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34 Years Later The Build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Joe Adams, Sep 13, 2016.

  1. Mar 1, 2020
    fhoehle

    fhoehle Sponsor

    Harford Township, PA
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    Apr 11, 2012
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    1,347
    How about either spinning the boot around 180 degrees, or cutting a slit leading to a hole passing through the boot for the cable to ride? Just a thought.
     
  2. Mar 3, 2020
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2016
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    55
    If i flip it so the longest part is on the inside its going to rub on the clutch. I will probably end up cutting a slit & hole in it like you mentioned. The inside of the boot is "C" channeled to fit the fork arm so I cant just flip it, although that would be the easiest way!
     
  3. Mar 11, 2020
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
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    Sep 11, 2016
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    Put the engine in last weekend. After fighting it for a little we realized we had the wrong size input shaft bushing. Quick replacement with the correct size and it fell right in. Looks like we're going to have some clearance issues with the brake pedal arm hitting the block. Gotta figure something out for that.

    [​IMG]Photo Mar 06, 12 42 25 PM by Joe Adams

    [​IMG]Photo Mar 06, 3 02 47 PM by Joe Adams, on Flickr
     
    dozerjim, truckee4x4 and fhoehle like this.
  4. Mar 11, 2020
    durk

    durk Member

    Ontario/Canada
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    Jan 6, 2005
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    206
    Hey there, I think in your mock up of brake pedal you have hyper extented brake pedal and that's why it's hitting the block...? The degree your pedal is on looks way more then the degree the toe floor of the tub rises up to firewall. Engine mounts not factory...?? Any chance you might have engine located too far back?? Wow I like the bead blasted bell housing. Working on my blast cabinet now hope my b/h turns out as new looking as your. If for some reason you need stock v6 measurments I got the my frame bare now I could take a measurments make sure your mounts in right spot. Good luck j
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2020
  5. Mar 11, 2020
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
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    Sep 11, 2016
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    Thank you durk. There is a good chance that the engine mounts could be in the wrong spot. it was a 4cyl converted to fit this v6. The old v6 fit just fine, so im hoping its only a problem with the master cylinder set up. We do have a '70 frame that came with a factory V6 if we need to abandon this and move over to that frame.
     
  6. Mar 12, 2020
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    4,114
    The factory V6 jeeps have a different bend in the pedal arm. You can see the shape if you go to this thread and scroll down to Mcruff's post:

    Floor Brake Pedal Contacts Bell Housing And Mc

    I'm guessing you've got a 4cyl arm. It doesn't seem like anybody makes the V6 arms. Walck's says this on their pedal arm listing:

    "Note: These do not fit CJ5/6 with the V6 or dual reservoir master cylinder setups."

    You may need to put a double bend into your existing arm or find a used V6 one somewhere.
     
  7. Mar 12, 2020
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
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    Sep 11, 2016
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    Thank you for the information and link to that post Fireball! I cant remember if that other frame we have has the pedal arm on it. If so I'll clean it up and move it to this frame, otherwise the torch is coming out and the arm is going into the vice!!
     
  8. Mar 25, 2020
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2016
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    55
    Been tinkering a little here and there. Mounted the starter, flywheel inspection cover, pulleys, alternator, fan, and got a new belt for it. I cleaned up one of the two HEI distributors that we have. After a ton of research on this great website, it turns out I cleaned up and bought parts for the even fire distro when I should have cleaned up the odd fire distro. So, I've got a new cap coming in for the odd fire. I also learned that I have to shave the intake to fit the larger HEI so that will happen once I get it back together. Our other frame had the proper, double bend brake pedal so we pulled that off today in addition to the clutch bell crank. I ordered some bell crank rebuild parts and a clutch cable.

    Ive been doing more research and I found that the carb/intake set up we put on this engine was from a boat. Its a single barrel intake with a rochester bc carb. Since this engine is "hopped up" with ratio rockers and a bigger Crane cam I'm afraid that its going to restrict the engine a bit and reduce performance. We also found a crate of carbs in my dad's collection so I'm poking around for a double barrel intake.

    A couple photos to look at.

    [​IMG]Photo Mar 21, 11 48 01 AM by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo Mar 19, 7 40 52 PM by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo Mar 12, 4 09 11 PM by Joe Adams, on Flickr


    They guy we bought this engine from gave us a 1980 Kenne-Bell Parts catalog. I thought it was cool so I scanned today if anyone wants to check it out: 1980Kenne-BelleCatalog.pdf
     
    jeepstar likes this.
  9. Jan 5, 2022
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
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    Sep 11, 2016
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    55
    I guess its time for the yearly update.

    Progress has been slow (no surprise) my dad and I are working on this together and we don't have time together like we used to.

