1968 Jeepster Commando With A Coughing Dauntless V6

Discussion in 'Jeepster Commando and Commando Tech' started by Nekaf&Jeepsterdude, Aug 29, 2016.

  1. Sep 7, 2016
    ETZFAM

    ETZFAM FLATIES & ROUND FENDERS, SOME EVEN RUN

    WENATCHEE, WA
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    The compression test shows there is a problem with #1, adding the oil and it did not improve much would say its in the head, if this engine has never been apart, it came stock with regular valve seats, back then we had leaded fuel, with out the lead it raised the flash point of the fuel which lead to burnt valves, seats a mess. So when ever head work is done they install hardened exhaust seats, new valves, springs, maybe guides and of course PC seals.
    But since all of the compression is a little low? Just doing the head work will put more strain on the rings, so, if was me I would rebuild the whole thing?

    Depends on money time and what you want to do?

    I am sure others would say just do the heads and run it?

    Rick
     
  2. Sep 7, 2016
    commanlerwrangdo

    commanlerwrangdo Member

    Cleveland, Ohio
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    Met a few old timers over the years who set timing with a vacuum gauge and never used a timing light. You have to remember that fuels when the Dauntless was made and fuels today are pretty much different animals. Technically, the timing is now over advanced (at least by factory specs), but if there is no pinging while driving, I'd keep the setting and enjoy your Jeep.

    Sure, there my be some worn valve seats and heads could be re-done, and that can lead to a full engine rebuild, but if it were mine, I'd save the cash and enjoy my Jeep.
     
  3. Sep 7, 2016
    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude

    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude 1968 Jeepster Commando, 1951 M38a1C

    The Netherlands
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    Here's the video:

     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2016
  4. Sep 7, 2016
    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude

    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude 1968 Jeepster Commando, 1951 M38a1C

    The Netherlands
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    Thank you for the advice. Would adjusting the valves do any good? That is the next thing on my list.
    Unlike over at your side of the big pond, we do not have a wide variety of motor shops to chose from which are experienced in rebuilding this type of engine. Maybe when I look into it I can find the right man for the job but it I have to do some research. If possible I would like to do most of the work (taking it apart and putting it back together) myself.
    For now I want to drive it without making it into a big project. This one was supposed to be one to drive rather to restore ;)...
    I first want to restore my M38a1.
     
  5. Sep 7, 2016
    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude

    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude 1968 Jeepster Commando, 1951 M38a1C

    The Netherlands
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    Yeah, for now I just gonna do that. See if I can get it in optimal running condition without taking the engine apart. Maybe in the winter of 2017-2018 it could be a nice project but for now I just want to drive it. Would it do a lot of damage just driving it as it is? For now I am happy with the big improvement advancing the timing:D. Thanks for all the advice!
     
  6. Sep 8, 2016
    ETZFAM

    ETZFAM FLATIES & ROUND FENDERS, SOME EVEN RUN

    WENATCHEE, WA
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    As long as you do not have the pinging going up a hill, you should be fine, drive it, enjoy it, God knows I have way to many unfinished projects, I get them running and just want to drive them.

    Good Luck
    rick
     
  7. Sep 8, 2016
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor Sponsor

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    The valves in the Dauntless are operated by hydraulic lifters, so there is no "adjustment". The oil pressure keeps the valve clearance at zero lash.
    -Donny
     
  8. Sep 10, 2016
    montanacj

    montanacj Sponsor Sponsor

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    I am cut and pasting this here from this website.

    by Rich Motts

    "If the primary "sequence" is off (50/50 chance), it will probably run, but will have very little power. It may or may not backfire. It will seem like it's running on 3 cylinders, 'cause it is.

    If that's the case, it's no problem. Simply move all the plug wires one tower over, either way, either clockwise or counter clockwise. What you are doing is changing the synchronization between Primary and Secondary.

    It should run on all 6 cylinders now, providing you didn't mix up the firing order.

    But - you may have another little problem now. You may not be able to achieve proper initial timing because the distributor won't swing far enough without hitting something. That's still not a problem. Determine which way you wish you could move the distributor. Now simply move all the wires around the cap 2 terminals in the direction you need it to go. You have to move it 2 terminals at a time to keep it in "sequence." If you only moved it one you'd be back "out of sequence" again.

    The best way to describe it is like a bunch of soldiers marching. Half the platoon was on their right foot, while the other half was on their left. Now we've got them all back in sequence.

    That's the beauty of odd-fire, it's odd.

