Electric Cooling Fan For V6

Anyone else out there running an electric fan set up with the larger radiator on the v6? I was thinking about getting rid of the mechanical fan and switching to electric. Any help would be great.

 

In addition to the mechanical, we are running this 12” electric fan on our V6. It came on the grille/radiator when my dad bought it in the 80’s for his V6 conversion. It was mounted on the outside as a pusher but I switched it to a puller and mounted it on the inside of the radiator.

It’s got a copper probe mounted in the top radiator hose and we have it set to kick on around 220F (I think). We haven’t driven the vehicle yet so I don’t know how well it works or doesn’t work, but I do know it turns on.

hope this was somewhat helpful.

 

I run an electric fan as a pusher…. And a mechanical fan with shroud. I only use the electric fan in high demand situations…four wheeling for example, on a difficult hill climb. I run a PermaCool 14” high cfm fan behind the grill on the radiator bolted to a custom bracket. My system works well and I like it. I did this because I was dealing with running hot and heat gremlins and this combination was only part of the solution. You need to make sure your electrical system is up to the task. A good fan can draw 15-20+ amps.

IMO Joe Adam’s solution works…but it gives up a lot of efficiency without a shroud. In addition, bolting directly through the radiator is asking for trouble. That needs a frame/bracket to attach to. It will move / wiggle around some, and it’s likely to cause radiator damage and leaks (btdt). Not worth the risk.

Lastly, I think you’ll find most folks will tell you to stick with the mechanical fan and get a proper shroud. Are you having issues with the current set-up?

 

Why would you want to lose the mechanical fan? I put a pusher fan in front with offset brackets that attach to the radiator bolts. About 18-20 amps. It can run off the thermostat or manual.

 

After reading Sierra’s comment, I probably should have mentioned that I live at sea level and our Jeep will likely never see a trail. Our engine may get hot but it will probably never see a very heavy load or high sustained temps unless something fails.

 

Is love to get the proper shroud but they are hard to find. I suppose I could set it up as a pusher and keep the mechanical fan. I believe I do only have a 37 amp alternator, so I’d have to switch that one out for a 55 amp. This will most likely be a project for the future they are nice to have for extra cooling when needed

 

You need a fan shroud.

 

An electric fan is quite useful for auxiliary / additional cooling if you need it. I felt like I needed it. Yes, you will want a larger alternator than what you have for a high quality e-fan. If a guy bothers with it, a cheap fan isn’t really worth it.

The 10si/12si alternator upgrade is easy, affordable and you will have output options ranging from 60ish to 150 amps +. Wiring upgrades are necessary to accommodate the increased current.

PartsDude4x4 has fan shrouds for the 22” ecj5 radiator.

 

I have an electric fan for my 2a with Buick v6. It's mounted on the front of the radiator, which is a 60s Mustang v8 unit. There was no room for a mechanical fan, it would fit between the motor and radiator, but would not clear the lower radiator hose so I didn't have many options without reconfiguring everything. I think it's a 14" fan, high cfm, that I picked up at AutoZone. It covers the entire radiator so I haven't added a shroud to it. I haven't driven it in summer temps yet, but so far it hasn't risen above 180. The wiring is important as has been stated previously. I'm running a Painless kit with an 80 amp Camaro alternator, if I remember right.

 

My fan shroud somehow ended up in four pieces. Not sure what it is made of. Glassed the it all back together and reinforced on the inside. Was not too difficult.
I would recommend glassing any stock shroud as they are so brittle.

 

SPAL 14" pusher fan on a narrow radiator ...30102056.

 

I just did this upgrade, running a 14” SPAL fan as a pusher mounted to front side of radiator. Running a thermostat to turn on at 190 or I can override it and turn it off and on by a toggle on the dash. I’m still running the mechanical fan with a fan shroud. Haven’t had a chance to test it yet as I haven’t put in new water pump yet. I was having issues with the temp climbing wile crawling or in stop and go traffic in temps above 90.

 

Ayuh,..... The biggest fan that'll fit, With a shroud, even if ya gotta build yer own shroud,.....

 

Here’s the two speed fan with shroud that I used. The shroud is almost exactly the size of my Champion Radiator. It’s not cheap but is working very well. Mine is triggered by the Holley Sniper TBI.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16823


I did have to move the radiator forward a couple inches (that’s a bit of a project by itself). I looked back on my build for details but I guess I didn’t document it well.

 

2X. All sorts of mechanical fans available. I use a completely rigid six blade steel version (Flex-a-lite 106285) in my 3B, no flex blades, and again, as large as you can fit. The shroud is absolutely essential and it should be closely fit with minimal air leaks. If you have that paired with a decent radiator, no need for an electric. For the sbc in the 3B, I also increased the water pump speed 15% and am using a FlowKooler (1880) high flow pump. Last, throw in a bottle of water wetter-the stuff works.

Some of this definitely gets back to the intended use but the above works great off-road. It does cost you some efficiency on-road.

 

Listing the basics that need to be addressed before making system changes:
Thermostat in place and functioning properly.
Bypass or heater loop in place clean and flows well.
Water pump clean and flows well.
Crank and waterpump pulleys standard size or in overdrive configuration with a good tight belt and good belt to pulley contact.
14lb pressure cap in place and functioning.
Block clean and flows well.
Any intake manifold coolant system clean and in place.
Then radiator condition
Check the lower hose is firm and does not collapse.
An overflow bottle let's the radiator hold a bit more coolant which helps evenly distribute the flow on the top tank.
Then you have the fan and the coupling on the shaft (can't think of it at the moment) and fan shroud.
A mechanical fan can reliably move a lot of air. An electric fan adds the thermostatic switch, wiring and electrical load on the alternator.

 

Looks like it was made for it.

 

That's a big *** fan. No application for a 3B. Size matters but so does blade pitch. I could find no specs. for depth or blade pitch.
One review said he put it on and went back to stock because overheating with this fan...sbc. Who knows, amazon.
Your 19-1/4" is for racing and rated for 6000 rippems. It is designed to use less horsepower at high speed. I guess you will find out. Some say the blades are silver, others say steel and some say stainless.

 

Look up Perma-Cool electric fans at Summit. They list a variety of fans with nearly or equal CMF for quite a bit less cost. You do need to buy or make your own shroud. They are single speed fans, but the big difference is the electrical draw. An example is a 16" fan with a 2350 CFM and only a 11 amp. draw.

Perma-Cool 19126 Perma-Cool Standard Electric Fans | Summit Racing

 

Single Powerpacks : Powerpack - High Output Single 17'' Electric RAD Fan/Aluminum Shroud Kit - 21''W x 16 3/4''H x 3''D (derale.com)