Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by duffer, Oct 21, 2013.
Replaced the OBA manifold this morning with a new edition more amenable to the ARB solenoids.
I finished up a few items today, including the new fuel filter mount (it will double as a heat shield support), and the grill is ready for finish work. I welded in Aqualu's errant headlight mounting holes (I think the hole were proper for 2A/3A headlight buckets comparing it to my 3A grill) and sanded everything flush again. I also welded in the sleeve for the steering shaft.
That was followed by a trip to the car wash and a lot of hot, soapy, high pressure water through the wide track FC 150 rear axle housing and then a lot of air. I think it is ready to assemble. I had previously run a boiler tube brush on a 1/2" drill though the tubes and anyone who thinks those stupid stock breather holes are not a problem should think again. There was a lot of rust pitting on the inside of the tube at that location. A REALLY dumb idea.
I pulled the fuel tank yesterday so I could get at the shock mounts behind the rear axle. I installed those mounts in 1974 and now with the body lift that went in 15 years or so back, I have enough room to raise them 1.5 to 2". When I finished the fuel tank, I was in such a rush to get it in, I never did take any photos. This is the 24.5 gal, 14 gauge steel tank and aluminum skid plate. It has those 1/4" urethane buffers along the bottom to make sure the rear shackles don't get into the skid plate if some slop develops.
The skid plate is just 1/8" 5052 and it actually did pretty well over the dozen years it's been in there. That said, it did get hit hard enough once to put a dent in the tank. I'm going to weld some 1/4" 6061 plate to the bottom of it. I do remember the hit. I slid off my line in one of the steep North Meadow boulder gardens. A front locker would have likely prevented that but the D25 was still up there-----
I'm starting to get the front end back together. I don't think I ever took a photo of the offset on the fan. The shroud isn't fully attached yet.
The past few days I have been going through 50 some years of slides trying to put some order to them. Every now and then you come across some you completely forgot about.
The back story on these photos was a fateful trip to Ft Collins in November 1974 to get hitched. The 3B at that time was completely stock except for the 1962 block 327, my 67 CJ 5 stock wheels, and the ill fitting CJ5 used Whitco top. The B was actually trying to tell me something when it emitted a big crunch sound about 40 miles north of Ft Collins. Engine dead and no starter engagement. I drifted off the shoulder of I25 and stopped. I didn't even need to open the hood to know what happened-the antifreeze draining from the window in the side of the block said it all. A forensic tear down back in Bozeman exhibited a pretty big crack at the bottom of #5 cylinder-chalk one up to an early 4" block at .030 over.
So the hitching event occurred a couple of days later and in the meantime I searched in vain for a rental truck almost all the way to Denver. Next up was to find a flat bed truck and the 53 B4D was in the classified. $450 later. It seemed to run ok so changed the oil, lubed, and loaded the 3B on the back-the only time 3B has never been on it's own wheels while I've owned. The trip back to Bozeman was long (flathead 230 power) but completely uneventful.
And that hitch job lasted about a year--------
As long as we have slipped into nostalgia, I'm going to post some photos of where this rig has been for the past 49 years.
Version 1.0: I bought the 3B in 1972 because I had ended up wheels up in my CJ5 and needed a quick Jeep fix. My opinion of 3B's was that they were as ugly as ugly gets but that wasn't the determining factor in the purchase. For $500 I got a completely stock (except for the snow plow mounting) Jeep with 26K miles on it. As one can see from the above photos of version 2.0 (with 327 engine), all the usual spots were rusted out. The only photo I have of Version 1.0:
To be continued.
Ver 1.0 lasted about a year and a half before I burned an exhaust valve trying to pull a SMALL U-Haul trailer from Denver to Bozeman. Between Casper and Midwest, there was a strong headwind and for most of that, I couldn't get out of 2nd gear. Some of that stretch of I25 was still 2 lane at that time. There was no way I wanted to rebuild the F head (sorry guys) and hence down the slippery modification slope I headed.
Ver 2.0: The 327 was put together from mostly stock parts over the winter, including the 62 block and high performance heads, Crane solid lifer cam, 68 302 GM Winters manifold and a 650 Holley. I used the T90J main drive gear and the Advanced Adapters long adapter. The 9" brakes and Ross box remained along with the rest of the stock components-this was still a Jeep with only about 30k miles on it.
