D20 in Full Size Jeep

Unless you have a limited slip or locking differential in the front or something is broken, no, one front driving wheel will not spin the transfer case. All the motion is transferred to the other unlocked axle due to less friction. If it does manage to turn the front driveshaft at all it will be very slow...

 

since the hub is making a baseball card in a bicycle spoke noise, the hubs need to come off. Here is the latest issue I removed the two snap rings and the cage portion of the lockomatic will not come off. Did something spin and jam up the cage? The axle shaft seems free.

 

Common problem.

There are tiny set screws in the outer lock ring. Feel for small holes in the lock ring and dig the grease out of them. You will find allen head screws in some (3 of 4? don't recall exactly) of them. Remove thiose and the lock ring will screw off of the spindle.

 

Knew about the set screws couldn't get that far in the removal process. The reason I couldn't get the cage off was the plastic on the inside of the cage was so chewed up and it was catching on the locking ring with the set screws. Time for new hubs. Any suggestions?

 

We figured out what the problem was. The Lock-o matic on the drivers side failed to the point that the left front wheel was locked at all times which in turn spun the axle and transfer case. The clunking only occurred in 2h. We bought a set of basic locking hubs from Walcks and the problem appeared to have disappeared. Just thought I would update the forum in case anyone experiences a similar issue

 

The clunking in 2h reappeared today. As before, there is no noise in 4h. I then took a small bungee cord to hold the gear selector more positively in 2h and the noise stopped. Is this issue originating from stuck dentent balls within the the t-case or in shifter case? I looked at the used shifter case that I bought from Herm but couldn't use because the linkage was different than ours. This one also doesn't lock in 2h. Does the locking take place in the t-case?

 

Yes, the detent springs and balls are in the front output housing. Shift rails must be removed to access them (I.e. Transfer case disassembled). To check if they might be the issue disconnect the shifter rods going from the shifter box to the transfer case shift rails. Then see if they move easily. Make sure there is no tension on the drivetrain (transmission in neutral, locking hubs in free position). If you can move the shift rails easily by hand then you have a detent issue. You should have to pry kind of hard with a prybar to get them to move.

Did you ever find the source of the loose cotter pin?

 

We never found the origin of the cotter pin. I will recheck the t-case shifter rods but if I recall correctly, they moved quite freely when the shifter case was disconnected.

 

If the balls are just gunked up, is there any chance that spaying Kroil along the shifter rods will loosen thing up? I think I am being too optimistic.

 

Not that it makes a hill of beans but, my D20 was horrible to get in gear with the original U-shift set up.. Sometimes it would walk out of 4-lo and into 2 lo.. The shifting was horrid.. I finally installed a twin stick kit from JB fab.. It is now 500% better.. The original jeep design is Rube Goldberg's nightmare..

 

I thought about doing this. Just not sure if it would be throwing good money after bad.

 

I went on JB's site. I sent them a request for further info, more specifically will the twin shifter conversion hold the t-case in gear without repairing the poppets.