Fitech Efi Install On 78 Cj5, Take 2

So, with all the things I could be fixing, I decided to reinstall the Fitech, ...... why, .... well I've been thinking. It was noted in my other thread of this name, that the system didn't like getting hot. When the Jeep was new, the 2bbl carb had a thick insulator gasket on. So I looked and found a thick 4bbl gasket. I already have a 1 inch aluminum riser and I put the thick gasket on top and installed the efi. I also have a blower, ..... (bilge pump) that I used to suck in outside air and cool the carb. I rerouted this to the air cleaner to hopefully provide cooler air to the FiTech unit. I also have some thermoelectric cooling chips that I am thinking about adapting to the air intake to cool the air more.

After everything was installed I noticed the fuel pump was leaking. I grabbed the spare and no more leak. I put and old backup into the ECU and it started right up.

Another reason I put the efi back on, is the edelbrock carb ran like . It ruined my trip experience this last time. It acted at low rpms, 2 or 3 cylinders would drop out, and as rpms increased they would come back causing a lurching back and forth. Making it almost impossible to drive rough terrain offroad. I had many more places I wanted to go, but couldn't.

My test drive was successful, with no problems, ..... unless you count had a terrible time getting the pump nozzle in my gas fill. Thats another thing to fix.

More cooling to follow.
Jay

p.s. no photos this time.

 

Don't bother woth the thermoelectric (pelter) coolers they don't have the thermal capacity you need.

 

Refresh my memory; what engine, trans? Which Fitech?
I'm currently using the GoStreet 30003 on my SBC 350.
I literally fried the original unit after I updated the ECU, so I bit the bullet and bought a new unit when they had a 15% off sale. At least now i'm under warranty. Working through a bug or two...
Funny, when the original died the first time (old ECU) I bought an Edelbrock AWS. That carb was such a PITA...
Looking forward to your tale.

 

Sorry about that, I am running the 304, bored .030 over. T-18 trans, Dana 20. FiTech 30003. I bought Fitech in 2016 and installed it in 2017. I had problems, and once I got it running, it wouldn't data log, They had me update the firmware, and data logging now works. (After the update FiTech stopped responding to my requests) I fought it stranding me on and off, until 2020. We went out to take care of my mother-in-law in California for 3 months. While there, I went to 5 Palms in Brawley, Ca. On the way back to Hesperia a 6 hour trip took over 12 hours. Since I had been having problems, I brought the Edelbrock carb. so I removed the FiTech in April 2021.

While it was having problem, I was data logging the issue. No response from fitech but I posted the files here and member 45es looked at the files and noted the problem occurred when hot.
I have since learned more about the numbers and what they mean. i.e. the Air Fuel Ratio AFR is set to 13.6, but when its hot and you deaccelerate the AFR shoots to 19 which is super lean and the TPS would drop to 0 no mater what you did with the accelerator peddle and the engine dies. It will restart only once it has cooled down. SO, I am hoping the fresh air intake will help. If it happens again, I'll be adding the coolers.

I just took it for it's first test drive ( 20 miles round trip ) and it ran fine, no surging, I don't have a mechanical issue like weak or bad lifters or cam, which I was worried about.

While waiting, I need to fix the gas fill and replace the brake lines going to the rear. They have a weep leak.

Jay

 

Any other ideas for cooler air???

 

Trash can the aluminum spacer and get yourself a phenolic spacer.

 

Could you drive it with the hood off to test the idea that more airflow solves the problem?

 

OK, That sounds cool, ( pun intended )
I hadn't seen those before, Excellent Idea Thank you

 

I think you need to fix what is wrong with the current state instead of "making it work". Test your sensors, wires, and connections. Ensure there are no intake or exhaust leaks. The phenolic spacer will be good for component life, you could use a steel heat shield on your exhaust and intake, hood scoop etc but a 0 reading should not occur. It's loosing connection somewhere. It may be a connection is not solid and become loose with heat or interference in the system, chafed insulation etc.