Ver 3.0: Following the self destruct of the 327 in the fall of 1974, I decided it was time to do a frame off and make most of the rig the way I actually wanted it. That project spread out over the next 4 years and included a job relocation to Price, UT and back. I didn't get a whole lot done on the B in Price. Ver 3.0 included a boxed frame with a new cross member under the radiator, Saginaw manual C3 (Corvette) sector box and 1 piece tie rod, 11 gallon Con-Fer rear tank, relocated battery, 1970 350 LT 1 engine (more or less stock except for the Sig Erson camshaft), Chevy truck radiator, Muncie M20 transmission with Advanced Adapter tail housing/mainshaft, 19 spline full float Powr-Loked rear D44, 11x2 Bendix brakes, and fiberglass tub and fenders. The Warn overdrive and winch also went on at that time. The D18 and D25 remained stock. I was going to use an aftermarket steel hood (MD Juan?) but it fit so poorly I ran sans hood for a couple of years before putting together a Saturday night special with a fiberglass skin over an aluminum frame work. The Saturday night special lasted about 25 years and its basic aluminum frame work is still under the current hood. That went on for what we will call Ver 4.0.
Ver 3.0 was pretty short lived. That 350 was just nasty with 5.38 gears on the street but it didn't really appreciate low rpm rock. Its replacement was initiated within a year but in the mean time, I dumbed it down with a Performer cam and a set of 76cc 194 truck heads, and a 650 cfm Holley. That engine rendition would have likely sufficed but the 381 project was already in progress.
Ver 4.0 was long lived, from 1984 through 2014. The 350 was replaced by the 381. I recall wandering through a rather large warehouse in Denver-all small bock Chevy blocks. I was looking for a well centered 4 bolt with minimal cylinder wear and found a nice one. It cleaned up at .020 over. The crank was a stock 400 with turned mains and I used the 5.565” 400 rods TRW flat top forged 350 pistons, along with the 194 truck heads. Also going in at that time were 4 wheel power disc brakes, Ranch 2 1/2" springs, power steering, Modine 4 row cross flow radiator and a well fit shroud. I don’t recall when the 3.15:1 Tera-Low gears hit the market but those were installed in a D20 case and in the Willys within a month. Perhaps there should be a 4.1 version when it received the Auto Gear Equipment M22-W transmission, an aluminum radiator about 2007 and shortly after, aluminum heads and Pro-Flo 2 EFI.
AGE transmission-bullet proof.
381 engine/Pro-Flo 2.
Late Ver 4.0 aluminum skinned hood.
At the New Deal Mine cabin (McKelvey Lake trail) 1990.
Below Cliff Lake (above McKelvey Lake) 1995. The skiing was the chute coming off the ridge behind the Willys.
Revenue Flats about 1990.
At Sterling, MT 2014.
An ode to putting a poop eating grin on one’s face every time you get behind the wheel.
In the final analysis, a 383 (or 381) makes a near perfect Jeep engine, assuming you build it with low rpm torque as the primary design consideration. That engine was perfectly happy at 300 rpm and only rarely did one need to hit the clutch even with a crappy CR around 37:1. But after 30 years, it was getting a little tired.
The engine build in this thread is Ver 5.0. Along with the 441, the Willys received a McLeod twin disc clutch and 25 lb Hays steel flywheel, the tapered roller bearing intermediate shaft in the Super 18, new D44 axles on both ends-both with ARB’s and Dutchman axle shafts, front sway bar, Holbrook springs, Gabriel remote reservoir shocks, and a new grill along with a bunch of other alterations. To more poop eating grins-------
It's really fun to see the progression of the 3B. Thanks for sharing it's history!
This is some excellent reading. I love the history!
I couldn't stand looking at the diecast quarter turn hood lock receptacles any longer-not to mention a broken off ear on the right side. I made some new ones out of 1" 6061 hex stock with spacers the correct thickness to allow positioning, and 3/8-24 stainless threaded rod. The most difficult part was jigging up the small rotary table to work with the ENCO lathe/mill with no head height adjustment.
Is it just me or did you go from clockwise to lock to counterclockwise lock?
Those locks are the cylinder types and can be rotated a full 360 degrees with the key inserted. I made the seats for counter clockwise locking simply because it was easier for me to watch the machining in that direction.
I may have missed it, did we have a video of that aluminum piece of jewelry run yet?
Finally got the rebuilt 8274 bolted up on the B yesterday. It should be 10k rated now.
I made a dry run with the rebuilt 8274 this morning with the Zeon 12 contactor and 9.5XP motor. It works great and the no-load line speed is going to be a pretty brisk walk. Wiring is dirt simple. The high amp contacts are all self explanatory with the 3 low amp control side terminals (labeled #1 through #3) needing to be: #2 to ground, # 1 and #3 to a SPDT switch with a 12V+ feed. I'm wiring the 12+ control feed through the accessory side of the ignition switch so it will only work with a key in the switch (should make it a little more time consuming for someone to hang a rip on the rope). That lead goes to another SPDT dash switch to split that lead to a "cab" control or to the remote. You only really need 3 wires to the remote.
good read. i do want to hear that thing run, it seems like it'd have quite a nice sound.
We all have been waiting a long time to hear it run.
Battery "management" almost done.
And one shouldn't get PO'ed on certain welding projects. It's somewhat costly.
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