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66 CJ5 Rebuild

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by PieLut, Jul 25, 2010.

  1. Jun 10, 2011
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,538
    Planning on opening up the bores? Wish I had done mine when I had it rebuilt. I only went .010 over. 231 OF crank?
     
  2. Jun 11, 2011
    PieLut

    PieLut Member

    Glendale, Arizona
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    Messages:
    464
    Probably go with a 20 thou bore. Machine shop said cylinders are 5 thou out of round. Not sure if I have a 231 OF crank, how do I tell? School me :) Also, what is the general consensus regarding hardened valve seats? I'm planning on replacing exhaust side with hardened seats.
     
  3. Jun 11, 2011
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
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    I think the hardened seats are necessary with todays fuels. That's what I had done with my heads. I didn't research the 231 crank when I had my engine re-built (about 10 years ago). I'd look for confirmation from someone else on this, but the way I understand the V6 progression is, in the beginning there was the 225 odd fire, then it was bored and the crank had some stroke added to it to make the 231 cid odd fire. If I'm not mistaken the 231 odd fire crank works in the 225 block. Here is a general overview on Novak Conversions site. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/engines_general.htm It may be more trouble than it's worth, but worth checking into. If I had to do mine over I'd definitely talk to the builder about it. Looks like you would have to bore the block .050 over to make 231 cid
     
  4. Jun 12, 2011
    Mjragan

    Mjragan Member

    socal-Simi Valley
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2010
    Messages:
    89
    Awsome job Pielu! just my 2 cents, hardened valve seats are a must. As far as the crank goes the 225 and the 231 both have a stroke of 3.40". The 225 has a stock bore of 3.750" and the 231 has a stock bore of 3.80". Hope this helps Mike
     
  5. Jun 12, 2011
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    There ya go. I knew someone out there would know more about this than me. :)
     
  6. Jun 12, 2011
    PieLut

    PieLut Member

    Glendale, Arizona
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
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    464
    Thanks Mike, the block is a 225 and hardened seats are on the list. As I realize that my pockets are getting shallow by the minute, don't expect to see many engine mods. I will be using a Comp 252H cam while I have it apart and most likely an oil pump shim kit from TA Performance. Pertronix distributor upgrade too.
     
  7. Jun 24, 2011
    PieLut

    PieLut Member

    Glendale, Arizona
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    Messages:
    464
    All the parts are lined up, block is honed .020 over, heads are cleaned, hardened exhaust valve seats, one new exhaust valve, new freeze plugs. I bought a new timing cover since mine was beat up and pitted at the water pump. Timing cover from Summit, part 500231 made by Pioneer and at the price of 102.99.
    New water pump, stock replacement oil pump, TA performance oil pump shim kit and booster plate along with pressure regulator. Comp cams 252H and comp cams push rods.
    ...ooh yeah... she is ready for assembly :D Gotta wait till Sunday though :cry:

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    Last edited: Jan 1, 2018
    Hellion likes this.
  8. Jun 25, 2011
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
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    If you are using a re-ground crank, be sure all the oil passages are clean. I'd blow Brakeclean through it followed by compressed air. A LOT of re-builders don't bother cleaning the oil passages and it ends up being the assembler (you) that's responsible. I learned this lesson the hard way. I also like to run a tap down all the threaded holes in the block to make sure they're clean. This helps you get consistent torque readings, not to mention you can spin most of the bolts in by hand.
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2011
    Valentino84 likes this.
  9. Jun 25, 2011
    jrscafe

    jrscafe Member

    Janesville,...
    Joined:
    May 14, 2011
    Messages:
    68
    Very nice work. When will you be ready to start my 63?
     
  10. Jun 27, 2011
    PieLut

    PieLut Member

    Glendale, Arizona
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    Messages:
    464
    Fun times! Engine build in 110 degree heat 8) Hard stuff is done and everything went well. I didn't realize the fuel eccentric was bad, so time for a new one. New timing cover needed some minor "adjustments," but I guess thats expected.

