Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by jeepstar, Nov 14, 2016.
That's a rather large drill! Rental place didn't have anything smaller?
This shouldn't be so difficult.
If it was me, I'd freehand it. It's just a bolt, and there is already a "pilot" hole..
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I brought it home from work
get a piece of 3/8" scrap plate large enough for drill and drill two holes in it . to mount to block . well that's what I would do . done it at work many times
alright guys. here it goes
1. new water pump
2. new thermostat, this one has a weep hole
3. new 7/16 14 helicoiled engine block bolt hole
4. new 7lb radiator cap
5. wider belt on the water pump pulley
6. new head gasket
anything else before I begin the reassembly project? I really don't want to go through this again. the weather is in the negatives outside and it takes forever for the shop to heat.
any good method for removing the spray on head gasket sealant? I was going to use brake parts cleaner, since that works so well for degreasing other automotive projects of mine
Correct length head bolts all round?
yes. 4.5 for the heads, I don't recall the length of the hidden one in the carburetor hole.
2 things: Can you show us a picture of the top of the block before you put the gasket on?
Make sure none of the bolt shank shows when you stick it through the head.....in other words nothing but threads showing.
1. you want a pick of the engine block top
2. you want a pick of the bolt installed through the head, so that you can see how much bolt would be in the block, and confirm only threads stick out below the head?
is brake parts cleaner an acceptable method to clean the old spray on gasket sealant off of the block and head?
But OEM spec is 4-¼", not 4.5" (as per your post #67 etc.).
And, again, the carb bolt should be 1-11/16".
On the length of the bolts, first drop all the bolts in the holes in the head and make sure nothing but threads protrude on the under side. Then, measure how much thread protrudes, and hand thread all of the bolts into the block deck to make sure they don't bottom out before the above measured length is achieved.
Brake cleaner should be a good cleaner for gasket mating surfaces (head and deck), and I usually use a single-edge razor blade to carefully clean these surfaces.
they cant bottom out, they go into the water jacket. before I did the helicoil, I tried the bubba method, and got up to a 6" bolt before I realized the length wont matter at all, as there is only so much block material that is threaded.
Actually a picture of the head too would be good, but definitely the block. Don't need a bolt picture as long as you know there is nothing but thread showing. Brake cleaner will be fine as long as it works for that.
the underside of the *head* is what you want a picture of?
Might as well post one, just in case someone sees something wrong. Hopefully we can eliminate you having any more troubles with the head gasket.
4.5" bolt, and helicoil block hole
Thread amount obviously good. The top of the block needs to be as clean and smooth as reasonably possible. You can see the outlines of the headgasket sealing surfaces and those are the most critical of course. Just make sure there are no visible cracks or gouges that would prevent sealing.
Yes. just waiting for the gasket to arrive before i clean the surfaces.
Should i flush the coolant jacket for any drill debris and the helicoil tang? not sure how important that would be, but dont want to wreck my 600 radiator doing this project next. talk about project creep!
Especially just where the cylinders almost come together.
You could fish with a magnet-stick, but you'd probably get a lot of rust flakes too, and then that would lead to the next bunch of worries.
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