 

1st I looked up Phenolic Carburetor Spacer Amazon $80, Ouch. ( I'm cheap) Then I saw some that were just open bore hole instead of the 4 holes. I went to YouTube........ saw a guy explaining different styles. He even had a wooden one now there's an interesting idea, ........ BTW the open bore style is for increasing the plenum size. ......... now I've got to look up what that does for me.

Just when you think you know everything, ya find out ya don't know nuthin.

 

I think you can buy the material on grainger or McMaster then cut with a dremil.

 

Not worth trying to make one when they are only $12 on eBay…..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3348284832...MIzrzb65jZhwMVVA6tBh2LHgROEAQYASABEgK6IvD_BwE

 

Yeah I saw that but if you look at the details it says Plastic, ........ Don't think so

 

On a side note, my blue top optima battery is starting to fail, or at least I think so. I was also thinking it could be the starter.
When I was on a trip, 2018 I believe, I noticed the Jeep was getting harder to start. So I bought a starter motor to carry as a spare. Well it's getting worse. Maybe I'll take it to FLAPS and have then load test it. The reason I'm fairly sure it's the battery. When I start it the voltage drop to 5V. or something, then I engage the spare battery and it fires right up.
Better safe than throwing parts at it.

 

ad states Carburetor Spacer Material: Phenolic Plastic isnt this what they are made of anyway?

 

Yes.

https://www.atlasfibre.com/phenolic-material/




https://qcpinc.net/industrial-plastics/phenolic/

G10/FR4 also has a phenolic matrix and glass fiber, but I believe the general term 'phenolic' implies a natural fiber reinforcement like paper or cloth.

I know the Ford and Jeep insulators are hard plastic, not fiber reinforced. Not a bad thing - should not be an issue.

 

@Desert Runner ; I see you bought the unit in '16; have you physically replaced the ECU? Part of the problem with the original was it got too hot! There's a visible difference between the ECU's , the latter mod being larger and wire routing is different, and it comes with a new fuse holder.
Also, have you checked the other Fitech sensors? The original H2O in mine was reading way low. When I replaced it several issues resolved themselves. Not sure how you would check the O2 unit though.

I'm surprised the when you were in SoCal youdidn't just drive over to Fitech. I went to a Dyno Day there and got all sorts of help. But currently the master tech is on maternety leave... FWIW I've gotten the best help from the guy with the heavy Spanish accent; he's come up with solutions the others missed.

As for cooling, I have the same problem with my Wagon and the SBC. I'm going to rig an in-line bilge blower to help exhaust hot air from the engine bay. I'll hook it up to the Fitech fan control so it comes on at a particular engine temp. I'm also looking at adding louvers behind the "4 Wheel Drive" emblems so at least they won't be so obnoxious. Just gotta talk @Norcal69 into doing it when he does my tranny swap

Post a pic of your Fitech on your engine with the air cleaner please

 

Oh All very interesting points, things that I guess I need to look at. Replacing the ECU at this point is expensive about $300, 250 for the ECU and 54 for a different cable since my current one wouldn't work I've thought about doing it.
When I When I was in SoCal was in the middle of COVID everybody was closed.
I really haven't checked anything since I took it off. I did read they did an exchange with a lot of people, I should have been in that group, I think, but when they stopped talking to me, I just disengaged. I didn't even want to see the word FiTech, much less pay aqny attention to what they might be doing.

I also looked into getting someone to help fine tune this thing, ...... but the shop in North Canton ohio charges $1000 to tune Aftermarket systems.But they would tune the Holey system for $350

My next step is to put on a phenolic spacer in place of the aluminum one. Then drive it, to see if it fails again.

 

I have the spacer installed, Next is to fix the gas fill and start putting miles on, and see what happens. ........



problem is, ..... my son has emptied his wife's car and piled it all in front of the Jeep. Her car has/had an infestation of carpet beetle larvae, Gug bombed the car, vacuumed clean, wash interior, rebomb and it's now sitting for a few days all closed up. .......

 

Any luck testing sensors?