T-18 Re-installation

Venting. Broke my T-18 and t-case and OD about 3 months ago. Been slowly working at it in my free time, of which I get very, very little. Rebuilt the trans a couple months ago, drilled and retapped a bunch of stuff a month ago, ordered parts, etc. Finally got some time last night and today to start putting it back in.

It wasn't until after I haused the behemoth up into the frame and bolted it into the bellhousing that I noticed the clutch fork didn't quite look right. Off at sort of an odd angle. Got the flashlight out, did some wiggling around, realized that the spring clip holding it to the pivot ball was bent. Got in there with a screwdriver, pried it back and snapped it in place, everything looked okay.

Go to put the slave on, free play won't adjust right to where it was before I took the trans down. Tried the pedal, went all the way to the floor without the throwout hitting the pressure plate. Got down there and adjusted slave all the way to the end of the rod. Press the pedal a bit, feel resistance as the throwout hits the pressure plate - good! Press the pedal the rest of the way - SNAP. The MC rod bends in half at about a 45 deg angle.

Thinking pressure plate must be the problem. Torqued it evenly in 10 lb increments to 40 ft-lbs. Looked okay to me. Don't know when I'll get time to pull the trans again.

 

Sorry to hear of the trouble. I know it's frustrating when you get so much work done only to have it fall apart. Hang in there.

 

I had to put a new bearing retainer on along with an input shaft. Both are Fords. I had the bearing retainer turned down for a GM throwout. Is it possible the Ford bearing retainer is long enough to press against the fingers of the pressure plate? When I loosen the bolts on the trans, the trans pops back almost 3/16" or so. I can't fully press the trans flat against the bell by hand, I have to bolt it down before it seats flush.

Honestly considering towing this up to a mechanic and saying "fix it." I have zero time anymore. Kinda frustrated. Really wish I could be driving this right now. I don't even know who I'd tow it to that would work on my trash; seems like most everyone nowadays is afraid of the liability of working on "modified" vehicles. Wish Patrick lived closer.

 

Take a vacation and come west.
Andrew

 

I can't remember but I thought maybe the ford retainer got cut down in length as well. check with Novak.

 

yes , you need to cut for lengh also..... I cut my T-18 ford retainer to match the dauntless bellhousing , turn it to use the buick throwout bearing and must be cut to lengh.

 

Thinking I'm going to be pulling my bearing retainer out to do a little cutting. I think I measured for length based on what I thought was an old T-14 bearing retainer since the T-18 bearing retainer I'm replacing was broken in several pieces. Turns out, I'm pretty sure what I thought was the T-14 retainer is actually a T-150 retainer which was designed for the late-CJ stickout. I can shine my flashlight in past the fork and pretty sure I see retainer going into the pressure plate. Ugh. I really don't want to pull this trans down again...

 

I have that input retainer on my garage shelf...waiting patiently for my Ford T-18 install. I bought this from Novak; custom made for using the Ford T-18 with the Dauntless bell.
Here are the critical dimensions (accurate to two decimals).

T/O retainer diameter: 1.38"


Overall length: 3.20"


Outer diameter 4.68" (I think Clint had his bell machined so this smaller OD retainer wasn't necessary in his case)

 

This here website is top notch, just like the people that frequent here!
Excellent information abounds

 

(Sigh.) Yep, pretty sure my length was somewhere around 3.75", IIRC. Thanks for posting the pics.

 

Thanks to DNB for posting the measurements and pics!
The Ford bearing retainer must be machined to match a standard GM front bearing retainer in od, diameter where the to bearing rides, and length. Sometimes you have to use allen headed bolts as well for clearance for the bellhousing to slide over the bearing retainer. In some cases the stock bolts for the front bearing retainer will stick out slightly and cause clearance issues.
If you need more accurate measurements let me know....

 

Okay, came home after work and dropped the trans back down. Yup, cut the bearing retainer too long - a little bit over 3.75". As an added bonus, it was an aluminum retainer and it cracked near the base from being cranked down against the pressure plate. If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all. I do have a steel T-18 retainer here, but hasn't been turned or cut. Gonna have to sit a while longer.

 

I feel your pain. That thing weighs a ton.

 

Are you using studs to align the tranny when you put it in? If not, it sure makes getting one of those pigs back in a lot easier. I use a chain hoist hung from my roll cage to heave it up in there. Cut the heads off a couple of bolts the same size as the mounting bolts, screw 'em in and slip the tranny over them. I filed flat spots on the ends of the studs to get a wrench on them if needed. When I was setting up my hydraulic clutch I had that bad boy in and out 4 times in one day...........with the t-case attached.

 

David, do you have a part number and price from Novak? I've called twice this week, got Ken on the phone both times, says there is no part number for the machined retainer in their computer, only the engine adapter kit which includes the retainer.