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1961 Rear Bumper/ Cross Member Mounting Delima

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by modadds, Oct 15, 2019.

  1. Oct 15, 2019
    modadds

    modadds New Member

    Sweetwater, Texas
    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2014
    Messages:
    44
    I need to replace the rear bumper/cross member on my 1961 CJ5. I got a new one with rivits. Has anyone just bolted the new cross member on or did they spend the time and put all the new rivits in? If you rivited what technique or process did you use beside welding?
     
  2. Oct 15, 2019
    53A1

    53A1 Member

    Kern Co. Ca.
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2008
    Messages:
    447
    I used short carriage bolts. Turned the dia. on the head and cut a slot with my cut off wheel. Installed them with a combo wrench and large screwdriver then ground the head down to get rid of the slot for the screwdriver. Worked really well and they look exactly like a rivet. Wish I have a link to a picture but photobucket is blurring my images.
     
    65CJ5 SRD and TuxParkIV like this.
  3. Oct 15, 2019
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2014
    Messages:
    4,170
    The rivets are intended to be heated cherry red, and bucked/set usually by an impact tool.
    You can bolt the crossmember on, but be sure to use at least grade 5 bolts.
    -Donny
     
    65CJ5 SRD and Rick Whitson like this.
  4. Oct 16, 2019
    Labeeman

    Labeeman Member

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2016
    Messages:
    125
    I'm doing the same repair on my 63, but besides rivets it was also bolted and welded at the top and bottom of the frame. The welds appeared to be made at the factory from what I can see, as the body would have had to be off to make them. I'm going back with all bolts and welded at the top and bottom. If it needs replacing in 50 years, my kids can take care of that.
     
    65CJ5 SRD likes this.
  5. Oct 24, 2019
    53A1

    53A1 Member

    Kern Co. Ca.
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2008
    Messages:
    447
    I agree they seem to be welded in a few places also. I welded mine in the same places after I used the faux rivets. I had to make the faux rivets very low profile like real rivets because mine has a Marine Corps bumper on top of the rear crossmember and it wouldn't fit otherwise.
     
  6. Oct 24, 2019
    53A1

    53A1 Member

    Kern Co. Ca.
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2008
    Messages:
    447
    My suspicion is that a home riven job is not going to turn out the same as a factor job. I'm not an expert on this subject and didn't want to take a chance knowing that the bolts will definitely work. I would seriously consider my faux rivet idea. You literally cannot tell it's a bolt when you look at it. You don't need to use grade 8 bolts either. Rivets are not grade 8 and that is why they used 8 rivets just to attach the crossmember. Also the why not add the welds back that appear to be factory. I don't know if I would weld the whole thing up and would just add welds where the factory did. Again I'm not an experts so maybe they are designed to twist rather than crack?
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2019
  7. Oct 24, 2019
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,193
    Yes, the original frames were designed to twist/flex as part of the suspension.
     
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