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heater switch

Discussion in 'Early Jeep Restoration and Research' started by wilson, Jul 2, 2006.

  1. Jul 2, 2006
    wilson

    wilson Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2005
    Messages:
    52
    I have a 62 CJ-5 I have the the three push pull knobs mounted in a bracket under the dash temp. air, and defrost. To keep it reasonably stock where should the heater fan switch be located? Should it be a toggle switch or some type of rotary switch? And yes I know, I aint gonna get much heat outta it.
     
  2. Jul 2, 2006
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Sep 21, 2002
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    I believe that setup is the same as in the trucks and wagons. Should be the one in the middle, for air is also a rotary switch for the fan control, 2 speeds. Let us know if that's the case.
     
  3. Jul 2, 2006
    kiowamtp

    kiowamtp Member

    DFW
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2004
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    618
    X2

    From a 1960 owners manual

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Jul 2, 2006
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Cool! That confirms my thoughts, since they looked to be the same.
     
  5. Jul 2, 2006
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    As far as heat output, my wagon gets plenty warm with the stock heater. That air intake duct flow makes a lot of difference.
     
  6. Jul 3, 2006
    kiowamtp

    kiowamtp Member

    DFW
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    Pics Pics Pics!!!


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Jul 5, 2006
    wilson

    wilson Member

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    Mar 25, 2005
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    O.K. thanks guys got that figured out now, I doubt if I can get the stock setup working, but I can at least get it to looking like it is supposed to.
     
  8. Jul 6, 2006
    swiz9

    swiz9 New Member

    Pittsburgh, PA
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2004
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    30
    Does anyone have a stock setup? I need one for my '62.
     
  9. Feb 1, 2010
    kthiltgen

    kthiltgen Member

    Springfield, MO
    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2009
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    65
    Sorry guys but I am not getting these pictures on my computer to see what these controls are looking like. it is telling me that these images or videos have been moved or deleated?
     
  10. Feb 1, 2010
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    This thread is (was) 3 1/2 years old. The photobucket account holder deleted them, or they were otherwise removed from the album.
     
  11. Feb 1, 2010
    kiowamtp

    kiowamtp Member

    DFW
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  12. Feb 2, 2010
    nhjeep

    nhjeep NH Jeep

    NH
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  13. Feb 18, 2010
    kiowamtp

    kiowamtp Member

    DFW
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    Dec 24, 2004
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    Here is a link with the info.
    http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35308&highlight=heater+switch

    Apparantly the letters are hard to find now. Lately there was discussion that the letters were not being made anymore. I know Colorado Springs had a decent electrical store that stocked a bunch of the letters. Maybe someone can get in touch with one of the members there and see if they still have some and make a group purchase. Seems like there is at least 4 from this board looking for the letters. I cut and pasted the following info from the link above, which has the meat of the info you wanted.


    "The dry erase letters are made by Datak Corporation. The word/letter part number is K58. That includes a bunch of words to include OFF, LO, HI, etc. The words not already together are FAN, AIR, DEF, and TEMP. The package has individual letters that are needed to make those words. K62 (switch patterns) had the lines for the temp slider. The arrow end I made by using two separate smaller lines and angled them together at the end. Each sheet package was $5ish. I also bought the spray Datak makes to apply over the letters. It was $6 and some change. The key is not to use too much clear coat spray on your first coat. Some letters may float up and move. Apply a small thin spray and then let dry. Then apply a heavier coat as necessary. IMHO it is easier to buy the spray can than have to pull out the compressor and gun. Once sprayed you then have to clean your gun out. For such a small project it is not worth the effort....just buy can."

    I looked all over the normal stores. Hobby lobby, Michaels, etc. Come to find out they are made specifically for electronic applications. Old faceplates, switches, circuit boards, etc. I would start by looking at your local electronic stores that sell boards, diodes, computer switches, etc.

    Also, available online at

    http://www.minute-man.com/acatalog/D...u_Datak.h tml

    Expect shipping to be high though.
     
  14. Feb 19, 2010
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    Mar 29, 2007
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    5,922
    I found a company Russell Industries and it shows 1/8" letters (white) so I sent e-mail to the sales dept and asked about it. No response back and that was two weeks ago. I cannot call on phone due bad hearing. Still looking around tho. No luck yet. Walt.
     
  15. Feb 19, 2010
    kiowamtp

    kiowamtp Member

    DFW
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    Maybe you guys can find some vinyl stick on letters that may work. Once you clear coat it a couple times it would look the same.

    Also, for the rub on transfer I found that a wooden stick (i used chop sticks) worked the best to rub them onto the plate.
     
  16. Feb 23, 2010
    panzer

    panzer Super Mod Staff Member

    Columbus, OH
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  17. Feb 27, 2010
    CO64CJ5

    CO64CJ5 Member

    Littleton, CO
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    Feb 26, 2007
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    When I get around to restoring mine, I'm considering trying this: DIY Dry Transfers

    It's a bit pricey, but would have other applications.
     
  18. Mar 1, 2010
    4XFool

    4XFool 60 Willys CJ5

    Washington, PA
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2007
    Messages:
    56
    I'd like to switch topic back to the three-knob setup if I could and ask if anyone can help me with this.
    My CJ5 was pretty bad when I got it and I have basically started from scratch. It had a "placebo" driver's side heater with the blower, but nothing else. I purchased a used set of cables. From right to left the chrome knobs were labeled "Defrost", "Air Control", and "Temp". The Defrost cable is 23", the Air Control cable (has a switch) is 23", and the Temp cable is 31". The shorter cables have a slightly smaller loop on the end than the longest has.
    My question is this. Where should these cables go? My logic says the Defrost cable should go to the flapper in the duct (do not have this piece yet). The Air Control cable and switch should operate the flap in the box containing the heater core and run the blower. The problem with that is the cable is way too short to reach the rod on the flapper and the loop too small. The Temp cable is the only one that works if I attach it to the water flow valve. The loop is the correct size and the length works.
    Do I have any of this right or am I missing something?
    Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.
     
  19. Mar 1, 2010
    panzer

    panzer Super Mod Staff Member

    Columbus, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2003
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    I believe the cables you are talking about are for the Intermediate CJ-5's.
    They are listed '78-'86.
    http://www.jeepdoc.com/catalog/partframe.asp?id=146

    [​IMG]

    I used the standard choke cables for mine. The ones w/ no name stamped on them.
    You can get them from NAPA or similar.
     
  20. Mar 1, 2010
    4XFool

    4XFool 60 Willys CJ5

    Washington, PA
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2007
    Messages:
    56
    I guess it would have been helpful to state the year also. I am working on a 1960 CJ5 and am trying to keep as close to "original looking" as possible. This is the cable set and heater I am working with.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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