    At any rate, to summarize:
    The fiberglass body has been stripped and re-cored with 3/4' plywood, fiberglassed over
    Giant firewall hole repaired
    Raptor lined the bottom
    new gelcoat on the body & fenders
    Metal body parts (hood, grill, dash) are up next for repair & paint. They were sandblasted and epoxy primered to see how bad they were under the paint.
    We ended up having to cut the engine out and move it forward for a number of reasons.
    While it was apart we put the original crossmember back into it and found a skidplate for it.
    Swapped the rear springs from side to side to try and mitigate the jeep lean
    Installed an HEI, then took it out, then reinstalled, then took it out, then reinstalled 180* opposite direction.
    Started the engine up for the first time since it was rebuilt in the 80's
    I have a 2 barrel intake for the engine now so once its all together and everything works ill probably make another winter project out of a new carb & intake swap
    I have a Y pipe and muffler/tail pipe. Have to take it to get an intermediate pipe made.
    Found a 12v heater blower motor to replace the 6v ford one



    Some photos from the last year.

    [​IMG]Photo Oct 30, 8 29 29 PM by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo Oct 30, 8 29 42 PM by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo May 31, 3 31 00 PM by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo May 31, 3 36 49 PM (2) by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo Nov 27, 3 18 26 PM by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo Dec 05, 3 37 24 PM by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo Dec 05, 3 59 27 PM by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo Jun 08, 7 13 48 PM by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo Sep 20, 7 39 14 AM by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo Oct 29, 8 44 57 AM by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo Oct 11, 7 01 33 AM by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo Oct 11, 7 01 20 AM (1) by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo Dec 15, 8 06 43 PM by Joe Adams, on Flickr

    [​IMG]Photo Jan 02, 5 27 10 PM by Joe Adams, on Flickr
     
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  10. Feb 3, 2022
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
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    Sep 11, 2016
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    For anyone potentially looking in the future, on the drivers side I needed an exhaust donut so I used part number 3610047 from a Polaris Sportsman Ranger. On the passenger side between the manifold & heat riser I used Felpro 8105 but I had to cut the gasket to make it fit the bolt holes. Not ideal but I saw someone else did it so I figured I'd give it a shot. Waiting on the chassis to come back from the exhaust shop to have the intermediate pipe made and the muffler hung. Then we can fire it up and see if the gasket blows out.
     
  11. Mar 15, 2022
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
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    Update. Frame has been at the exhaust shop for 6 weeks. Dropped it off to get the pipe made between the Y pipe and the muffler. Yikes.

    In the mean time, we re-drilled all the holes for the seat brackets, roll bar and body mount bolts. Went one size over on the bit, then sealed the bare glass & wood with resin and drilled to the proper size. Also got the metal parts back. Dash, hood, grill. Drilled & installed threaded inserts into the cowl so we could use the original 1/4-20 dash bolts.

     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2022
    Fireball likes this.
  12. Mar 23, 2022
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
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    Sep 11, 2016
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    Got the chassis back from Midas finally. Pipe looks good, they tucked it pretty well. Dynomax turbo muffler sounds good too which is a relief.

    Also got the body set on the chassis and loosely mounted to the frame, so that was very exciting.

    Replaced the pins in the hood hinges & had the “flats” milled by a friend.

    Ordered the last Bestop Super Top they had in stock. Got the order in before they raise prices 10% next month. It should be here next week.

    Finally, I spray bombed the radiator black & mounted it into the grill. Need to get some new hardware for our electric fan, but that should be good to go soon.
     
  13. Mar 24, 2022
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
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  14. Mar 24, 2022
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    A brand new jeep. There are limited number of people that would even attempt to do what you and your father have done. Be proud.:bow::watch:
     
  15. Mar 24, 2022
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
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    thank you Walt. it’s by no means perfect, but it’s something that’s been in the family for a long long time, and we’re doing it together which may be the best part.
     
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  16. Mar 26, 2022
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
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    Sep 11, 2016
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    Got the grill & fenders mounted today. The drain plugs on the bottom of the radiator are hitting the crossmember, so we have to rework that somehow.


    Also discovered that the Jeep wont turn left, because the drag link is hitting the bell housing. No clue how we missed this. Oh well. I need to locate a M38-A1 steering box I guess? Are these narrower than the T125996 Ross box from the 4 cylinder that I have? I'll have to continue my research.


    All this is starting to point out the engine still isn't where it should be in the chassis. Lame.
     
  17. Mar 28, 2022
    1967 CJ5A

    1967 CJ5A Mike 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Raleigh, NC
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    On my '69 with factory v6 the drag link is flipped around so the end you show is at the front. Otherwise mine would hit the bellhousing too. One end of the drag link puts the ball closer to the end, (spring is between the ball and the rest of the rod instead of between the ball and the screw plug) and that's the end you want to have at the steering box. The orientation described also prevents the drag link from hitting the motor mount. I know these things because I just tried to install mine the way you show after I rebuilt my steering box and I ran into both of those issues.
     
  18. Mar 28, 2022
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
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    Thank you for the input Mike! I know what I'm doing tonight! Out of curiosity, do you know if that drag link is 24.5"? I posted the question on another thread and Fireball wrote back confirming that his is 24.5". This one I have measure 25.5" which I know doesnt help my situation.
     
  19. Mar 28, 2022
    1967 CJ5A

    1967 CJ5A Mike 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Raleigh, NC
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    I'm not sure, but I can measure it tonight and let you know.
     
  20. Mar 28, 2022
    Joe Adams

    Joe Adams Member

    Connecticut
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    No rush, whenever you get around to it. thanks!
     
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