Steel Vs Aluminum Wheels

Trying to decide if lighter wheels will be worth it! Looks like about 1/2 the weight at 32lbs for my Cragar 15x10 vs about 17lbs for a random aluminum rim. How much benefit can I hope for with stopping and performance not trying to spin big hunks of steel?

 

On a Jeep, I highly doubt that theres a noticable difference.

 

.1 seconds for every 10 pounds in the quarter mile.. I highly doubt you are drag racing that Cj though..

 

We used to purchase forest service vehicles at auction and flip em for some side money...... Not just a couple...... Like the DMV was after me to get a dealers license......
All forest service vehicles came with standard steel wheels. I had a hookup through the local major tire chain for aluminum Chevy take off wheels. Going from steel wheels to to aluminum was a huge improvement in drive/ride quality on a 1/2 ton Chevy pickup. There was even a small seat of the pants increase in acceleration due to less rotating mass.
These old jeeps suffer from lots of vibration issues at highway speed. Roll formed steel wheels, like most wagon wheels, US wheels, Steelies, ect, may balance out ok on the machine, but if you ever watch em spinning on the balancer they almost always have a little wobble to them. Aluminum wheels always run truer than steel and require less weight to balance.

 

Another that thinks it does make a difference, especially on the highway if you have an anemic power plant under the hood. Off road, it's not really too noticeable as there are so many other factors in play.

I've always been of the opinion that every 10 lbs of additional weight costs about 1 hp. That shows up in every aspect of the performance, from mileage to acceleration to top speed.

 

I concur with the other comments about having a insignificant difference. I say....go with what would look better on the jeep.

 

Steel is arguably better in terms of durability and less likely to incur damage that cannot be readily repaired on the trail.
Narrow and smaller tires will do more to reduce unspring weight than just reducing the wheel weight alone.
Less unspring weight will reduce stress on the drivetrain, steering and brakes.
I’m a huge fan of skinny over wide both offroad and onroad.
That said I prefer steel wheels due to increased durability and ease of trail repairs.
4-1/2” x 16” stock steel weight 19 pounds while optional heavy duty 5” x 16” weigh 24 pounds each.
And I opt for the heavy duty wheels but keep tire narrow and tall as possible.

 

I once put a truck with alloy wheels in the ditch, it bent the axle shaft, I've wondered if a steel wheel would have sacrificed itself before the axle shaft.

For the cars it's alloy hands down.
For the jeep i'ld go steel. At the bare minimum it will hold up a little better against rock scrapes.
Alloy wheels with steel bead locks / rock rings look about as good as it gets

 

My perspective is long term looks and upkeep. Easy to paint steel.

 

Alloy wheels come in different flavors, forged, cast, billet, etc. they all have different qualities. Steel are no different, welded, riveted, drop center, safety bead vs. no safety bead, tube vs. tubeless.
Bottom line, get what makes you all warm and fuzzy and move on.

 

The AMC 7” Renegade alloys (one of my favorites) are forged aluminum and are probably as strong, maybe stronger than a regular steel wheel. For on the road, the lightest tire/wheel combo makes a difference in braking and steering shake.
Off road at low speed, the rotating mass has less effect.
-Donny

 

I have a 2002 F350 dually with aluminum wheels. It came with four aluminum wheels and the inside dually wheels had steel rims. The aluminum rims were much thicker than the steel rims. I became tired of constant rim leaks with the aluminum wheels. I now have all steel rims and 387,000 miles on the truck.

 

TBH, I have had more bead sealing issues on multiple rigs with alloy wheels than steel.
I have a set of mid 80's Z28 rims that leak like the Titanic......

 

*crosses his fingers*

I've got a set of 16" steelies on my CJ that I got years ago from nickmil, and had powdercoated, they're not even properly *round* anymore, and they haven't leaked a bit since I had the tires mounted on them, I could walk out there right now, and I can almost guarantee you that they'll have the same pressure they did when I last aired them up probably a year ago. I'm honestly flabbergasted at how much they don't leak, given the age, and actual level of corrosion (There's no rust, they were sandblasted before being coated, but you can obviously see pitting through the powdercoat) and not being round.

 

Sorry to say I don’t remember the transaction but there have been so many over the years. I’m sorry. If they are too bad I’ll refund your money. The last 16” steel wheels I remember selling was to Karl, forget his last name. Dr. Verne from I think JP Magazine.

 

Man, they've been holding air for like six years, and you gave me a good deal on them, I've got *zero* complaints at all. Its all good.
I knew they were used when I bought em, and the pitting is on the inside of the rim, can't even see it.

I was only relaying the information to folks as some anecdotal evidence about steel wheels generally being pretty rugged.

 

Ok, cool. I always want any deal I do for everyone involved to be satisfied.

 

I have the exact set of Z28 (1983 15” 5 spoke) wheels on my Corvair, and they used to leak. I refinished the with basecoat/clearcoat years ago, spraying the inner beads with a heavy clearcoat. The car is in my NC garage and the tires hold air for years at a time now.
I have skinny 16” rims on one of my Wagons with 50 year dry rotted old tires. I put a little air in them every couple years, but they have inner tubes. Many of our original steelies were intended to run with inner tubes.
If moisture gets down in the bead of an alloy wheel, you get corrosion in there, causing the leaks. Its even worse if you store the wheels w/tires laying flat outside exposed to rain. The water seeps into the bead easier.
-Donny

 

I just bought a 1973 CJ5 and has the original aluminum radial design wheels. The tires have lots of tread and are Sears from 1994 !!!
I really like them because the valve stems are tucked towards the center of the wheel so you don't chew them off rock crawling.

My dilemma is that one of them is literally leaking through the aluminum...
It's obvious a previous owner tried to JB weld the leaks.
My questions is: is it worth trying to save these rims? I was going to go with some inexpensive steel rims.

I may blast them and then do what Keys5a did with the clearcoat.

Thanks,

-Mark-

 

Be cautious. Some economy rims are so poor I've heard of tire shops refusing to mount them.