    Pistons in
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    Last edited: Jan 1, 2018
    Valentino84 likes this.
  11. Jun 27, 2011
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    110* might be a little better than the 20* range I worked in all winter. Maybe not. ;)
     
  12. Jun 27, 2011
    PieLut

    PieLut Member

    Glendale, Arizona
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
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    464
    Just about anything higher than 20* is better. It wasn't bad here, a big swamp cooler helps as long as the humidity is low :) BTW John, good job on the shackles :beer:
     
  13. Aug 1, 2011
    PieLut

    PieLut Member

    Glendale, Arizona
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
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    Lots of progress to report...I finished the engine overhaul with lots of goodies. The new timing chain cover from Summit was close to a perfect fit. I had to enlarge the two holes where the dowel pins go and I had to grind a very small portion near the inside of the cover where the right timing chain tensioner sits. The timing cover has extra mounting holes on the upper left and right side for blocks that utilize them. I also grabbed a new SACS clutch kit, part K1874-03
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    New oil pump gears, shims, booster late and adjustable regulator from TA performance.

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    Engine prepped for paint, I used Detroit Diesel Alpine Green engine paint in the can (Dupli-Color engine enamel DE1618).

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    The exciting part was when all the goodies landed at their new home...Painted the bellhousing with Dupli-Color engine enamel (DE 1650 cast coat aluminum). Apparently AA is the only place (that I could find) that sells a new clutch fork boot for these things.

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    I repaired the alternator bracket since it had a couple cracks...I started by removing the cracked piece and machining a new one. Then some weld and paint, easy peasy...The new 93 amp alternator fits nicely :)

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    I will be sand blasting the stock exhaust manifolds and using header paint to finish those up.

    I will also be installing the transmission mount. I made a custom crossmember with round tubing. Most of the crossmember is complete, but I needed the drivetrain in before I could finish it up. Here is a sneak preview.

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    Last edited: Jan 1, 2018
    Hellion and Valentino84 like this.
  14. Aug 1, 2011
    willys59cj5

    willys59cj5 Sponsor

    Gilroy, CA
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2005
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    660
    Nice work....it looks like you've done this before.
     
  15. Aug 1, 2011
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    Very well done, Pielut.
     
  16. Aug 1, 2011
    PieLut

    PieLut Member

    Glendale, Arizona
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
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    Thanks Ryan and John...this is my first build from the ground up. I don't think I would have attempted this much work if it wasn't for the expansive amount of knowledge from this site...:) Kudos to the oldtimers who did all this work without the internet...can't imagine what that would be like..:shock:
     
  17. Aug 1, 2011
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    Roger that! :iagree:
     
  18. Aug 16, 2011
    PieLut

    PieLut Member

    Glendale, Arizona
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
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    Tie rods are done. I used 1" heavy wall DOM tubing. I believe the wall thickness is .281, an odd size but thats what the steel yard had. I found some USA made 11/16-18 left and right hand taps. Speedway Motors has them for $20 right hand and $30 left hand. Great price for an odd ball tap. Part number 91281037. I drilled each end of the rods with a 5/8" drill bit and then used the taps to finish it off. After the lathe work, I used the mill to create two flat spots for a wrench. This will make adjustments easier. I found a great local place that stocked the 11/16-18 jam nuts. Everybody wants an arm and a leg for these things, but I grabbed them for $3 a piece (Foddrill Motorsports). Tie rods are from NAPA, same part numbers as the Moog brand. I welded on my home made tapered bungs and it's all good.

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    Last edited: Jan 1, 2018
  19. Aug 17, 2011
    jpman

    jpman New Member

    Ponca City, Oklahoma
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2011
    Messages:
    13
    lookin good!
     
  20. Aug 17, 2011
    pilebuck

    pilebuck Member

    western WA.
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2008
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    239
    Just wondering why you mounted your box so low i raised mine up quite a bit to clear rocks and other things looks good
     
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