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Tips For Starting Up A Rebuilt Engine With Sniper Efi

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by truckee4x4, Oct 9, 2021.

  1. Oct 9, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    Hey guys & gals - I'm getting closer to being able to put some gas in my new (old) tank, finishing the fuel plumbing, and actually doing some wiring so I can turn my engine over.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_8158.jpg

    I've never started up a rebuilt engine before so I wanted to ask y'all if anyone has any pointers or suggestions on things I should do/not do - common pitfalls, dangerous things I should definitely not do etc. so I don't risk any damage.

    The engine is at #1TDC, at least according to the rebuilder.... It has a new HEI. Newly re-cored and filled radiator and hoses. No heater yet, the water pump upper outlet is just connected to the RH top manifold for now. New plugs + wires, a newly rebuilt starter with new solenoid, new oil pump, new vacuum lines, and a new exhaust. There's a Holley Sniper in place of the Rochester 2GC (but I still have the carb if needed - but I think I should be OK with the TBI since it's not controlling the timing in any way). I rebuilt the oil bath air cleaner but I'll probably run a paper one for now. I have a basic digital advance timing light.

    First up I know I need to "trust but verify" TDC (it would be bad if I was off 180 degrees right?). Will do that with a spring tool in #1 plug hole, but I'd rather not pull the valve cover if possible - do you guys know of any tricks with the Dauntless - can you see the valve covers through the LH front breather hole sufficiently to do this? Or would it be easier to pull the exhaust manifold and look at the exhaust port?

    Once that's verified, I'll check that the rotor is pointing at #1, and tighten down the dist. hold down, and pull the vacuum advance and plug the hose. I should be good to fire it up then and see what the timing marks say with the light, yes? From there I'll loosen/rotate the distributor as needed (it's safe to do this with the engine running right?) until 0 lines up with the line and then reconnect the vacuum - that's the goal right?

    I'd welcome feedback/tips/pointers on the above. Thanks.
     
    OzFin likes this.
  2. Oct 9, 2021
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Marysville, WA
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    if it were *me* I'd pull the distributor, and run the oil pump with a drill, until you get oil to the top of the motor, before I'd worry about getting it started, *especially* if it's got a fresh camshaft in it.

    I know guys do it, and maybe I'm just overcautious, but I never start a fresh rebuild, or even anything that's just been sitting around for years without getting the oiling system primed.

    Otherwise, your plan sounds just fine. I've never done a fresh motor with a brand new EFI setup, so I've got *zero* advice on that one.
     
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  3. Oct 9, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    it does have a new camshaft, good idea. How do you know you have oil “to the top of the engine?”
     
  4. Oct 9, 2021
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    I pull the valve covers, and wait until I've got good oil flow to the valvetrain. It's pretty easy to see. On a 225 (and most other engines with shaft mounted rockers) it's not a complicated thing to do at all.

    I've got an actual priming tool (made from an old busted prestolite distributor that I hacked up) but you can quite literally just get a big cheap flat blade screwdriver with a long shank (basically you want it a bit longer than the distance from the distributor mounting shoulder, to where the oil pump drive tang is on the distributor, that way you're not trying to run a drill that's only 1/2" away from the engine), hack the handle off of it, and chuck it up in a 1/2" drill.

    I don't remember which direction the oil pump turns on a 225, whether it's clockwise, or counter-clockwise, but you'll know it pretty quick, if you're spinning it the right direction, the drill is going to be working harder, if you're spinning it the wrong direction, it's just gonna basically be freewheeling, and maybe you'll even hear it aerating the oil down in the pan.
     
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  5. Oct 9, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Cheers thanks. I have a dim memory of the rebuilder telling me he did this when I got it from him in May…but can’t hurt to do it again. Question - can the valve cover gaskets be salvaged or would I need to have new ones on hand?
     
  6. Oct 9, 2021
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    Oh, I would hope your rebuilder did, but if it's been sitting since May, it wouldn't surprise me, in the least, if there wasn't any oil above the main bearing journals anymore, what with gravity being a thing.

    As far as the valve cover gaskets? I have no idea. I've got steel core rubber gaskets on my Dauntless, with no schmoo on them, so they're almost always reusable. If it's got cork gaskets and the engine assembler put schmoo on them? They might tear when you pull the valve covers, they might not.
     
  7. Oct 9, 2021
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
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    Get a fire extinguisher on hand " just in case " it would be needed.

