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Fino's 58 Wagon

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Aug 10, 2019.

  1. May 3, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    that is what the shop said as well....He did put a disconnect in front of the muffler on each side so its easier to remove if I need to access stuff etc...I am good with it. Just wish it wasn't dripping a bit from the RMS....
     
  2. Jul 17, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Jul 18, 2013
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    It's been warm here, but not necessarily HOT. The sbc is running nice and the temp stays pegged at 180F....but after shut down with no fan or coolant circulation, the carb starts to boil and seep/drip out fuel. It currently has a .25 inch insulating spacer under to carb...
    [​IMG]

    wondering how much doubling up on that spacer, or just getting a thicker spacer would help. It's also possible (theoretically - not 100% sure) the electric fan could be set to run for 5 minutes or so after shut down, but it pulls a lot of current. Last thought is I could pay for the high test ethanol free fuel, and although a couple stations near me have it, it's not available everywhere especially when traveling.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2022
    Ol Fogie likes this.
  3. Jul 17, 2022
    Ol Fogie

    Ol Fogie 74 cj5 304, 1943 mb 2020 Sponsor

    Southern...
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    It might help to get or make a thicker insulator. The 304 in my jeep has a factory one about 3/4 of an inch thick. Plus it has a heavy/thick gasket on both sides of the insulator made up what looks like several layers of a cloth/paper material. Cannot say I have ever had any issues with heat absorption to my carb with it set up like this.
     
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  4. Jul 17, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Ol Fogie and FinoCJ like this.
  5. Jul 17, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Interesting....more of a heat shield than classic insulating/phenolic spacer. Was initially worried about traditional aluminum spacers as heat conductors, but as a heat shield...? Was looking at this one inch plastic spacer:
    https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mr-Gasket-3406-Carburetor-Spacer-Kit-1-Inch-4-Hole-Center,288114.html
    I have to do a bit of measuring....one inch is pretty thick and may create some clearance issues. Plenty of room to the hood, but the firewall mounted windshield wiper motor might be tricky....there is also a 3/4" one and I can also use a drop base air cleaner, but that gets tight with some other pieces....
     
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  6. Jul 17, 2022
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2009
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    3,808
    I used to use a 1" phenolic spacer under the Holley's on the sbc's which worked well. I tried the sandwich type that Roy is using but there is enough potential "give" in those that the danger of breaking a mounting ear on the carb is real. If you want a Performer manifold, I know where there is one. Cheap---- Actually I know where two of those are. I'd have to look in the shop, but there may be a spacer hanging on the wall too but that would be for a square bore.
     
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  7. Jul 17, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    I am interested, although it might be a bit before I move on from the carb. Performer manifold would probably happen if/when I try out a TBI system. As a added bonus, I don't think there is any kind of fuel bowl in the throttle body of a TBI system - so that would eliminate any fuel boiling issues! I am sure there are adapters, but guessing most of the TBI systems are square bore and not spread bore? Would an aluminum intake reduce heat issues in any significant way over the old OEM cast iron style, especially if its just sitting on iron heads?
     
  8. Jul 17, 2022
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
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    Dec 17, 2002
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    2,315
    After I shut off my 4.3ltr TBI. (Hot) I can hear bubbling in the fuel tank even after I wrapped the fuel lines.
     
  9. Jul 17, 2022
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    Aluminum conducts heat about three time better than cast iron so there would be a small benefit of heat exchange to coolant but not much with the limited exposed surface area. I suspect there is also a small benefit for keeping the carb base cooler. But the real benefits are loosing a significant amount of weight and the usually smoother, better contoured intake runners.

    I ran ProFlo II on the 3B for more than a decade. That system utilizes the Victor Jr manifold-not the best choice for bottom end torque-with the air gap between the runners and lifter gallery "cover". It definitely keeps the throttle body/carb cooler. At no time did I ever have bubbling fuel but with port injection, not much chance of that. Scott's bubbling is almost certainly from the return line and really should have no effect on the performance-unless perhaps one is about to run out of gas. EFI with 40-60 psi really minimizes (or more likely, eliminates) any chance of vapor lock. This was the 381 with ProFlo II.
    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Jul 17, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Did a bit of measuring today - should have plenty of room to run a 1" phenolic spacer - so we'll start with that. Might add the heat shield as well if just the spacer doesn't work.
    Here is something that I did get finalized today - electric, but its working.
     
