Another Dauntless Cooling Discussion.

A little background.

I've been dealing with high engine temps for a while and got it mostly under control after I moved the auto trans cooler that used to be in front of the radiator and that helped a lot. I have a champion rad, shroud, system, 185 thermo, stock but newer water pump, flex fan. Pretty well kept system and runs 180 in the cool season.

My son and I were crawling around in the 100 deg desert heat this weekend and my new gauge peaked out at 210. When we got back I installed a pusher fan I had laying around and tested it out. It ran about 15 deg cooler. I was pretty happy because it's an autozone 10 inch fan and not a lot of cfm's.

After reading mixed reviews for various fans, I went ordered a 13 inch Spal that runs at 1700 cfm. They recommend 2000 cfm min for a v6. I'm hoping I can finally crawl around in 100+ desert temps and run at 180 deg. There were other fans that claim higher cfm's but the reviews were bad. I'm hoping the Spal is overall the best mix of reliability and true reported cfm's.

Anyone running a backup pusher fan?

 

On all 3 of mine
I try to find a 2500cfm or larger, sometimes impossible because of physically fitting between the rad and the grill

 

I could not find one that fit. I'm hoping I didn't go too weak. I'm limited to about 14 inches top to bottom. The Derale fans have higher cfm but mixed reviews.

 

I'm curious what leads to needing the additional fan?
Not criticizing, but never had an issue with my 68 in the socal desert.

 

I am running a pusher fan in front of my radiator. I’m also running a Champion Radiator. I was having heating issues last year on the Rubicon trip, was running 210-215 all trip, even with the pusher fan. Came home and put a fan shroud on that didn’t help. Took radiator to a local shop who tested it and said it was clogged because it wasn’t flowing correctly. I ended up buying a new radiator from Champion and haven't had a problem since. I’m using a 13” SPAL fan set to come on at 180* and shut off at 170*.

 

I have no idea. I've tried everything short of a high volume pump.

 

I’m also running a high flow pump, it didn’t help until I swapped radiator out.

 

That's interesting. I'm going to have mine checked next time I flush it. When I did my water pump, I flushed it the best I could with the garden hose. I wouldn't be surprised if I have the same problem.

How did you clean the cooling system?

 

I was told that they won’t repair the aluminum radiators because cost is more then a new one.

 

I just looked on ebay. They are cheaper than the fan I bought. I think I'm going to do the whole system short of the pump.

I recall when I did my cam & timing chain I couldn't get one of the block drain plugs out. I bet it still had crud even though I flushed it with the hose.

It had sat for at least a decade before I bought it. Crud probably came loose after I started driving it.

 

I had my original radiator boiled as preventive maintenance, but since you're running aluminum I would consider just replacing it. Sounds like flushing the system again would be a great idea too.

 

I ran around 210 most of the two rubicon trips ive been on. I think its the altitude, not rejetting the carb on top of all the low speed 4low driving. This year ill be fuel injected so we will see how high the temps get on the rubicon, it ran cool in Colorado.

 

I went through a period of running-hot-creep issues as well as hot under-hood temps. I tried everything. Which each change it improved slightly and ultimately ended up with a pusher fan behind the grill, which really helps when I need it.

I ended up with the Champion radiator, flex fan and shroud, the high-flow water pump, hood vents and a 14” electric Perma Cool pusher fan on a toggle switch. I only need the electric fan for high load situations. It will stay under 190 throughout a Rubicon run. The Perma Cool fan moves some serious air. It’s kind of loud and draws 12-15 amps. I painted it black and it’s not really visible unless you really look. I think it’s a good option. Seems like there’s some bad reviews but I’ve had no problems in 5 years.

14” Perma Cool

 

I would put a little dish soap in the cooling system and run it for a few days before you tear it apart and flush the cooling system.

 

My Jeep ran warm while 4 wheeling, 210-220 degrees. Homemade shroud and a 7 blade fan, now it stays at 180.

 

Thanks everyone.

I'll give the Spal a try since I already ordered it and going to replace the radiator and thermostat after a flush. I went ahead a wired up a toggle switch at the dash for the test fan and it goes through my fuse block. Should be a quick install and I'm pretty confident because I had success with the 10 inch fan as a test.

I'm planning on nothing custom for the pusher fan install. I ordered the mounting brackets with the Spal and I already have some radiator zip ties. I hate sticking them though the radiator but that's the plan. There isn't much room to work with in front of the radiator.

I want to hit up some mines with my new gold pan so I'm wanting to hurry this as much as possible without doing a sloppy & unreliable job.

 

Sounds like you’ve got it figured out now. FWIW, I would avoid the zip-tie/zip-through the radiator method if at all possible. I’ve had those damage a radiator out on a trail before and cause a terrible leak. If your rig has the factory cowl, a simple fan bracket is pretty easy to make.

 

That's a good idea. I'm not sure how I'm going to do this and have it flush against the radiator. I'll have to think on it.

Edit: I'm going to do something like this

https://www.advanceadapters.com/4788

 

I used slotted metal plating for mounting my trans cooler on my armchair wheeler. While it's an entirely different part I wonder if that would let you get close enough to the radiator. Maybe rivet the plate to the fan?

 

I have pics of how I mounted my fan to front of radiator Post #352.
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/85306/page-18