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1965 Cj5 Body Mount Questions

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Paul Munson, Jan 14, 2020.

  1. Jan 16, 2020
    durk

    durk Member

    Ontario/Canada
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    Hey, Classic Enterprise Jeep parts and Md Juan Jeep philpino parts. Thanks for info Donny
     
  2. Jan 17, 2020
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    What Donny said, after you drill you 1/4" holes to locate the spot, you could cut your pipe spacers and use a step drill to open the bottom up and slip the pipes in and tack them to keep your channels from collapsing. I used 11 gage to make my floors so I didn't need to put spacers in my hat channels. Good Luck.
     
  3. Jan 20, 2020
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    Looking at those pics, gives me motivation. I like the welds and the way you trimmed and capped the ends tapering down.jigs for the welding.
    Good use of clamps and

    On the last hat channels I welded in, I painted them with Cold Galvanizing compound to prevent rust. I think I'll try the rectangular tubing, paint with the Cold Galvanizing Compound where metal meets metal and gets welded and used fluid film to coat the inside of the tubing.

    Dave
     
  4. Jan 20, 2020
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    In my '62 build I'm using the Classic Enterprises floors and hat channels to help speed things up. The bolt holes for the hat channels just have a bit of 1/2" ID tube in them, welded on the bottom. I punched the tops out and have mine on the frame as of last Saturday.

    I centered it with marks front and rear - then lined up the rear valance for depth as I have not put the rear mounts on yet. I did double check with the bolt holes on the bottom of the bed and the top of the frame. In the end I was less than a 1/16" off side to side. With the wrinkles in the body - I'm good :D
     
    Twin2 likes this.
  5. Jan 20, 2020
    durk

    durk Member

    Ontario/Canada
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    Hey Dave, thanks man..way too many hours invested on my floors so far but can’t live with doing things 1/2 assed. That cold galvanizing stuff work good, however a bit difficult to weld over but worth it for the protection . I’m using expoy to put all the sheetmetal parts back together it rocks... perfectly sealed mating metal joints no punching of holes for spot welding and no warppage :( ...win win for glue.
    What thickness rectangle do you think you will use? Do you also have to the replace floor sheet metal?
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2020
  6. Jan 20, 2020
    durk

    durk Member

    Ontario/Canada
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    Warlock it speaks volume that you were off only a 1/16 , I would assume it’s not your first rodeo. I Wanted to give much thanks for putting up suck detailed build pics, they really helped as a blue print to fab up much of my tub. Thanks man
     
  7. Jan 21, 2020
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    That is better than new the frame book had +or- 1/2 inch for a spec that’s huge In body terms.
     
  8. Jan 21, 2020
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Yeah, I was going to say there's no way they were within 1/16" from the factory.
     
  9. Jan 21, 2020
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    This is a great idea. I have used the 2 part epoxy and I have the gun and the Fusor adhesive.
    I do enjoy welding though.
    The replacement panels I formed are out of 18 ga. cold rolled.
    With the rectangular tubing, I think I can go at least 16 ga. not sure.

    [​IMG]

    18ga. cold rolled worked well for rebuilding the tranny cover and patch panels.

    Still thinking.

    Need to get back on this stuff,


    Dave
     
  10. Jan 21, 2020
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member

    Louisville, Ky
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    When attaching my tub to the frame, I used a stainless steel Fastner. I used a carriage type bolt that had a place to put a Allen wrench in the head to tighten it

    Eastwood makes/sells a inside frame coating that is in a spray can. You get a long straw/hose up put on the can to spray up inside the space
     
  11. Jan 21, 2020
    durk

    durk Member

    Ontario/Canada
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    B716B9C4-C34A-4BD1-9673-CD4C66293F0C.jpeg looks good Dave. How’d you get that nice looking factory round conner on bottom of patch panel, using a buck? The green patina awesome. I didn’t really want cut into the side of my tub and ruin the 50yr old patina , but there was no metal left behind or on the factory cowl supports... typical I would think.
     
  12. Jan 21, 2020
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    Yes, I used a buck I made. out of plywood and clamped the piece between.
    Worked well. Got to get all the pics off my old computer that went south this spring and summer and add them to my album.

    Dave
     
  13. Aug 11, 2020
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I'm getting ready to place an order with them and wanted to double check that I need the "Square Tube" version for my '66 V6. As you can see on the bottom of my floor I'm not sure what is OEM and what was added by a PO (or what's missing):
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67d4.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67e4.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67d6.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67f1.jpg

    Hoping maybe @Warloch or @Keys5a can chime in - which of these supports are OEM - the one's with the wood inside, or the Square tubes aft of that?
     
  14. Aug 11, 2020
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    truckee4x4 likes this.
  15. Aug 14, 2020
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    I put the Classic Ent floor supports (and floor) in my '63 Build - you can see how they have worked so far as I'm closing in on the end of the body work.
     
    truckee4x4 likes this.
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