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  11. Jul 18, 2022
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
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    Is it possible this things been sitting long enough that it has winter blend fuel in it still?
     
  12. Jul 18, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    No ...I've burned through a couple tanks around here this summer
     
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  13. Jul 19, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    You know the saying....its never as easy as it should be....figured I had this one worked out, but always a catch somewhere. Got the 1" phenolic spacer - has some hollow air space for insulating:
    [​IMG]

    It comes with 2 fibrous gaskets and some longer studs to fit everything - also figured I'd continue using the metal intake cover/base gasket that covers the exhaust pre-heater groove:
    [​IMG]

    Longer studs installed and metal cover gasket:
    [​IMG]

    the lower fiber/composite gasket for under the spacer:
    [​IMG]

    Spacer and upper gasket for between the carb and spacer:
    [​IMG]

    So now carb goes on...tighten down and connect up throttle etc....except I forgot that the thermal-coil divorced choke linkage will not reach - hope I can find (or make) a 1" longer choke linkage....
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2022
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  14. Jul 19, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Think I got the choke linkage sorted....found some random .125" rod that was some old hanging device in the junk box and just long enough straight section make what I needed. It's actually 1.1" longer, but better a bit long than short. Too short and it won't open the choke all the way when hot. It still seems to close the choke all the way when cold.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. Jul 19, 2022
    Ol Fogie

    Ol Fogie 74 cj5 304, 1943 mb 2020 Sponsor

    Southern...
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    :bananatool::bananatool:
     
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  16. Jul 20, 2022
    melvinm

    melvinm Member

    Arvada Co. 80003
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    Aug 11, 2012
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    167
    I like the fire wall modification You made behind the distributor it looks like factory.
     
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  17. Aug 10, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Re-fabbed my seat bracket...seat position was too flat, and was limited on how big a spacer I could put under the bracket. It's a bit of a hack job, but cut it apart and added a riser plate to raised the front of the seat about 2" higher than the rear...if needed, I can still add 1/2" spacer under the bracket. once this is confirmed comfortable, I can fab the passenger seat bracket.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Aug 11, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    Way better! Also, without the spacer under the front bracket, the mount on the slider is much more solid whereas before there was just a little rock or slop - tiny, but just enough be annoying.
    [​IMG]
     
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  19. Aug 16, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Bozeman, MT
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    I started work on the OD install and figuring out the shifter linkage etc...but of course, one of the important aspects of shifter clearance is knowing exactly how/where the front passenger seat is mounted. So time to build the front seat mount....but of course, given my slightly compulsive nature for symmetry, I had to be absolutely certain the driver seat was how I wanted it. After getting the ramp angle the way I liked, it was still a bit off-center behind the steering wheel. There isn't a set of perpendicular or parallel lines in the entire wagon - in the front, the door angle inward towards the front, the top slants in as well, the 2-piece windshield makes an angle from one side to the other, the dash is not vertical, etc....As best I could tell, the driver seat needed to shift outward 3/4-1" to be nicely centered behind the wheel - unfortunately, the brackets I made didn't quite allow for the full shift, so I ended up moving them the maximum I could without re-making the bracket which was just a smidge over 1/2" - guess that'll do, hopefully 1/4" won't matter too much....now on to the passenger seat....

    Much like the driver side, it was important to me to not trash the original mounting set-up in case I (or someone down the line) wanted to re-use the original seats (which I have and at times debate having re-done and re-using). I also didn't want to do any unnecessary modifications or drill too many holes etc - so like the drive side, I came up with a way to re-use the OEM floor mounts and then did have to drill two rear holes through the floor into the tool box area. The OEM seats had no rear hold down - just pivoted forward - and that was where I drew the line and made a solid back mount for the seat. Its hard mounted, so the seat will not tip forward - no latch or release mechanism - maybe I can figure out that later - but since I don't plan to have a rear seat for now, no need for passengers to have access other than via the tailgate.

    I am stupid slow at fabricating, and also have some limitations with tools and knowledge. This probably would be more aesthetic - and probably easier - with round tubing and a bender (like the OEM brackets), but don't have one. I used what I had, and wanted it to match the driver side bracket as well, so basically angle iron and flat stock....maybe some 1" square tubing would have been better looking, but it is what it is....in the end, I am happy with the positioning etc....time to finish the OD install...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  20. Aug 16, 2022
    Stakebed

    Stakebed Member

    BFE Lake Co.
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    Nice looking seats.
     
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