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Brake Drums

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by cody67, Jan 5, 2011.

  1. Jan 5, 2011
    cody67

    cody67 New Member

    Roswell NM
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2004
    Messages:
    17
    Good gosh almighty!! How do you get the drums off of these old devils? I have beat them, kicked them, and cussed them and they will not come loose. I currently have them soaked in PB Blaster and I am hoping for the best. If any of you have a trick please let me know.
     
  2. Jan 5, 2011
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
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    Apr 4, 2010
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    7,111
    Front?
    Rear?
    What year/model/axles etc.?
    More info please!!!!!!
     
  3. Jan 5, 2011
    cody67

    cody67 New Member

    Roswell NM
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2004
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    17
    1967 CJ 5 stock rear axel Dana 44. I have pulled drums before but man, I have never seen them stuck like this.
     
  4. Jan 5, 2011
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    5,349
    There probably not truly stuck, but common practice back then on jeeps was to swedge the steel around the studs. You will need to grind the swedged material out around the studs and then pull them off.
     
  5. Jan 5, 2011
    flyingtim

    flyingtim Member

    Branford, CT
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Messages:
    69
    Do you mean pull the drums off the hubs, or pull the whole works off? A 67 is still a tapered rear axle, so usually you need the big puller to yank the drum and hub off together. Pulling the drums off the hubs is a tougher job, you'd probably need an arbor press and a flak jacket...
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  6. Jan 5, 2011
    tcfeet

    tcfeet Member

    east of west,...
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    May 30, 2009
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    352
    Do a "search" on brake drums. Tons of advice..
    Just don't give up..
     
  7. Jan 5, 2011
    jeep2003

    jeep2003 Well-Known Member

    Upstate NY
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    May 30, 2006
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    1,918
    you need puller dude. that pulls on the studs not the outside of the drum :) dont take the nut off all the way or the whole shebang will shebang your shins
     
  8. Jan 6, 2011
    cody67

    cody67 New Member

    Roswell NM
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2004
    Messages:
    17
    I am just trying to get the drum off to get to a leaky slave cylinder and have a look at the pads. I have done this on many older vehicles in the past, and usually a couple of pops with a hammer on the outside edge will get it off, but not this time. I think Mcruff has the solution. I will try that after work and thanks everyone.
     
  9. Jan 6, 2011
    Brush Jeeper

    Brush Jeeper Member

    Houston, Texas
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2009
    Messages:
    62
    I don't know whether the 67 is built this way, but my 53 has flat head screws holding the drums to the hubs. They are easy to overlook and forget about.
     
  10. Jan 6, 2011
    EricM

    EricM Active Member

    Southern California
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    Dec 19, 2007
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    1,019
  11. Jan 6, 2011
    Philip-TX

    Philip-TX Member

    Flower Mound, Tx
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2010
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    156
    Agreed. Check that the 3 screws are out.
    [​IMG]

    I had to use a BFH and an impact driver to avoid stripping the flat heads.
    [​IMG]

    Not sure the condition of what you're working with or when the last time they were removed. The grimey shoes a likely what are holding them on. Try and get the grime out of there. Blow air, good soakings.

    I had to cut one of the brake shoe spring retainer pins (from the back) on one side, [​IMG]
    to allow the shoes to move a little so the drum would come off.

    Good Luck.
     
  12. Jan 6, 2011
    sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

    Perth, WA
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    Sep 20, 2002
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    9,221
    McRuff is right.

    The pullers won't help you until the drum is off.

    Check for the screws, though I didn't think that any brakes after the 9" drums had them.
     
  13. Jan 6, 2011
    cody67

    cody67 New Member

    Roswell NM
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2004
    Messages:
    17
    I think the screws are on earlier models, mine does not have them. I just have a nice flat unyielding surface that taunts me every time I look at it.
     
  14. Jan 6, 2011
    Philip-TX

    Philip-TX Member

    Flower Mound, Tx
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2010
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    156
    Look at it MEANER. :)
     
  15. Jan 6, 2011
    Brush Jeeper

    Brush Jeeper Member

    Houston, Texas
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2009
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    62
    If you havn't already done this, open the bleeder valve and then beat on the drum. A few Hail Mary's is probably a good idea too.
     
  16. Jan 6, 2011
    m38willys

    m38willys Jeep Vice

    Green Cove...
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    Sep 30, 2002
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    690
    I don't know if anyones mentioned it yet, but ensure the shoes are adjusted all the way in so their the least diameter. Sometimes they'll wear a groove into the drum and the lip caused by the wear is smaller than the shoes diameter.

    Have to make sure they're adjusted down or they'll really be hard to get off.
     
  17. Jan 6, 2011
    cody67

    cody67 New Member

    Roswell NM
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2004
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    17
    Ok, promise not to laugh too hard. Seriously!! It seems that these early CJ’s are not what I am accustomed to.
    Now, on “normal” drums you have a hub with the lug studs attached to it, and the drum slips over that. Right? Am I right? YES! Well not on this SOB!
    Here is what I did. I tried what I “thought” Mcruff was telling me to do and took my little grinder and tried to grind what I thought was the “sweld” from around the lug stud. Know what I found? I found that the lug stud is actually pressed into the drum. Huuuh? That aint right! Oh, no but it is! It is right! That is the way it is built, and no amount of cussing, kicking, BFHammering, and mean looks will change this fact. So, if you want to pull the drum here is what you do.

    1. Remove the dust cover. Just take a screw driver and pry around the edges until it pops out. At this point I didn’t care if it was threaded or not but every thing turned out ok and I can reuse it. That is a good thing when I get in the don’t give a sh-stuff mode.
    2. Remove the cotter pin.
    3. Remove the big giant nut.
    4. Don’t worry about the square pin, it will come out with the drum.
    5. Get a drum puller. Yeah, you will need it!! It is worse than a steering wheel, I am not kidding.
    6. Pull that sucker off.

    Ok, stop laughing it aint that funny!!!!!!! If you want to see funny, I am going to start on the front drums tomorrow. Now, THAT will probably be funny, because there is no way they are attached the same way as the rear ones. I’ll let you know how it goes.
     
  18. Jan 6, 2011
    jeep2003

    jeep2003 Well-Known Member

    Upstate NY
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    what did i tell ya :D those things are torqued to like 250ft/lbs on a tapered shaft no kidding. The front is just as dumb. youv got to take the locking hubs off and the two big axle nuts and the wheel beaings and everything come out. its all pressed together one piece with the hub.
     
  19. Jan 6, 2011
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    5,349
    If you grind the swedged material out it will come apart without a hub puller, they are not pressed together they use a tool to seat the material on the drum when its mounted. This use to be a standard procedure on cars from the 30's thru the early 60's, simialr to left hand lug nuts.
     
  20. Jan 6, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Sep 22, 2002
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    You don't have to pull the drum off to use a puller on the hub.
    I always pull the hub/ drum with a puller, then press the studs out, open up the swage in the lug holes in the drums, and reassemble.
     
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