So what do folks think about the valspar Tractor supply co. line of paint

As the title says, thoughts? There are a couple versions. They seem to have an enamel and then also a restoration series enamel. I have heard a couple folks say very good things on this forum, but over on the jeepforum.com site, these products are really trashed.

I can never tell if it is someone trying to build a lexus quality paint job or if the product really is not good. The complaints were cracking and chipping mostly and fading was also a common criticism.

Anyone have any direct experience with the TSC line of tractor paints on jeeps? I am thinking about using this on my frame and maybe even the tub. Wonder if I should use an epoxy primer or use the valspar/TSC primer? Or is this stuff crap and should I run away from it? Any and all opinions welcomed!

 

I used that paint on three Jeep builds, a CJ7, A J10, and my current ECJ5. Sure they fade eventually, but lay it on thick it is durable as heck, and you can always buff it out. It's old school enamel, so you don't get the same finish as today's clear coats. I just wish they made more color choices.

On my daughter's YJ, it's gonna get Summit Racing's label paint. She wants a metallic.

 

To me if you're gonna scratch it up anyways go with the cheaper paints.

 

i used it on the slug and it turned out fine.
of course being stored outside in the snow and intense sun took it's toll.
i could buff it out but since i was using the jeep hard the bed got trashed so i am going to repaint.
but i will use the same stuff
and apply it with a roller again.

 

I use the Valspar rattle can paint for various things and I love it. It goes on smooth, doesn't run easily, and lays out flat. It seems to take forever to dry but I can live with that. I also use Valspar line of latex paints around the house and love them as well for the same reasons. So based on those experiences, I would say that Valspar makes an excellent product.

 

Any of you have thoughts on the primer to use with the valspar enamels? I have some epoxy primer from PPG on hand already but I see that TSC has a line to go with the topcoat they sell. Any issues using my JP375 PPG epoxy primer under the valspar topcoat enamel (I'll spray it with the hardener as well) if I go that way.

One part for the valspar that was initially attractive is availability essentially anytime (and of course price!). I don't just want to be a cheap a$$ though. My 'real' paint store options seem limited here in central NC (I work all week and they are only open a couple hrs on Sat AM's) and the PPG or other higher end stuff is so expensive I don't want to buy too much extra. TSC is easy access and if I need a bit more I can run right over there anytime.

This is rediculous, it's an old jeep and I am having all this trouble making a paint decision

 

I've used various primers from TSC's brand to rattle cans, it all came out fine/acceptable. My Jeeps have always been tools, and not show pieces.






And yeah, I have bias towards red Jeeps.....

 

Thanks, that's the point I need to learn. The paint will not be my limiting factor, this is my first real painting. I will be lucky to achieve a 50 ft paint job I suspect. Great info, red is good too!

 

The key to an acceptable paint job is prep work and I cannot specify that enough. The more sanding you do and the fewer steps you skip, the happier you will ultimately be with the final paint. Most top coat imperfections can be wet sanded and buffed out with a little elbow grease but you cannot fix underlying sanding scratches once paint goes on.

As for primer, an epoxy primer will ultimately stand up better than a lacquer primer will. If you plan to use the Jeep off road where it will get brush and branch scuffs then a high-end primer will help protect those scratches from going down to the metal. But for appearance over durability, there isn't much difference between expensive and cheap primers.

 

For my frame, I wire-wheeled and did a little sandblasting in places I could not get too. Then I sprayed with a 2 part epoxy primmer. Once it got hard, I use the TSC black and used the hardener the sell as an additive. So far in the build process, it seems very tough. I know the primmer is hard as a rock. And the paint does not scratch very easy. After a year outside with nothing but a rolling frame, the top that got all the sun was a little chalkey. Nothing bad and I thing I''m just going on with the build. I don't see any real rust anyplace. A few little pin pricks here and there but nothing bad. I would use it again if I could....

 

Most definitely used the hardener with the TSC Valspar farm implement paint. If you don't it'll take weeks to fully cure.

 

Here is mine with the Valspar farm implement paint in MF gray. It was pretty easy to put down. defiantly use the hardener because it takes forever to cure. Mine has been on now for almost 3 years and it has held up well. Mine has faded a little, and has some brush scratches, they will buff out! If I was to do it over I would.

 

to ge tthe shade closest to Michigan yellow i mixed the regular with resto series paint...just as an fyi for more color options...i like the resto series, but they just dont have enough colors..

 

I've done a total of four paint jobs in the last 2 years with NO prior experience or any guidance. One was done with the TSC/Valspar regular grade, one with restoration grade, one PPG industrial coating and one HIGH dollar two stage. The restoration sseries was by far the easiest to lay flat and seems to be holding up well. Every time I look at it I am amazed at how good it looks. The other three - not so much Good luck

 

I have noticed that on that site if you swim against the "accepted" current of ideology trashing is the standard response.
We just got a TSC here and I'll possibly use this paint once I get my camping trailer built.

 

That's great to hear (the last endorsement of the TSC paints). I read alot of these forums and there's a ton of good info but also alot of 'stuff' to wade through and size up against what I am trying to do. Heck, I see some folks use krylon rattle cans and come out with something I'd be happy if I attain when all is said and done. I think spraying the TSC paint has to be decent at a minimum and probably will be every bit as good as my skills allow. I also have to keep reminding myself this is supposed to be a fun project to learn and make mistakes, and generally just figure out what works for me and what doesn't. I'm too damn worried about making a mistake.

 

Don't worry about making mistakes, one nice thing about Jeeps is there isn't much body to sand down and repaint. One thing I would recommend is to start with one panel like the hood, you can even remove it and do it completely separate. That way you can practice a few times until you get your technique down.

Before I painted the first time, I drove myself crazy reading everything I could. Some people would say NEVER do X and other people would say ALWAYS do X. I about drove myself insane until I just tried different things for myself and developed my own techniques. I found that, when it comes to automotive paint, there is no shortage of opinions...and that's exactly what they are, opinions! The only absolute in painting is prep work -- the more preparation you do, the happier you will be with the result and vice versa.

 

My build is getting expensive due to all the visits to the psychiatrist from all the decisionmaking stress!!! R)

 

this is pretty much on topic so here goes.
when i painted the slug i used the farm implement paint and a roller.
it took days and days to dry
someone suggested recently that i add japan drier to the paint next time.
what do you guys think?

 

I don't know about the Valspar Tractor paint but a lot of paint is listed as "Industrial Paint" which makes you think that it's made for heavy duty use BUT what it really means is that it's made for use on items that are always kept indoors and that it contains no UV inhibitors. That's why it's usually less than half the costs of automotive paint. UV inhibitors are one of the most expensive components in the paint but if you don't add them the paint will fade badly within a year or two if the item is stored outside. You need to find out how much UV inhibitors is in that Valspar Tractor paint. Otherwise pay more money and get good automotive paint. Sure it costs more but compared to the work involved in prepping then the actual spraying, the paint costs is comparatively small and the paint will last MUCH longer.