2 Hole Steering Knuckle

Hi Oldtime, my goal: convert my two tie rod to a one tie rod system with the help of a two hole knuckle. I have a 134 and dana 27.
Need/want to keep it simple for now. Started migrating to the Saginaw thread but much of that is power assist which I really dont want to go that far.
Thank you for the input - need as much as I can get. So many solutions out there! Cheers

 

Keep in mind that a two hole knuckle is not required to run a 1-piece tie rod. It is very easy to install a 1-piece tie rod using all original pieces once you have sourced the longer tie rod.
The two hole knuckle actually slows the steering ratio slightly if all other parts remain the same.
-Donny

 

Good point Donny. I'll add to that - if keeping the Ross box and bell crank, you might run out of steering travel before you can reach lock-to-lock if you switch to a 2-hole knuckle, since your drag link will be traveling a further distance... possibly more than the original setup allows? Just a thought.

 

Thats what I was trying to get at. The long tie rod is available from Advanced Adapters (Herm too but his uses the jamb nuts). I think the longer of the two original tie rods becomes the drag link.

 

Good info. Well I have seen the two hole TRE set up as well with the one hole knuckle BUT I have also read that there are leverage benefits to the two hole knuckle.
Yes - I remember reading that you keep one of the old tie rods as the new Drag and find the new long tie rod for the drum to drum connection.
I didn't spend a fortune for the knuckle but it is nice and clean now haha.
CONCLUSION... add two hole TRE and long tie rod OR add two hole knuckle and manual saginaw. Keep in mind I am mechanically challenged as my avatar would leave one to believe!
Thanks for the feedback - always learning, cheers

 

Also : what is the length of the long single tie rod when using a 2 hole TRE on the passengers side. Thanks again.

 

Advanced Adapters says 35.5 inches. I can go out and measure the one I have, it came from Advanced Adapters 30 some years ago.

 

FYI Order TREs for a M38A1 they are larger dia and heavier duty than the stock CJ parts

 

Unless your mechanically proficient I suggest you shy away from doing the Saginaw swap.
It can certainly be beneficial but you will need to fully understand ALL the changes envolved.
It is a good deal if done correctly.

As I stated before the long single tie rod (for use with double knuckle) measures 38-1/4" OAL without the rod ends.
The long rod is a real good way to eliminate the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
The single piece tie rod does not allow the front tires to go into the repetative Toe In / Toe Out mode.

You need the length of the long tie rod for use with single knuckle ?

 

Yes I believe so. There was a great thread at cj2a and has a nice write up about the 2 hole TRE. I think oldtime you r in on that discussion. Sure do appreciate all the help. The m38... they are thicker but is the thread the same as the stock? I assume so. Thanks once again!

 

Here's a pic of the 2 types that I have for D25 and/or D27 axles.


Upper tie rod is for use with double hole knuckle system @ 38-1/2"
That rod is normally used with a Saginaw steering conversion and the steering gear position will mandate the length of the required pitman drag link.
Not really sure where to source them, maybe Herm ?

Middle tie rod for use with double tie rod end and the typical single hole knuckle @ 35-1/4".
The 35-1/4" rods were common aftermarket items around 1980.

The lower drag link is the long side original rod removed from the standard Ross steering bellcrank.
That rod is used to connect the single hole tie rod to the bellcrank.
The two lower rods are used together with the Ross bellcrank system.

True Death Wobble occurs whenever an up down (jumping) motion coincides with the toe in / toe out cycling
True Death Wobble is only possible with a split tie rod system.
The key here is that either style shown will eliminate repetetive toe in / toe out cycling.
Meaning that 1/2 of the full blown Death Wobble is fully eliminted.

 

Great. Thank you very much. I am going to keep it simple and go with the 2 hole TRE and thus the 35.25 long tie rod. If I am doing this I might as well also get a replacement for the drag link so that both rod are HD. Will the thread be the same on the m38 TRE's as the standard cj TRE's? What length do you have for that drag link? Mine are both just over 17 which seems a little short. Is the drag link also threaded right and left?
Appreciate the time everyone is taking to read. Cheers!