Points vs. Pertronix

me too! not because I wanted something better than points but because you just cant make the distributor cap as waterproof, it has a big metal flap in it that flops around an it really s*%ks for goin muddin. The pertronix I bought was for the "other distributor" so wouldn't run worth a darn. Points work just fine they just need proper maintenance, more maintenance, but you can keep a spare set and condensor in your glove box an change em in a few minutes on the trail. the argument is virtualy irrelevant when we are talkin cjs that span 40 years, it all about what you want do do with your rig. Some here want 100% oem , others don't.

 

Good for you Howard. Nice to bring the topic back to "at the wheel performance" on a F134 where this topic started.

I am glad someone else brought up the subject on available coil voltage vs what coil voltage is actually demanded for and used by the plugs in operation.

Looking forward to your results.

 

To me everything is junk. To many factors using points. HEI's modules are no better than points, DIS multi packs are terrible. My last 3 pickups all have misses at idle. Not enough to set a misfire code but noticible non the less. Those were COP's.

Now for simplicity, for most, points are the way to go that is if everything is up to par. Take a small block chevy for example. Crank drives cam through a chain, cam drives distributor through a gear, distributor is bushed so shaft turns straight which makes points open and close the same amount eight times. Now what about crank twist? Worn chain and gears? Same goes for the drive gears on the cam and dist? Now you have to ask yourself.. Is it really firing at TDC? How many of you actually know someone with a distributor machine that can actually test one correctly? I've seen them but none of them worked anymore. Buying one at a parts house is a crap shoot. Some work, some don't.

Basically what I'm saying is use what you want but understand it completely to get the best out of it. Points have there place as well any of the electronic type. As for a Pertronix swap....well to me its a bandaid. If it wouldn't run on points but it does with a pertronix kit, do you think there might be something wrong with the distributor other than the points?

Sorry about my rant.

 

since i started this argument i will help any way possible i will dig through my spare parts engines and see if i have a worn out distributer how worn out do you want it

 

I too will look forward to your results, Howard.

Re the Mallory, I presume there are half as many cam lobes, and each point set opens/closes one after the other?

 

When you run 12V on the primary side of an ignition you will get more output voltage on the secondary side compared to running only 6-9V on the primary side ?? ( this is called electrical induction . . look it up )There's no hocus pocus here, basic electrical theory. Having taught this for many, many years, both in automotive situations and general electronic courses, I feel like you are the kid in the back not paying attention.
Now to my earlier post, whether you need the extra voltage, well that's a different subject. But it never hurts; never. And as the ignition system parts begin to degrade ( plugs, wires, rotor, cap terminals ) the extra voltage will allow the arc to happen and not get "blown out" by combustion pressure.

 

The points open and close together as a balanced system.
Edit: I believe the theory behind using dual balanced points is that twice as many contacts doubles the available current to the coil and that it helps reduce the amount of bounce and flutter points can experience as engine RPM’s increase.

 

Howard, you're either very ambitious, or you have too much time on your hands!

 

Well, two sets of points would clearly halve the point resistance. But I expect the point resistance is small compared to either the ballast resistor or the internal resistance of the coil. Something has to limit current when the points are closed. Hmm.

 

Tim I picked this from another site, http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig200.htm it tells the why's and hows of a dual point way better than I ever could.
I also run a Mallory dual point in my jeep, I haven't replaced or touched my points in 14 years or about 12,000-13,000 miles.
Fires fast and has a nice hot spark compared to my old Prestolite distributor.

 

Here Tim, this guy seems to know more about it than I do.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig200.htm

Edit: Heh, funny. Mcruff beat me to it, exact same article and everything.

 

A little slow weren't you, check my above post out!

 

Multitasking.

 

Thanks fellas - here at work, so I skimmed it and got the gist of it. They are offset, but not how I guessed. And splitting the arcing between the sets is a neat feature.

 

Howard:

I can't recall exactly, and this isn't entirely germane to the discussion of the F134 Application, but I've always taken the ballast resistor out of the circuit, whether to the pertronix module, or the coil when installing them, stock coil or not. The applications where I was using the pertronix were usually using an aftermarket coil (like the Pertronix Flamethrower, MSD Blaster, or Accel Supercoil), but near as I can tell there's no need to leave the resistor in place, I know I never have. I suppose there is something to be said for cooking a stock-type coil by running a full 12 volts to it though. I've never cooked one with this setup, but I suppose it could be possible....