Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by DanStew, Jun 26, 2017.
...and the fine-spline (28 tooth) pinion starting in '78.
I didnt even think of that. i was expecting coarse. i didnt even think about looking up if there was a change over to fine spline
That tie rod looks... Dodgy
WHAT???? I thoguht unlimited adjustability was a good thing. Oh well I guess i cant use it
Well this evening i had a pretty good time in the garage.
The time change has had me not wanting to go out and work in the garage and just didnt have much motivation.
I wanted to get the bulkhead in place and finished so i had to bolt everything on the rear bed to the bulkhead in place. Previously i just had the bolts lightly holding things together. I had an issue with my drivers door being off and i needed to adjust the bulkhead. After playing with it, i need to move the bottom back about 1/4 inch. I cut the outrigger mount off again and moved it. After some more fitting the driver door fit excellent and the gaps match.
After that I decided that I needed to address the grill. I got new headlight buckets in a few weeks ago.
So i installed the new buckets and at the same time i cut off the fan shroud so i can gain more room in the engine bay for a radiator.
Headlights and cut down grill
Room for radiator
After the trim
I talked to a friend who is able to machine me a bushing for the lower end of the steering column. Bringing that to him tomorrow and then i can get the steering figured out.
After that i work on making new pedals for the clutch and brake.
Well broke out Ole' Blue today. I made the sheetmetal brake about 10 years ago. Still working even though it sits under the shelf most of the time
It is time to make the fuel tank. Since a new one is hard to find in England, I dont think i can go to Autozone to get one off the shelf. Fortunately it is pretty much a box.
I had some old Tech cabinet side panels, i had to cut this out with cutoff wheels since the Plasma blew up
I will cut out the side pieces tomorrow an keep at it. I hope this will be a bit easier to seal than my last attempt at a gas tank. I was using flux core wire and kept burning through. I need to research universal fuel line inlets and see if i can match the ohms on the Rover fuel gauge with an aftermarket sending unit.
I'm excited to see this project moving forward again!
It is going together nice. My arms hurt from having to hammer the edges to give it an edge. Cut off the old filler neck and put it on this tank. That as the only piece not rusted out.
Well got some Christmas garage time in today. Repaired and modified the original transmission tunnel to go over the hog of a SM465. And cut some new floorboards. One was original corroded aluminum and the other was a half assed temp floor the previous owner made up. Floors are now steel. I still need to drill the holes for the bolts on the floors. I have my location now for the Tcase shifter handles i have to make for the Dana 18.
Added some more shifters to the Rover. I had to cut off the Shifters to the Dana 18 because the could not be used in the original location. So finally got to mounting the shifters remotely. I still need to make the linkage to connect to the shift rods, but it is nice to actually think the Rig is 4wd. I am going to paint the shift knobs yellow and red like the original Rover handles.
No baffles in the fuel tank?
I didnt. The tank is only about 11 gallons, i didnt think it really needed it. Original one did not have one.
Well it is 4WD now. I have the linkage figured out. I am not in love with the link between the Tcase and Shifters, but It works right now.
I didnt drill a hole through the shift rods, the Dana 18 has a notch the original shifters indexed. I ended up cutting a small piece of steel and drill and tapped a hole in it. It fits into the notch on the shift rods, and I slid over the tubing and used a bolt to hold the threaded piece in place. Locking it so i can remote the shifters
I am going to source some thinner top bolts for this, but right now there are no issues with interference. I am going to add a tack weld to bolt and tube to make sure it doesnt come off.
Then added the tab so i can connect the links to the tcase
Everything shifts fine, I need to drill some holes in the bolts holding the linkage to put cotter pins and add a bracket to hold the out edge of the main bolt holding the shifters to brace it better.
Man! I don't know if I am more amazed or appalled at the amount of work you are putting into this.
Certainly very impressed with your ability, energy, and progress.
BTW, you need to do something about the steering column, it's on the wrong side.
I cant wait to drive it with it on that side. i am working hard to keep it that way. i am hoping to get a Bronco steering gear soon and i can mount it on the inside frame rail on the right side. it should work real good I am debating now on going back to the under floor pedal setup. it might be easier to do than hanging style. i would try to modify a jeep floor pedal setup to work, since the original rover set is gone.
going in the drive thru is always fun in a right hand drive unit, used to fix a mail persons right hand Subaru always took it to the coffee shop to watch the faces on the kids there that hadn't seen something like that before.
Just back through
You'll have a blast with it, especially when some kid realizes that you're driving on the right side and points you out to his dad.
Accomplished a quick little job tonight. It is those little things that are not glamorous in a build, but it goes a long way for functionality. The steering wheel is large and in charge and my legs have a hard time slipping under it to get in the seat. I notched the column bracket an inch and was able to get a whole lot of room to get in and out. I did not want to get rid of the original steering wheel for a smaller one.
The offending bracket notched
The steering wheel position after. Lots of leg room and i dont even have fat legs.
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