Lifter assembly lube to the bottom of each lifter. As I installed them I rotated them to ensure they moved freely.



Coated lifter end of push rod and installed all push rods.




Applied assembly lube to new rocker assemblies. The end rockers must be removed so have the correct size cotter pin to go back in. The others can just be pushed aside by compressing the springs.


Apply assembly lube to the ends of the push rods and the top of the valves.



Position the rockers towards the push rods on the shaft and set them on the push rods first ensuring the rods are properly seated.


Make sure you install the baffle under the pcv valve.


Torque the shafts down to 30 lb-ft. Rotate the engine 720° and back to TDC. Now if you are reinstalling the original push rods and rockers, you can skip this step. Since I have new rockers and push rods I need to check preload. You only need to do this on one push rod. The rod you choose should be on a fully closed valve. If you are at TDC, #1 I or E will work. Find a way to scribe a repeatable line on the push rod. I used a thick feeler gauge layer on the gasket surface. Scribe a line on the push rod. Now back the pedestal bolts off till there's no tension on the push rod but leave it in the rocker cup. Now scribe another line exactly like before. Remove the push rod and measure the difference in the lines. It should be between .045" and .065". Mine was right in the middle at .055".



Torque the pedestals down for the final time. Take a break because the next step is the intake.

 

Clean the lifter valley, heads, and intake gasket surfaces. Machine shops will coat surfaces with moly so I choose to remove it. I also chose to forego the rubber valley seals and run a bead of black silicone. Pushed it into the head overhang and ran a little up onto the head.



Karla held the gaskets in place (there a little room center top) and I carefully placed the intake. Installed all bolts finger tight and tightened back and forth on the middle two bolts several times (still under starting torque) to settle the intake in place. I then ran the sequence 3 times starting at 25 lb-ft and ending with 50 lb-ft.




Now I'll let everything cure overnight and back in the jeep it goes tomorrow.

 

There have been quite a few intake bolts broken because they would not stand up to that torque. Later, in the 231's the factory changed to 35 ft-lbs altho most of the literature still shows more in most cases. If you ever have to do it again, I would suggest something between 30-35. Sounds like you are okay this time

 

Looks great, makes me want to do mine all over again.

 

Looking great, you make it look so easy!

 

Maybe you can let us see and hear it run on Youtube.

 

Had to take the day off today. Took some Tramadol for some serious shoulder pain and was horribly ill most of the day. I hate that stuff, but it's a great pain killer. I did weld up a couple of holes in the firewall. I will get back after it tomorrow. I'll video startup and post it here. Won't leave you hanging.

 

excited to see that! My engine is sitting on the stand waiting to go to the machine shop.... not enough funds to get it together

 

Now for today's saga. Installed the flywheel. Be sure both the surface of the crank and flywheel are perfectly clean. Install flywheel to crank. The holes will only line up one way. Torque to 55lb-ft.



You should have the flywheel ground if needed, I didn't. Clean well with brake cleaner.


Set clutch in place with an alignment tool. I use an old input shaft.


Everything went so well to this point. I should have known to buy new clutch cover bolts. The first one would not even take 30 lb-ft and twisted off in the flywheel. I will have to get it out before I proceed. Man that sucks but at least it happened here and not on the road.