Maybe I Won't Have A Horn?

I have been having trouble installing my steering wheel I got from Walcks. There are 1/2 inch of threads on the splined shaft for the steering wheel. My steering wheel just seems to come to a stop when I put it on the splined shaft. When I install the nut and tighten it down it does not go further down the splines and there are just enough threads for the nut to be fully engaged on the threads, no threads above the nut. When the horn button and brass concave plate are installed they are too far away from the contact and when pushed to honk the horn the brass concave plate just pops and becomes convex and does not make contact with horn button.

I threw in a picture of my steering wheel puller in action. It is a single post hydraulic bumper jack at least 50 years old. I remember using it at my dad's Shell Station in 1965. You just have to put some pressure on the wheel, not to much, and hit it a couple of times with a rubber mallet. This jack has saved my butt many times.

 

Can't help with your mechanical problem, but this forum has three articles about posting pictures: http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?forums/forum-help-and-testing.11/

 

Law says you gotta have a horn. Mine is a spring-loaded push-button that is clamped to the side of my steering column. The JEEP came to me without either horn button or horns. Or a center view mirror, either. All required by law.

 

thanks.

 

I would give Walck's a call if you have not already. They are quite knowledgeable about such things.

 

Thanks, I have called Walcks 3 times and sent him pictures. I have worked on it today and have the steering wheel sitting lower on the shaft. I'm positive I'll get it worked out, some things just take a little longer than others. Your setup looks pretty much like mine, so I'm close.

 

I went that way as well..

 

Been thinking about the horn issue and understand it better. The horn toots when the ground is made thru the shaft and wire button. How that actually works is the brass cup is an electrical conductor extension of the shaft so when the wire button and the brass cup make contact thru the brass disk the horn toots. So I think the idea is to have the button touching the brass dish all the time and when the brass disk is pressed the disk touches the cup and bingo the horn toots.
Ya'll probably knew that already, but I'm a slow learner. Now I just have to shim the button, brass disk and/or brass cup to make the above happen and then BINGO.
As far as I have looked I have never found a good explanation of this in the literature.
BINGO.

 

Yea, horn don't blow. NO BINGO. No current coming out of horn in black ground wire and there should be, Need to get horn working then work on button.
Getting there. Not sure if horn can be fixed or need a new one. Haven't messed with it the last 2 days, but will tomorrow.

 

are you sure it's got 12 volts on horn . ground black wire to test

 

I haven't put a volt meter on it, but I have put a test light on it and shows current going in horn thru red wire, but nothing coming out of the black wire and I believe there should be??? The voltage should be all the way to the horn button wire at the horn button. When the ground is made by pushing on the horn button the current should flow and horn should toot. BINGO. Is what I have said above true?????

 

Yes makes sense. I will do this tomorrow and report back. Thanks for your input, appreciate it.

 

Tested the horn as you suggested and I have a bad horn. Got to order one.

 

Yea, I'll do that. Also got other stuff to do: PTO install, new transfer case brake and parts, but waiting for parts.
I have a couple ' What to heck is this' posts but don't see how to start a post under that heading???

 

sometime if you play with adjuster on back of horn . they sometimes beep again