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1969 CJ5 project

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by alex211, Oct 4, 2009.

  1. Sep 19, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    I got the drums off the 14 bolt, tomorrow I'm going to pick up some dually hubs, the short water pump and accessory brackets, and a flywheel. Whenever I get a horizantal band saw I'm going to see if it will work well to shorten the front housing.

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  2. Sep 23, 2010
    cerial

    cerial Banned

    Middleville MI
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2010
    Messages:
    139
    bump on updates
     
  3. Sep 30, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    Got all the brackets cut off and ground smooth the tubes on my axles.

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    1976 4 bolt 350, clean motor. The plan is aluminum heads with some compression and other goodies. I may go out to a junkyard in maryland and buy a rust free roller CJ5 or CJ6. That would make this go a lot quicker.

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    Last edited: Sep 30, 2010
  4. Oct 2, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    I got the front axle stripped, I either need to save up and buy a band saw or borrow one to cut the housing down.

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  5. Oct 2, 2010
    double R

    double R Member

    Reseda, CA
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2003
    Messages:
    332
    I was able to chop mine with a cut-off wheel. Go slow and you should only need one cut-off wheel.
     
  6. Oct 2, 2010
    JeepPower

    JeepPower Hopeless Gearhead

    Fort Mill, SC
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2002
    Messages:
    288
    you need to cut the housing or the axle tube?

    If it is the tube, as Double said-- you can cut it with a thin abrasive wheel. I cut mine with a hand-held angle grinder & a 1/16" thick wheel. The crucial thing is to make a clear line to cut to, all the way around the tube. I did this with a narrow strip of cardboard, that had a nice straight edge. Wrap it around like a ring & draw your line.

    Here's how mine came out:

    Rear axle
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    front axle:
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    Last edited: Oct 2, 2010
  7. Oct 2, 2010
    skeely

    skeely New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009
    Messages:
    38
    hey jeeppower
    i agree with you that a cutoff wheel can do the job. you clearly have a good eye and steady hand. however, i must take umbrage with your method of shortening the axle tube. regarding the splice in the tube, the full penetration weld you are attempting without a chill / back up ring technically would not be full penetration. you would have to gouge out the joint inside the tube to clean metal and weld it to complete the joint. even if you were to accomplish that, you would be well advised to have the assembly heat treated to releive the heat affected zone of the weld. i would think you would be better served to air arc (gouge) the flange off, shorten the tube then weld the tube to the flange. you would eliminate a splice in the tube and as the tube slip fits into the flange the orientation of the flange to the carrier would be assured. without sounding arrogant or pompous i would be surprised if the splice lives through a serous session of wheeling.
     
  8. Oct 2, 2010
    JeepPower

    JeepPower Hopeless Gearhead

    Fort Mill, SC
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2002
    Messages:
    288
    no sweat man-- I used to think the same.

    I'm certainly not a schooled metallurgist or welder-- just a hobbyist with just enough experience & reading to be dangerous.

    I have sheared a bearing flange off another axle in the past. It took a hell of alot of force to do it. Upon inspection, it was due to a manufacturing defect (The tube had been milled down internally to fit a seal). What was left of the tube wall ranged from a 1/16 - 1/32 of an inch thickness. It took 10+ years of wheeling it for it to fail.

    We promptly stick-welded it back together (out on Hells revenge) and wheeled it like it never happened. It's still working today.

    It is fairly common to weld-on axle ends.

    All arguments aside, time will tell. I'm pretty faithful that this will last a while. I'm not going to do anything with it other than get it in the Jeep & wheel it! :)
     
  9. Oct 3, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    I need to shorten the axle tube, I'll probably end up doing what you did. I got a pair of flat top knuckles yesterday for the 44. Any one have any input on cutting 4 inches off the long side of the front tube? I was thinking and scout II axle shaft would work too, right? thanks guys.
     
  10. Oct 3, 2010
    JeepPower

    JeepPower Hopeless Gearhead

    Fort Mill, SC
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2002
    Messages:
    288

    I ground out the weld, with a hard wheel, before I cut the tube. I don't see why it can't be done after cutting it off the axle. The weld has to be ground out in order to get the tube out of the knuckle.

    I'm not up on axle shaft lengths. I went with a 4340 alloy shaft that has extra splines, so that it can be cut to length.

    From what I've seen, front axle lengths are expressed as the length from the tip of the splines to the center of the u-joint cap bore. Randy's Ring & Pinion has a great site for seeing what is available: Dana 44 shafts
     
  11. Oct 3, 2010
    double R

    double R Member

    Reseda, CA
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2003
    Messages:
    332
    Here's some info from Mr. N

    http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44_3.htm#Chevy
     
  12. Oct 3, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    I think I'll just cut it 4 inches and either have my original inner shaft shortened or go with a new axle shaft. What companies will make a custom axle shaft for a reasonable price?

    thanks
     
  13. Oct 3, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    Should there be a spanner nut for ball joint pre-load on both sides? This is what is on the driver's side, there are no threads in the inner C either.

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  14. Oct 3, 2010
    Mike S

    Mike S Sponsor

    Cameron Park Ca.
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2009
    Messages:
    811
    That is not for preload, it is an eccentric for adjusting caster/camber.
     
  15. Oct 3, 2010
    skeely

    skeely New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009
    Messages:
    38
    check out dutchman. don't have a number but should be easy to find.
     
  16. Oct 3, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    I know what it is but the other side had a pre load nut. It turns out that under the rust there is a thin spanner nut. I'm just going to get rid of that eccentric and use a regular pre-load nut when I put the front end together.
     
  17. Oct 3, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
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    441
    It looks like currie makes some good shafts for a decent prices. $180 for a custom chromoly inner shaft. :)
     
  18. Oct 4, 2010
    Wmi68CJ5

    Wmi68CJ5 Let the Sun Shine!

    Twin Lake MI
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2006
    Messages:
    463
    Moser is another. They cut down and resplined my d44 front shafts for a decent price.
     
  19. Oct 5, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    A driver drop waggy inner axle is exactly 4 inches shorter than my stock chevy inner axle, so if I can find one that's the route I'll take.
     
  20. Oct 5, 2010
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    Man you really have to beat on those inner c's to get them off, I have a few .045 cut off wheels to cut the tube with.


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