1963 Us Navy Dj-3a

I'm very happy with the kit with the exception of the carb cable end.

Here's the current ebay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/276202299626?_trksid=p4375194.c101949.m162918

Here's the new cable end I have coming: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-WCA-1034

 

That looks so good!

 

I was back onto the floorboards today because these cheapo shifter boots showed up from Amazon:


The are exactly the size I want for the transfercase shifters but it needs to be a double boot. Time to start modifying things. They have a nice wire loop in bottom for structure. The plan is to attach both boots to a single wire:


Wire removed so I can sew the two boots together. It's a bit of a farce because it's the 4th time I've sewn anything in the last 40 years:


Sewn together in the middle:


Bah! The bobbin ran out of thread. I use the sewing machine so rarely, I had to get out the diagram so I could wind up the bobbin and re-thread everything. I managed to get through it:


The two boots sewn together and to the frame:


Back out in the shop, I dug out the Oxy Acetylene setup so I could bend the transfercase shifters:


They needed to be bent forward away from the passenger seat, and a little to the left for transmission tunnel clearance. You can see the hot spots where I bent them:


I needed a bezel for the new double shift boot. This old Hurst one that came with the Jeep was the right length, but too wide:


It got cut up:


And welded back together:


Fitting it to the tunnel to drill holes for rivnuts:


I also drilled holes to attach my shift tower to the tunnel and thought I was going to be able to button this all up tonight and then.....

I didn't bend the high/low shifter over low enough down, so it's still too close to the edge of the hole:


The boot looks good though and work in all shifter positions:


You can see a missing bolt in the shift tower box in the above picture because the transmission is too close under that spot. I need to weld that hole up and drill a new one 1" to the left.

Between needing to get the torch out to bend the shifters again, needing to weld up that hole, and also needing to pack for a trip tomorrow, I called it a night.

Good progress today though. Once these items are done, the inside of the Jeep can go back together.

 

Something change your mind on the Stronghold boots? I was looking at them for my Jeep, though I'm a bit late to the game.

 

First, they haven't shown up yet even though I ordered them on Dec 1st. I think Christmas season is a bad time to order from them. I can't bolt the main part of the tunnel down until I have the transfercase boot installed, and I just want to get the interior put together. I'll still use a stronghold boot for the transmission and can add that later since it attaches to a removable piece.

Second, I finally found some measurements for the Dual shift lever boot I ordered for 76-79 CJs and it's way too big to fit. The trim ring is something like 9"x4". I guess I'll sell that once it shows up. This one: https://www.strongholdshiftboots.com/product-page/76-79-cj-d20-twin-stick-transfer-case-shift-boot

The standard D18 one doesn't have enough travel since my floor is raised up over the pivots: https://www.strongholdshiftboots.com/product-page/1941-71-dana-18-twin-stick

When I was ordering this stuff, I was having issues navigating their web site and completely missed this one: https://www.strongholdshiftboots.com/product-page/81-93-dodge-np205-transfer-case-boot-twin-stick. I have that same trim ring for the overdrive in my '71. It's about 6"x3" and would have been perfect. Too late now. I'm moving on.

 

All that said, there are tons of cheap shift boots on Amazon if you're tight on cash. The quality is nothing like the Stronghold boots though.

 

Exactly the same for me. I used something else also

 

I ordered the pedal assembly just now. I recently tried to modify my current pedal but only managed to lower it maybe an inch at the most. This looks much better.

 

https://jb-custom-fabrication.mysho...ducts/copy-of-shifter-boot-twin-stick-p-n-tsb

Another source with options. All their products I’ve used have been top quality.

 

Hmm, I like those. And they're in stock. It's nice that they have the measurements available.

Thanks for the link.

 

I got back in town yesterday and worked on more boring floorboard details.

The Stronghold shift boots showed up. It's longer than I prefer, but I could have made the Stronghold transfercase boot work:


Too late now.

I welded up the poorly located hole on the shifter tower box:




Then I drilled holes through the Stronghold shifter bezel and shift tower box. The box got Riv-nuts. Here I am marking the holes on the shift boot itself:


Even though the Sharpie is black, you can still see the dots:


I used the old leather punch to make clean holes:


Nice!


I dug the torch back out and bent the shift rods some more. Now they are centered in the hole when the tunnel is bolted down:


This is what the final setup will look like:




I'll paint the things that need it tonight.

