Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by GillaFunk, Jun 22, 2021.
You’d need to contact the manufacturer for the answer
Seem that you mess with master brake cylinder. Maybe its the rod between master and booster that is making slight contact together applying little pressure on master. Been there before, just need little ajustment.
Due to brake drag on the front, caused by residual pressure from the master cylinder, I had to address a number of things:
A) Remove the residual pressure valve in the master cylinder.
B) Install a 2lb Residual Pressure Valve in the front brake line
C) Install a 10lb Residual Pressure Valve in the rear brake line.
A) Remove the MC. Drain it. Disassemble it.
Remove this component, it’s basically an RPV
I removed ONLY the check valve. The valve seat is still in place.
Reassemble the MC, bench bleed, and re-install on vehicle. (Personally, I just refilled the MC once installed and bled it as I bled the entire system AFTER installing both RPV’s).
B) 2lb RPV in the front brake line.
This required fabrication of metal hard lines. I had to purchase the right tools and fittings. This is the RPV I used. It goes between the MC and the front “Line Tee”. This maintains 2lbs residual pressure in the line for the disc brakes.
I had to make hard brake lines, thus required line fittings. This kit supplied more than enough fittings
This is the RPV you’ll need
Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-13784
I have a Clifford header, so I had to do some fabrication of brake line. Here is how mined ended up
Used a bit of fuel line in various locations on both front and rear RPV’s installations to prevent the valves and the brake line from rubbing.
C) 10lb valve was a far more simple job.
Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-13707
Cut the brake line, install the RPV with the correct brake line fittings. This RPV maintains 10PSI pressure for the rear drum brakes.
Now bleed the brakes. Ensure the you’re master cylinder push rod is still adjusted within specification.
Enjoy your new axle
That's exactly how I approached my power brake conversion, toss the RPV in the master and install the inline units for about $10 each. In addition, I do not run a proportioning valve, as I have 11 inch drum brakes on all four corners and it stops on a dime with no issues locking up the rears without a proportioning valve.
Wow!!!!, Damn if I had anything like that machining equipment that looks like a great solution. Power steering would be sooooooooooooo nice.
excellent work. Damn!
The only thing I *really* needed was the lathe to make the threaded adapter to connect the drag link to the valve, that would be a nominal cost at your FLMS. Nate has a good solution for connecting the tie rod & drag link together at the passenger side knuckle or you can use the appropriate (Commando?) center TRE there. Most of the stuff I went through wouldn't apply to you as you don't have a PTO winch.
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