2000 Gm 4.3 Metric Fuel Supply And Return Line Adapters

The fuel supply lines for the FI system are metric. Like a 16 mm and 14mm nut with o rings. I have retained the steel supply line stubs from the doner car. They are about 3/8 and 5/16, but metric, so about 9.7 mm and 8.05 or so OD.

My thinking was that I would flare the steel lines to accept normal tube nuts and go from there, but its not that simple. Its just not going to flare on the larger OD tube.

There are all sorts of AN fittings out there, but I don't really want to dive into all that, UNLESS someone here tells me it's easy and they did this. I will not run rubber lines, even 250 PSI FI rubber. I want steel to the tank.

Yeah guys, I'm ready to run fuel lines to this 4.3 FI transplant, help me do burnouts!

 

Summit Racing has thousands of adapter fittings. If you start here: https://www.summitracing.com/search...rder=Ascending&N=part-type:universal-fittings, you can specify what type of connection you need on both sides of the fitting. You can probably find what you need. I would run Nickel Copper tubing with US fittings an then adapt to whatever you need at the pressure regulator and tank.

 

Hmm, looking at the selection. You might need to go AN from metric. If that's the case, I'd run a short chunks of AN hose at the connections using socketless fittings: https://www.summitracing.com/search...der=Ascending&N=fitting-style:socketless-barb. You need some lube to slide the hose on the fitting and it will NEVER come off. I've had a bunch of these in service on my Mustang for 8+ years now. One thing that sucks is the AN hose is typically sold in 20ft rolls. If you go that route, I've got extra -6 hose and could send you a couple feet for the cost of shipping.

 

Might try Coliflower Hydraulics. They are a Parker hydraulic hose distributor. Looked up their locations and Capital Heights is closest to you. I use the one in Annapolis and have never been dissatisfied.

 

I used stainless braided teflon hose on the beater truck. Super easy to work with. Does the 4.3 have snap to connect fuel line fittings?

 

Only the evaporations one that goes to the tank. Im looking to delete it if i can.

 

Researching how to connect this fuel injection supply line with conversions is incredibly irritating. I either am missing something fundamental or people just don't do this. The 2 lines are 3/8 and 5/16 nominal, have an o ring seal to the fuel rail with metric threads. The O-rings are different sizes due to 5/16 vs 3/8 but no adapter has the specs on that O ring size. Do people just randomly get a fitting without specs that work?

The aftermarket auto sites have terrifically horrible search features.

This has been done thousands of times, yet i can't seem to find any real info on it.

 

I skimmed through this. Hope it helps.

4.3 CPI fuel inlet and outlet fitting sizes??

 

Can you post a picture of what you have?

 

Won’t a hydraulic type flare tool make this type of fitting ? Couldn’t you use the existing nuts and simply flare an end that would seal?Hydraulic Flaring Tool Kit
Or Napa sells chunks o tubing with the flat o ring fitting on one end just flare the other with a double flare and join the new line.

 

That was the plan, but my ridgid flare tool is not up to the task and 300 bucks for this kit is a bit much for the one time I will need it.

 

Is this the thing? $20

Fuel line adapter – Affordable Fuel Injection

 

Yu

Yup looks just like the ones st Napa.

 

I already have the stubs left over that are exactly that. I wanted to avoid using a stub and a piece of fuel injection rated rubber tube with a clamp. I wanted to just flare it all, but it seems people don't really do this and generally buy some sort of kit with either braided or just rubber lines. Im not a fan of this for any length for fuel supply.

For someone who does a search, this is what I have purchased.
-6 AN adapter to metric (3)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-991955ERL
-6 AN adapter to metric (1)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-991954ERL
NiCopp line (1 roll 3/8)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220219-25
-6 AN Bulkhead fitting for fuel tank (2)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPE-16906
Swivel -6 AN fitting from tank (2)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-AT920506ERL
-6 AN fitting to 3/8 hard line (6)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-2200075B
Wix fuel filter with M16-1.5 threads
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIX-33481
Fuel injection hose clamps for connecting the in tank fuel pump (10) only need 3
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-390581

I have already purchased some 3/8 fuel injection line that is rated for immersion in gasoline for supply and return so as to not cause bubbles that could be picked up by the in tank fuel pump..

This all together is about 250 bucks. Could I have done it cheaper? Probably, Would I have spent hours figuring out how to cobble this together? Definitely! Did I spend hours researching and thinking about how to do this? Yup.. But at least this stuff is actually designed to work together and probably won't fail too easily and light me and my jeep on fire.

I am sure to need other parts, but this is where I will start to attempt to plumb my fuel lines. I will most likely be making a new hole in my tank to accept the fuel pump, pressure and return line. The existing hole for the gauge sender will stay in place. i will make a new cover out of aluminum most likely for the pump and lines.

The annoying part is that the cost for just running fuel lines without even buying a new fuel pump is half the cost of the entire Asto van I bought for this swap.

 

you know all this is interesting . but can we see a picture of updated project
you know . engine in frame

 

Ha! Bit sideways, just like 2020!

 

That sums up hotrodding in general. It's the little things that double the cost.

 

Just
Empty
Every
Pocket!