1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

225 engine assembly

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by grannyscj, Jan 27, 2013.

  1. Feb 6, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2005
    Messages:
    1,756
    Comp Cams Cam Kit BV63 260H (cam, lifters, valve springs, umbrella seals, timing set, lube)
    Sealed Power Valves V-1744 (exhaust) V-1745 (intake)
    Sealed Power Pistons P1110P
    Sealed Power Rings E-222K
    Sealed Power Connecting Rod Bearings 8-2500RAA
    Clevite Main Bearing Set MS960P
    FelPro Lower Gasket Set CS 8142
    FelPro Upper Gasket Set HS 8723 PT-7
    ARP Head Bolt Set chbs-1216 (headbolts.com #)
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2013
  2. Feb 6, 2013
    69Willys

    69Willys Las Vegas, NV

    Las Vegas, NV
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2011
    Messages:
    902
    fb You're the best!
     
  3. Feb 6, 2013
    69Willys

    69Willys Las Vegas, NV

    Las Vegas, NV
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2011
    Messages:
    902
    Please excuse my ignorance, but do your pistons have this triangular-shaped notch in them and the round formation in the center? I'm guessing the round part may be from the casting?? What are those notches for?
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Feb 6, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2005
    Messages:
    1,756
    Notch to front. I´m not sure what they look like. They arrive Friday.
     
  5. Feb 6, 2013
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    888
    The pistons that my shop ordered have an arrow that points to the front. Here is where I left off for the night after getting the oil pan on:
    [​IMG]


    Here is a photo of the stake marks that need to be ground away in order to install a new rubber seal. Using a die grinder with a fine pointed bit, gently grind at the seal side of the mark until the outer perimeter of the old seal is visible. Flip over the cover and using a brass punch on the lip of the old seal, pound out the old seal. You may have to smooth the stake marks further in order to have a nice smooth surface for the new rubber seal. I thought I had a photo of the timing cover with the new seal in but apparently I don't :cry:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Feb 6, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2005
    Messages:
    1,756
    Pretty. Nice job.
     
  7. Feb 6, 2013
    69Willys

    69Willys Las Vegas, NV

    Las Vegas, NV
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2011
    Messages:
    902
    Looks great Joe!! You're almost there!
     
  8. Feb 8, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2005
    Messages:
    1,756
    Pistons arrived.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Feb 8, 2013
    Cap-n-Cray

    Cap-n-Cray I want to do this again.. Staff Member 2020 Sponsor

    Bainbridge...
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Messages:
    203,060
    Mmmm......Pistons. :D
     
  10. Feb 9, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2005
    Messages:
    1,756
    A little trial and error today. Pressing out the wrist pins in the old pistons. Started by cutting a 3.75" iron pipe down the middle to make a cradle for the piston.
    [​IMG]

    Used old wrist breaker and a step bit to drill a clearance hole for the pin.
    [​IMG]

    Using a deep socket 9/16" I pressed out the first one. In doing so it flattened the cradle a little and I cracked the old piston.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Not good so I welded a brace to keep the cradle from spreading. On one side I set a ledge for the connecting rod to sit on and the other a foot to keep it level.
    [​IMG]

    More later.
     
  11. Feb 9, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2005
    Messages:
    1,756
    To better explain my trial and error, I began with just the cut and drilled half pipe. The piston cracked but the wrist pin came out easily. The second was an utter failure. The pipe had flattened so the piston was sloppy. When I began pressing the pin the piston shattered. I stopped and inspected and quickly found the issue. I then squeezed the pipe back into shape and welded the braces. After doing this everything worked perfectly and wrist pin removal was easily accomplished even in the shattered piston.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Feb 9, 2013
    chuck123wapati

    chuck123wapati Member

    wyoming
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2008
    Messages:
    761
    are you going to weigh each piston/rod assy?
     
  13. Feb 9, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2005
    Messages:
    1,756
  14. Feb 9, 2013
    69Willys

    69Willys Las Vegas, NV

    Las Vegas, NV
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2011
    Messages:
    902
    Do you have enough confidence now in the fit of the cradle that you will use it to press the new pins into the new pistons without cracking any of them? I can understand why you would want to weigh those assembly parts, but what kind of tolerances are we talking about? How would you lighten up the ones that might be too heavy? And what kind of scale do you weigh them with? Just curious.
     
  15. Feb 9, 2013
    chuck123wapati

    chuck123wapati Member

    wyoming
    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2008
    Messages:
    761

    http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Art...ating_assemblies_cranks_rods_and_pistons.aspx
     
  16. Feb 9, 2013
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Messages:
    888
    Is there enough room on the piston around the wrist pin to support the piston on the flats instead of in the cradle? 2 pieces of 1" x 1/2" flat stock on end on either side of the pin?

    Like this with the flat stock resting on the frame
    [​IMG]

    Or this way with the flat stock on the press plates
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2013
  17. Feb 9, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2005
    Messages:
    1,756
    I won't be using the cradle to install the pins. The pins are currently residing in the bottom of the deep freeze. During install the rods will be in the oven at around 350* F. Should go in very easy, maybe by hand. We'll see. This is my first pressed pin install. Only floating pins in my past.

    I'll use our digital scales to weigh. They are fairly accurate. I use them to weigh beer ingredients. To adjust weight, I'll find the lightest one and sand disc the bosses on either side of the rod. Shooting for within a gram.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Feb 9, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2005
    Messages:
    1,756
    BTW If reusing rods, stamp them so they go back to the same location on the crank.
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Feb 9, 2013
    uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    Greeley CO
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2009
    Messages:
    2,104
    Back in the 70's and 80's when i was rebuilding motors at home, they always recomended a " rod alignment".
    I always did it, never had a motor fail either, not saying the alignment was the issue.
    Perhaps somebody can give you more info regarding the importance of this work for your rebuild.
     
  20. Feb 10, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2005
    Messages:
    1,756
    Always heard it was for new or reconditioned rods. Using original rods that were good to begin with it was unecessary.
     

Share This Page

New Posts