1975 Cj5 Turbo Red

Hi Ya'all........ Can anyone help out with these #'s ? Top is my Front diff. The Bottom is the bell housing On my 700R4. I'm hoping this Tranny is '87 or newer.

 

The welded numbers seem like a rebuilt transmission

 

There are several internet articles about 700R4 identification, here is one.

700R4 Identification | Transmission Resource

I believe you are correct when you hope your transmission is 87 or newer. The first generation of 700R4’s around 1984 had some shifting issues.

 

Thanks, Everyone , I really appreciate your Help. I am going out to look again, right now !!

 

Your transmission has been disassembled at least once already to install the adapter shaft. No telling what year it really is on the inside. Whoever put that jeep together with their attention to detail would have only put the latest parts. Great looking jeep. Drive it and enjoy it and don’t let the year of the transmission be a worry.

 

Well .... I did discover It's a "82 .... Your right , The guys that rebuilt this really knew what they were doin' Thanks, I'm not going to worry about it at all.....It's like you said. I am busy Installing new water temp, oil pressure and amp gauges . It only was rebuilt using the Buick Electronic ' Idiot Lites '
Also,The front shaft has rubbed on the tranny pan , most likely when he pounded it hard . I think I read that they make a Tranny pan to compensate for the shaft being so close . Gotta study on that now... Thanks Again , Lockman

 

Did they install the shaft with the slip yoke end of the shaft on the axle end or at the transfer case? I put the slip end at the axle end and had no interference but I have a 400 trans.

 

Yes They did.. But It almost seems to me that the shaft is about a couple inches short ? It's actually a bit ' Loose' at the Star Slip end ? Trying to get a pic up for reference. Thanks for your help and interest. Sounds like we may have similar Rebuilds ?

 

I don't see a Blow-off valve in the pic. Are you sure? a BOV is not standard for a Buick turbo, and with an automatic its not as necessary. However, google "Buick horse sneeze" and that might be what you're hearing. I see the waste gate and actuator, but that won't generally make a popping sound.


Also, that soot on your hood is from one of the exhaust connections into or out of the turbo leaking. Check those bolts and gaskets.


This is a really cool jeep.

 

Hello Jeff.... Thanks for you ideas and suggestion's . They really Help ! So..... Another one: I am fully on board with the Fluid- Film for rustproofing ., Especially inside the Hats and Channels. What do you think of my Idea to Raptor the underside of My Hood . I would do a thorough tape off job and then Fluid- Film the channels. I realize that this would be only a minimal improvement , But I have the materials & plenty of time. My thinking is the Raptor may be a sort of Sound Insulator and Insulation , all in one ? The top of the fender/ hood alignment ridges would be done also. They are wearing thru to bare metal in a few spots , from road & engine vibrations & rubbing.

 

proper prep will be key for the liner under the hood. I have used a lot of it in many different applications, not all auto related. I would do the liner first than the fluid film,I also recommend the "pro" model fluid film gun it has a few hoses with different nozzles on them for frame rails and hat channels. there is another "oily " undercoat NH Oil Undercoating | Vehicle Undercoating Services & Products, Ive never used it as its petroleum based and most of my customers lean towards tree hugger more than oil burner...

 

Thanks Jeff..... In other words , I've got to take the ' Gloss ' off & prep with the mfg's cleaner ( For the Raptor on the underside of the hood , that is ?)
Rich

 

I sand with 80 grit on a d/a sander after cleaning with “prep sol” any cleaning solvent will do I use axalta brand(used to be DuPont) any oil or gloss will compromise the adhesion.

 

Dont scuff toi vigorously on underside of the hood. It's not hard to pucker the flat areas.

 

It will stretch the sheet metal if too aggressive you are correct

 

Well, I Discovered no Bump Stops on the Frame above the Front Axel ???? That's why the pan was dented by the PO And the front shaft seems loose at the front yoke. Do they ever Break there ? You can see from the pic ,, the gap at the joint it moves quite abit up & down & side to side ? Should I replace it ?

 

Any movement you can feel between the two yoke halves means the u-joint needs to be replaced. When you remove the shaft and joint try jerking on the yoke half sticking out of the differential to see if that has any movement. It is sometimes tricky to isolate the looseness, this is an easy time to do that.

 

Thanks for your help , Chilly. I have Checked for wear at the u-joint at the differential and at the Transfer case. Both u-joints wear new 17000 miles ago, using Quality parts by the Builder. Any way, the Play I'm finding is right at the Front Yoke / Rear section union of the shaft. The picture shows the discolored area where i'm suspecting the Inner part or the rear section shaft and/ or the inner part of the front yoke may be damaged from what seems to have been a pretty big impact? The shaft is not bent , neither is any steering links or bars. I'll let you know, when I get some time to drop it and look further. BTW, where is a good parts place to by new, or kinda new, bump stops for this 1975 CJ5, Boxed front , Frame ( It was Stretched to fit the Automatic 700R4 ? Thanks again & take it easy ! Lockman ( Richie )

 

I assume you're talking about where that slip/ splined section comes together?..............normally called a Slip Yoke and midship spline coming off the fixed side of the shaft on the right in your pic.............If that is where all the movement is it really depends on how much your talking about ? Up/down / side to side? Too much and the shaft will vibrate and wear quicking , not enough and it could bind during suspension travel.............

Fact is they do wear out from lack of lubrication or too much angle in the driveshaft......... and normally a good driveline shop will want to replace both ends so they get a match on the spline depth tolerance between the two....

Not sure whether or not that picture was taken at ride height meaning on the ground with all the weight in the vehicle.........or? .....But it looks like you do not have enough clearance at the end of that slip yoke travel.........most times you would want to see more clean area on that smooth slip section where it's now painted.......perhaps as much as 3/4" to allow for suspension compression.......... Without enough travel / clearance you run the risk of damaging your driveshaft , transmission or rear axle..

 

There should be a grease fitting on the slip yoke. Try pumping some grease in it to see if the play is less.