1963 Us Navy Dj-3a

And the EFI install just moved to the front of the queue----

 

in the short term, throw a set of jet extensions and a notched float in the front bowl, but yeah, if that kind of offroading is in the Jeeps future, EFI will keep it from stalling out.

 

You sure this is a TA?
I thought these carburetors already had all the usual off-road mods like the jet extensions, vent whistle, etc.

 

My 2g is fussy about hard nose over and I'm guilty of keeping the bowl level a little on the low side. Otherwise it's great.

 

unless he bought it new, god only knows what some folks have done with them prior to our stewardship.... First things I do is tear a used carb down and rebuild it, and replace with all the factory setting parts... at least then I have a good baseline for what the carb was supposed to be, and not someone elses idea of what works....

 

Didn't accomplish much on the Jeep last night. Was too busy cleaning the garage and digging out the manifold and 2G carburetor to see if I have everything I need. Hood clearance will be a problem with a 2G. It's over an inch taller than the Holley setup. I think the home made mounts have the engine sitting higher than stock mounts would. Some sort of custom carburetor neck and offset air cleaner would be required.

I did install some oak hood blocks from Quarter Ton Military. I hit them with a little teak oil before install:

 

It's been bugging my that both the VIN tags are missing off this thing and I can't find the chassis serial on the frame in front of the passenger firefwall. The 23099 serial number on the title puts it as a March 1963 build and matches with what the Jeep is.

I don't know why they were removed, but you can see the holes where the Jeep VIN tag was on the firewall, and where the Navy tag was on the dash (obscured by the roll cage):


Amazingly, someone on e-bay had a NOS unstamped US Navy Tag for a 1965 DJ-5.


It's the same physical tag this jeep had oringally and lines up with the screw holes::


I overstamped the 5s to 3s and added the serial number. The contract number and FSN aren't correct for a FJ-3, but nobody will really know that:


I moved it over in the Jeep so the cage isn't hiding it:


If it wasn't $95.00, I'd be tempted to get the under hood tag too. The full VIN would be 56337 23099 on that tag (for a DJ-3A).

 

No matter what carburetor or fuel injection I end up with, an O2 bung in the exhaust will be helpful for tuning.

I marked a good spot ion the Y-pipe before pulling it out of the Jeep. With the V-band clamp and brass nuts on the manifolds, it popped out super easy:


Hole drilled:


Bung welded on:


Back in the Jeep. Then sensor clears everything and the wire routes away from the exhaust:


I've got an AEM air/fuel Ratio gauge I need to get mounted under the dash and wired tonight. It will be temporary just for tuning. Once I'm done tuning, I'll pull the gauge out and screw plug in the Y-pipe.

 

You just did the hardest part of a fuel injection install…….
Just saying…

 

Oh yes. I am very aware.

 

This a cool build! A nod to the history of the military Jeep but built to be used for your purpose.
This Jeep just looks cool, and you have a great place to enjoy wheeling it.
Progress is coming quickly.

Looking Good!

Dave

 

Thanks! I appreciate the compliments.

 

Temporary AFR gauge for tuning installed:

 

Swapped in the longer drag link on Saturday.

Drove around a bit with the AFR gauge. Idle and off idle are good ranging from 14-16:1. Once you start getting into the main jets, it goes way lean. Like over 27:1 and maxing out the gauge lean. I'm thinking there are clogged passages in the carb for it to be that bad with the original #57 jets. Not surprising since I couldn't dip the main body in my carb cleaner bucket.

I did find a cheap 390cfm carb. I'm going to swap the spring loaded needle valves into it and see how that runs. It can't be this bad.

 

I think this is a common problem, mostly a product of modern fuel (ethanol) If I lay into my large bore 2g for a good pull my temps climb leading me to believe it's lean (I know the vacuum is good) When I can find ethanol free fuel it behaves better. Such a crap shoot to tune a carb for long idling (off roading) and part throttle driving.

 

My new carburetor didn't show up yesterday because it is signature required, and the mailman didn't want to take the time to come up out 3/4 mile driveway. They just put a "delivery attempted" notice in the mailbox even though both my wife and I were home all day.

So I did a couple other things that needed to get done.

I used my new Mityvac brake bleeder to bleed the rear brakes:


It uses compressed air to make a vacuum. So much better than a hand vacuum pump. It took all of a couple minutes to bleed the brakes better than I could with the hand pump, a pressure pump, or manual pedal pumping. Highly recommended for $113: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CDZP9CN

Apparently you can also use it to pressure bleed brakes and fill/empty engines/transmissions, ...etc.

After that, it was time to add coolant. The original radiator was full of not-so-pretty stuff:


When I got it running, I decided to run some straight water in it first to flush out the system. Draining the water was fun. The radiator has a plug instead of a spigot:


When the plug came undone, the water shot four feet back under the Jeep, no where near the drain pan. That was a mess:


Definitely a little rust still in the system, but it's not too bad:


New 50/50 mix added.

 

I have the HF version for $30. Works like a charm. So easy.

 

I didn't know they had one. I should have looked there first.

 

The new/used Holley 390 finally showed up:


Installed:


What a difference. The old carb definitely has some clogged passages. This one runs fantastic and the AFR is showing slightly rich in most conditions like you would expect. Close enough that it doesn't need any tuning at all. I can finally go uphill under load and I can finally take the Jeep out on the streets!

A coupe things I still need to do with this carb:

• Install spring loaded needles
• Extend the vents - which is a little tricky do to low hood clearance
• Figure out why I can't idle it down as low as I want. The idle screw becomes loose at about 700rpm and I can't go any lower. I think I have a vacuum leak somewhere. I test plugged the PCV port, so it's not that. I'll spray some carb cleaner around it and see if anything shows up. I'll also pull the carb and verify that all the blades are completely closing too.

 

good to hear the new carb is running and behaving. You likely have some "stuff" built up on the secondary side behind the metering plate. The primary side is simpler, in that the metering block comes off and all the pertinent passages are routed through that. IIRC there is a kit to convert the plates to a block with a longer crossover tube, which would allow you to change secondary jets easier as well....