The Official "What The Heck Is This?" Thread

Jeeps and cars of the era had many similar but slightly different variants.

Try Google-fu to discover data on the original OEM applications. Some member(s) on this forum may have such info. But who knows if yours is OEM?

Mix-and-match may be "close enough" in real life. This wasn't a binary digital yes/no world. Main thing is that it should play well with the voltage regulator, also a rabbit hole of infinite apps.

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

 

Thanks for your help. I’m of course going with your suggestions, should be exciting, as I’ve never run this engine! I’ll follow Howard’s plan and hope for the best! A couple more pics

 

There can be model differences that involve amps and volts.

BUT also they can define different non-electrical options for the pattern and orientation of mount holes, adjustment arm, etcetera. Many such details are not necessarily mission critical and can be adapted.

Probably you should read up on "polarizing" your unit, in your FSM. (You do have an FSM, right?)

 

I keep FSM open and will review everything before putting power to the circuit. Thanks for your interest.

 

Hi All, I apologize if this is in the wrong place, Ill happily relocate this question elsewhere if it is. I'm in the midst of a v6 swap, and am rebuilding the carb that came on my boat anchor engine. I got to the very end, and realized I did not have a cover plate thing on the back of my carburetor, and after an hour of searching, this is one of the few pictures I could find. It looks like some kind of valve or something (I assume as it is spring loaded). Any ideas on what it is, and where I could maybe find a new one, I didn't see anything that looked relevant in my rebuild kit. There was no tag on the carb, only the casting number: 7013878. The pictured carb is apparently for a 283 SBC. I appreciate yalls help!

 

That is not the factory 2G carb which has neither the choke assembly or the piece in question. I have no idea what the function of that plate would be. Typically, there would be nothing but air behind it.

 

After working on this for awhile I find that it is an Autolite , most likely model GJC7402A which was a factory equipped generator in 1964. At some point the label was removed but I can see where the original drive screws were broken off. I’m going to fix it up and put it back on the jeep. I’ll need brushes and the bronze bushing. Any idea on vendor?

 

The black rectangle is inside the tub on the firewall. It is solid. Looks like one of the POs sprayed it when they sprayed the bed liner in the floor. It is hot all the time. The white object is mounted to the engine side of the firewall. I don't know what either of these might be. Any advice is appreciated.

 

Ballast resistor for

Other thing looks like an inline fuse. Follow the wires. What do the connect to?

 

Yes.

 

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/hot-idle-compensator

I bought an Ebay rebuild that had one of these on it. The plate was there, but the bi metal valve was gone and the hole plugged.

 

Thank you Alcoff! Thats a neat bit of analog tech, I'll probably plug mine up then as I only have an alternator on my serpentine

 

looking for help with I’d on this pump. The bearings are getting loud and rust dust is coming out behind the pulley. I think it is from a skylark but the fill neck on the skylark looks super long and the S/R orientation looks wrong. I may look into replacing it with a later CJ pump since I have a half dozen. There are numbers stamped in the res. 116415

 

Thats an old GM pump, like early 60's

 

I had the same one on my 63 Olds Starfire 394.

 

1210 has a very similar pump with a shorter fill.

 

Turns out the pump is fine but the woodruff on the shaft has worn into the pulley. Going to try an HP woodruff and maybe a small tig tack