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Scout 44 axle

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by NoFlyZone, Dec 26, 2009.

  1. Dec 26, 2009
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
    Messages:
    578
    Okay I got a front dana 44 along with T15 and dana20 from a scout II for doing some favors. What should I do?

    I hear a lot of negative about the scout II axle such as 0 degree castor, weak outers, no turning radius....

    Is it worth it to fix these things? I still have to source a rear to match. He had the rear axles and brakes but no housing.

    The width seems perfect.

    Can I use the T15 behind the buick? I understand they are the strongest of the 3 speeds and synchro'd 1st.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    They cleaned up pretty good with the pressure washer.
     
  2. Dec 26, 2009
    brandon533b

    brandon533b Member since 2007

    Yakima,WA
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    Mar 2, 2007
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    i heard they where undisirable also, but anything bigger than the 25/27 is an upgrade in my opinion.... im interseted in how this comes out.
    could you redrill the front or the back? insted of getting another rear axle?
    whats the overall width of the axle?
     
  3. Dec 26, 2009
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    5,349
    You will need to outboard at least the front springs on your jeep. You should also cut the knuckles. rotate them and then reweld to correct the caster issue. I have a friend that has Scout axles on his 77 cj5 and loves them. They are wide compared to early cj axles and the narrow track axles. If you like the wide stance go for it, they are so supperior to your factory axles that its pathetic.

    The axle is something like 58" wms to wms.
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2009
  4. Dec 26, 2009
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    May 25, 2006
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    2,871
    I use em for the stub-shafts. 27 spline with the big u-joint.
     
  5. Dec 26, 2009
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
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    578
    Does anybody know if I can swap chevy 10 bolt knuckles on it?
     
  6. Dec 26, 2009
    LarryD

    LarryD Member

    Gallup NM/ 4 Corners
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    Jul 7, 2006
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    Looks like you got disc brakes. The D20 is the same except the shifter, I have a D20 from a Scout and it had the better J shift which seems superiour to theT shift on Jeeps.
     
  7. Dec 26, 2009
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Sep 23, 2002
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    12,529
    The Scout 2 front is close to 60" wms to wms. As McRuff noted you will most likely need to rotate the inner housing "C" to get the caster right. Not terribly hard but it is a lot of work. You will need to outboard the springs and if you want to get full steering out of it you will need to change the knuckles as the steering arms are very long. 10 bolt GM knuckles will fit right on the housing. The Scout 2 44 however used 8 studs to hold the spindle and brake bracket to the knuckle, not 6 like Jeep and GM. You can redrill the knuckles for the Scout stuff. That's what I have on my 6 right now and have done it a bunch of times with no issues. If your 10 bolt knuckles are disc brake (should be) then the two studs at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock should already line up and can be used to mark the rest of the holes for drilling the knuckle. Knock out the rest of the studs and use the spindle as a jig. There usually is a little grinding to be done on the knuckle to clear the Scout Caliper, but not a big issue.
    Like Daryl said, the outer stub axles are dimensionally the same as CJ Dana 30's except the Scout uses the dana 44 sized 297/760x U-joint.
     
  8. Dec 26, 2009
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
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    Regarding the T-15.
    The housing is different as is the front bearing retainer and input shaft. Better off starting with a CJ T-15.
    The 20 is a good conversion for a Jeep. It has far fewer moving parts in the shifter assembly so doesn't get the slop that is associated with CJ model 20's. I have lots of customers that convert to the Scout linkage or go twin stick. Depending on the year of the 20 it may have a slightly different gear set than other years. There was an early and a late and required different input gears. The low range ratio was the same. If you can get the intermediate # off the gear Novak has a great chart to show which one is correct. IIRC the two #'s were 18-5-10 and 18-5-16. They shared tooth counts for the input gear but the pitch was different.
     
  9. Dec 26, 2009
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
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    578
    yuk, the inside of the t15 is nasty. Luckily they don't share the water, sand rust mixture with the d20. It looks brand new. I should be able to just slap that 20 on the back of my t90 in place of the d18, right?
     
  10. Dec 26, 2009
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
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    578
    I was thinking 10 bolt parts knuckle out and end up with 6 lug and pick up one of the millions of wagoneer rears to match. How's that sound?
     
  11. Dec 26, 2009
    brandon533b

    brandon533b Member since 2007

    Yakima,WA
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    Mar 2, 2007
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    220
    are you still running the offset rearend? your driveline will be at an angle.
    i've heard some say its real bad to have that and i've heard some say no biggie...
     
  12. Dec 26, 2009
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2006
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    Nah the offset rear end will be about 8 inches diferent than the front. Maybe a 9", maybe a fullsize 44
     
  13. Dec 26, 2009
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    That would work. You will have to change to the outer stub from the 10 bolt as well but no biggie.
    Just realize you will be going 6 lug wheels from 5 lug wheels.
     
  14. Dec 26, 2009
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    I am going to use a Scout II axle as the base for the replacement in the 3B. Yes, there are a few of problems: caster, and long steering arms, along with the short right side tube. After kicking this around a couple of years, I decided to use the Scout housing (the centerline of right spring pad cast into the housing is almost exactly the same distance from the pinion centerline as the 25/27's). The right tube/C is going to be cut down from a Ford high pinion to the length of a Chevy inner shaft (the high pinion housing will be used with 53 tubes for the new rear full float), with the left side just the shortened Scout tube/C. I am going to use all of the Scout outters, including the disc brakes, with the Reid knuckles that have the shorter Chevy steering arms. The tie rod will be inverted but use the Reid steering arms with the drag link attaching to the high steer. Really a LOT of work just to keep the springs under the frame rails and the wheels at least partially under the body.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Dec 27, 2009
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
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    Cool knuckles! Can you give me a rough measurement to from center to tie rod hole on those? I think I'm going to redrill the tie rod holes in the stock knuckles. Taking the axle apart yesterday and today and everything seems to be in pretty good shape. Turning the knuckles should be the toughest part.
     
  16. Dec 27, 2009
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    Someplace between 7 3/8 to 7 1/2, centerline to centerline ball joint to tie rod, for Reid knuckles.
     
  17. Dec 27, 2009
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
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    That's right where the first hole is on these. Anybody see a problem running tierod on the bottom and drag link on top? Now I need to score some springs. I need some stock front wranglers and stock rear xjs.
     
  18. Dec 28, 2009
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    No problem with running the tie rod on bottom except it's more exposed to damage. If you are going with a hi-steer arm and knuckle it's not too much more to go complete hi steer. Generally the tie rod is a slightly different length for hi steer versus having it down on the stock steering arms so be aware there may be some mods that need making to the stock tie rod. Good excuse to go heavier duty also.
     
  19. Jan 6, 2010
    NoFlyZone

    NoFlyZone Member

    Ridgeville, SC
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    I am having a hell of time turning the C's. I have ground through the weld into the tube and I have heated the C and beat on it with both 3lb hammers and a 8lb sledge. I can't even get a crack to show up.
     
  20. Jan 6, 2010
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
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    Those are some good deep welds.
    You should gouge the welds out with an Air-Arc. (carbon arc gouging)
     
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