My original goal was to get the Jeep running before I started upgrades, but I have the 3.15 gears and D18 rebuild kit sitting on my bench. I might as well just do that job so I don't have to pull these floorbaords again up in a month.

Transfercase coming out next I think.

 

I decided to do the needed grinding for a front 1310 U-joint yoke before pulling the transfer case out. I want nothing to do with the tiny V6 1210/1100 yoke currently at the top end of the front driveshaft.

The previous owner had already ground part of the transmission stiffening rib but there was only about 3/8" clearance to the V6 1210 Yoke:


The driveshaft itself is also very close to the front of the rib, so started by cutting it off with a cutoff wheel:


Then it was fun time with the flapper disk:


It was time to test the 1310 yoke. It just clears:


...but the corresponding driveshaft yoke still hits. You can see the brown mark where it rubs. Back to grinding:


Finally, after a LOT more grinding, this is the driveshaft about where full bump will be (it's also right at hitting the starter/bellhousing). The new Tom woods shaft will be smaller in this area, so I'm calling it good:


The yoke has somewhere between 1/16" and 1/8" of clearance. The Tom woods shaft will be a little leaner in this area too. Good enough:


The final damage. I'm sure I turned over a pound of cast iron into dust, but everything clears. Thank goodness these cases are thick:


I think there are two things that made this tougher than T.M.s conversion:

1. The AA adapter setup in this Jeep is 4" long while the Novak adapter is 4.4" long. That makes a SIGNIFICANT difference in U-joint clearance.
2. I have the 64-67 ribbed case. The non-ribbed case would need a lot less grinding.

This the grinding dust on the floor about halfway through. Such fun while laying on your back:


I also tossed a standard 1310 yoke on the back to gain 1/2" driveshaft length over the parking brake flange setup. Every little bit counts:


Then I measured for driveshafts and sent Tom Woods some money. The driveshafts will probably be here before I get the transfercase back in. The old rear driveshaft will work as a trail spare.

 

I didn't realize the AA adapter was shorter, but I see it now based off of where the D18 shifters land on yours vs mine. The ConDiesel transmissions like I have all have the case ribbing, as they were mostly if not all made post '67. Still trying to figure out the front yoke situation, so I don't really know if I'm anywhere close to good on the case grinding really. Fingers crossed. I believe the non-ribbed cases require no grinding, at least from what I've read.

Good work getting that done. It's interesting that the PO started it and gave up.

 

Transfercase is out. I should have used Howards Jack adapter:


I did leave enough room in my floorboard cutout to pull the transfercase without dropping the crossframe and transmission mount. The rest of the drivetrain is still solidly bolted in:


Boo! Glitter! (a lot more than the picture shows) It's good I'm going through this thing:


Some of the glitter is probably from these pitted intermediate teeth breaking down. The rest of the gears are great. It's a little surprising this is the only gear with pitting:


The rest of the glitter is probably from the intermediate shaft. It's definitely good it's getting a rebuild:




It hasn't done the thrust bearings any favors:


Amazingly, the inside of the gear seems fine. They are made of tougher stuff than the shaft:


In spite of the glitter, the rest of the bearings look and feel fine. They are getting replaced anyway:




Completely diassembled and ready for the fun job of cleaning/paint:


Once it's clean, the Novak rebuild kit and 3.15 gears are ready to go:


I need to remember to remove the pill so I can do 2wd low range.

 

Careful, I’ve heard that can lead to breakage.

 

When I did the AA Bearing conversion in mine, I couldn't find a single machine shop in Colorado Springs that would touch it. Even tried places that did aerospace and prototype work!

 

Probably there was water in there when it was just sitting, the intermediate gear being the biggest gear was reaching deep enough to be in the water that had settled to the bottom, rusting the few teeth that was below the oil/water separation line. A lot of the glitter could be from the scoring/galling of the intermediate shaft and the thrust washers.

 

After almost three hours of scraping and scrubbing, the transfercase and parts I'm re-using are cleaned and ready for reassembly:


This showed up yesterday:




We'll see how much I hate steering it in 4wd. It'll probably get selectable lockers in the future, but this (along with the locker that's already in the back) is cheap traction in the near term. I'll probably go ahead and throw this in the front axle before I fill it with oil. I'll also do the axle shaft U-joints while I'm at it.

 

Denver Creek is still thawed