    Getting it to Run Right - Recurving for Mileage and Performance"
     
  9. Sep 12, 2016
    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude

    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude 1968 Jeepster Commando, 1951 M38a1C

    The Netherlands
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    Ah, I did not know that! :oops:
     
  10. Sep 15, 2016
    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude

    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude 1968 Jeepster Commando, 1951 M38a1C

    The Netherlands
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    I am back in square one :mad:...
    Last few days the jeepster ran quite good and I decided to empty the gas tank, take it of, clean it and check the inside for dirt.
    The tank was actually quite clean, no rust whatsoever, hardly any other stuff that could explain the issues after filling her up.

    I put it back together and put a gallon in from a jerrycan. No problems so fare.

    Than I went to the gas station and filled her up... same issues again. She stutters, barks black clouds, no power. Full throttle helps a little...

    Any clues on what to check next? It must have something to do with the fuel lines / fuel pomp I would say...
     
  11. Sep 15, 2016
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    This has to be frustrating for you. I am really curious about the 20 degrees advanced on timing. Just how much slop do you have in the timing chain? For me if there is more than 20-25* slop then it's time to replace the timing chain/gears.
     
  12. Sep 15, 2016
    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude

    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude 1968 Jeepster Commando, 1951 M38a1C

    The Netherlands
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    Yes it is but challenging at the same time ;)...
    Part of the mystery is solved. I went to a guy who has a little more experience with old school American Engines and tuning Rochester carbs.
    Turned out the P.O. had switched the advance vacuum tube with the gas tank return hose. In practice this resulted in little vacuum on the advance to the ignition and worse, sucking fuel into the carb with a full gas tank!!!
    We took the carb apart and checked all little canals for blockages with no result. We found out that the accelerator pump from the rebuilt kit I ordered had a membrane that was a little loose and would come of when opening full throttle. I put the old one back in and that one worked fine.
    We looked at the float level and drop, lowered the level a little.

    Than we took out the timing light and put the timing back on 5 degrees advanced. He than adjusted the iddle screws and that lead to the following hypothesis:

    Could it be that the P.O. replaced the od firing distributor cap with an even firing one? The right side of the engine seems to miss fire quite a bit. Putting the timing on 20-25 degrees might even out the "even timing" and results in a slightly better running engine than with 5 degrees advanced...

    What do you guys thing?
    How can I check if my cap is even or od?

    Shall I take more pics of the distributor?

    Look forward to your advice!
     
  13. Sep 15, 2016
    montanacj

    montanacj Sponsor Sponsor

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  14. Sep 16, 2016
    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude

    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude 1968 Jeepster Commando, 1951 M38a1C

    The Netherlands
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    This is what I get from the info available:

    1. I have a Delco distributor and Delco has no physical difference in the distributor cap; the contacts are evenly distributed allong the cap:


    2. The physical difference between an even Delco distributor and an odd Delco distributor is the cam; the odd cam has three lobes, the even cam 6 lobes:

    If I count correctly I see three lobes, I'm not sure though. Am I correct or should I take out the distributor to get a closer look?
     
  15. Sep 16, 2016
    montanacj

    montanacj Sponsor Sponsor

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    It wouldn't hurt to look, I didn't re read those links but I do recall someone posting there being a diff pull it off and have a look.
     
  16. Sep 18, 2016
    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude

    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude 1968 Jeepster Commando, 1951 M38a1C

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    Ok, pulled it off, here are the pics:

    120 degrees turn:

    240 degrees turn:

    I see 3 narrow lobes and in between the narrow ones 2 wider lobes, so 9 flat surfaces in total.

    Could this be identified as an odd firing Delco distributor?
     
  17. Sep 18, 2016
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    [​IMG]
    here are two caps that have different tower locations.
     
  18. Sep 20, 2016
    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude

    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude 1968 Jeepster Commando, 1951 M38a1C

    The Netherlands
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    I have the bottom Cap; Delco Remy brand which is in line with the MY of my Jeepster (1968). Thank you for the info.
     
  19. Sep 21, 2016
    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude

    Nekaf&Jeepsterdude 1968 Jeepster Commando, 1951 M38a1C

    The Netherlands
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    Update:
    I think that it is an odd fire distributor after all. Got it running again this morning and it runs fine. My timing light connector broke so I do not know the timing but I tuned it with the vacuum gauge and for now it runs good. Yesterday I watched several youtube video's to get some idea about how a Dauntless should run. I think my engine sounds ok. I'll drive it as it is for a while and start gathering info on rebuilding the engine. Thank you all for the help!
     
  20. Sep 21, 2016
    montanacj

    montanacj Sponsor Sponsor

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    Glad you got it running, not sure if you've seen this website but it's worth a read.

    by Rich Motts
     

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