Ultimate D18 stop leak thread

The n00b in me is showing and I don't feel like searching through tons of threads to gather "whats best" and "whats worst"
None the less, whenever I take the Jeep out, I'm tired of putting in a quart of oil and then stopping every now and then to check out my fluid level. My OD don't leak. PTO don't leak. Between transmission and x-fer leaks a bit. Front and rear outputs leak.... A LOT...Pan oozes. Where would I find quality seals for these? When it marks it's territory it's somewhat embarassing.... I remember someone mentioning using a rather thin seal where you can double stack them. I plan on getting the parts, towing it to work, and just using the lifts there. Make it a lot...LOT easier to change them. Do I need to tear down the transfer case to replace the front and rear output seals? Should I go ahead and order new front and rear yokes in the event mine are grooved? TIA

 

there is a guy hear in cali that is the master when it comes to jeep running gear he would be able to help you with anything you need name is john and company is called border parts 1800-533-0171

 

New gaskets and a tube black rtv stopped the leak I had in gold. Make sure the lip on the pan is straight also. oh yeah rtv the splines on the yoke....

 

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also make sure the sealing surface of the yokes is in good shape, i.e. no grooves.

 

CR/Federal Mogel Speedy sleeves will fix a grooved yoke. I usually sleeve just about all of them when replacing the seals. If the yoke is grooved, replacing just the seal will not usually stop the leak or if it does, it will only be for a short period. There are several types of hooked seal pullers that make getting them out with the shaft still in-place a bit easier. Craftsman markets at least 2 of them.

 

Want to practice on mine Sammy? I am planning on pulling it Sunday to rebuild.

 

Make sure there are no grooves or pitting on the yokes is #1. I've found speedi sleeves are almost as expensive as a new yoke but they do work.
Make sure pan is straight and the bolt holes are not dimpled. If so then they need straightened before putting pan on. Put a thin coat of sealer on the splines like mentioned, but also on the threads of all the bolts as many go through the case. A thin coat of sealer around the perimeter of the shims on the back is necessary. If the seals are the type that don't appear "painted" on the outside (the paint is actually sealer) then put some sealer around the outside of the seal before installation. Also check the seal bores for scratches or gouges. If there are any fill them with sealer before installing the seals. Make sure there are no burrs in the bores as well. If so, remove them. A thin coat of sealer on boths sides of the gaskets is a must as well.
I don't use the round gasket that goes underneath the seal or the felt donuts and have had good luck. When you put the sealer on the splines put it on the inside of the yoke from the seal end. That way when you install the yoke it will smear the sealer along the splines creating a better seal and you won't push sealer down into the bearings.

Let us know how it comes out!