    Hopefully the oil pump was packed with petroleum jelly so a quick prime up and oil pressure can be had.
    Pre- oil the engine as mentioned above!
    Once acceptable oiling is obtained re-install the distributer
    I know you don't want to pull the valve covers but I would for several reasons, the Dauntless will not oil the top end so much that it would make a mess but you would be able to see the top end oiling. You can also verify the correct orientation of the rocker assembly. You may have done this in your build so skip this if you already know they are installed correctly.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Determine what the camshaft manufacture wants for break-in RPM's and for how long (time) to hold it there once running.
    Have a helper with you to make observations while you are focused on other things.
    Have a timing light & vacuum gauge ready.
    I also cannot help with the fuel injection portion of the startup.
    Once started make adjustments as needed, be careful around the rotating components.
    Listen for any knocking or other alarming noises.
    There will be some odors & vapors so expect some of that but it shouldn't be excessive.
    Check out a few YouTube videos for the various procedures used by others to get a feel for what's to be expected and what can go wrong.
    Good luck ! Have another helper take a video.
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2021
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  8. Oct 9, 2021
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Riverside CA
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    To protect yourself, I think a knock and talk with the engine rebuilder might be in order.
    Ask him/them how you should break the engine in following their instructions.
    What break in oil, what RPM, etc etc.
    I only say this because some time has passed, May till October.
     
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  9. Oct 9, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    He sent me with a whole page of instructions, but I agree with you I will be giving him a ring before I fire it up.
     
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  10. Oct 9, 2021
    Jw60

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    Pulling the valve covers, verify tdc and oil is a very good idea even if it is not fun.

    For the tbi prime the fuel pump well. if you have a return line to tank get that purged. My injectors were rebuilt and one stuck. If that happens tap on it like you would a stuck starter bendex.
     
  11. Oct 9, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    If you're not using oil with ZDDP already in it, get some additive. It will increase your chances of a good cam break-in.
     
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  12. Oct 9, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    The rebuilder sent me with 7 extra quarts of Maxima break in 10W30.
     
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  13. Oct 9, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    I found the rebuilders directions:

    2AF2B93A-34A0-461D-8C6E-0C2E7FF0EA98.jpeg
     
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  14. Oct 9, 2021
    AC Bill

    AC Bill New Member

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    Most rebuilders use a special assembly grease when re-assembling an engine, to allow for the first start. If he test ran it already, than that grease will have washed away, but if the very first time it's spun, is when you crank it, there should be adequate lubrication until the crank oil is circulating. That's what assembly lube is deigned for.
     
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  15. Oct 9, 2021
    givemethewillys

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    You're at the same place I am with the engine rebuild, and I'm dragging my feet to get it started. I still have a ton of stuff to do to the jeep before it's driveable, so I'm pretty much just waiting it out. I'd love to hear how your first start goes, hopefully you can get someone to video it or take pictures!
     
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  16. Oct 9, 2021
    GillaFunk

    GillaFunk I'm the Dude, so thats what you call me.

    Graeagle Calif...
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    When we’re you planning on doing this? I’d be interested in watching, lending a send set of hands.
    Im up the road.

    Sunday is booked. Monday I’m installing new brakes lines on Dorris. I’m free after that any time.
     
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  17. Oct 10, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Probably in about a week or so. I’ll DM you, thanks!

    I know you guys said you don’t have experience with EFI, hopefully this is a basic question that you can help me get to the bottom of. The Sniper wiring install directions specify that the ignition wire from the unit be routed to a “clean switched 12v power source that is not connected to the coil”:

    3AE477DB-2B9A-47B7-8968-962BA0F9EDE9.jpeg
    Am I correct in assuming that the IGN terminal on the back of the keyed ignition switch is out because it also has a wire that goes directly to the HEI BATT wire?

    what other options would I have?
    E16647F7-A170-49E7-8D0C-C3637EF4EA5B.jpeg
    in this pic:
    -Brown is ACC
    -Pink in my hand is to the Sniper 12v IGN
    -orange is to HEI Batt wire
    -purple is to Starter solenoid
    -red is to battery + terminal
     
  18. Oct 10, 2021
    Jw60

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    I understand that the switch is ok assuming the lead powering the switch from the battery is heavy enough. what you want to avoid is having the efi get messed up from low or varying voltage input.

    don't run it to the positive terminal on the coil.
    Fwiw my tbi kit has two relays one for the fuel pump and one for tbi power switched by the ignition switch and powered directly to the battery on a fused wire.
     
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  19. Oct 10, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    Are you guys OK with a dab of dish soap to ease installation of new radiator hoses? Or something else?
     
  20. Oct 10, 2021
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

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    I just use silicone spray, but I doubt dish soap will hurt anything.
     
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