1973 cj5 v8 rear axle

Great find for $30!

 

thank you sir

how much do you think that would be

 

Follow the link that was posted for Randy's. They have prices on their web site.

 

something like this

 

The one you linked to is for Powerlock's. They are different than the Trac-loc you have. You need this http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=6282

 

right on the price seems reasonable...what would be involved in the install??

 

That black oil looks reminds me of OEM stuff. At least it doesn't look like it's water contaminated. I use paint thinner or mineral spirits to clean stuff with.

 

I have not done this job, but the FSM has quite detailed instructions about it. The FSM specs a special tool; to me, Randy's tips are about doing it without the special tool. I have not studied the FSM section, but it looks to me like the difficult part is pre-loading the end spider gears so that the side spiders can go in. You need to push against the clutch pack... this is what the extra spider gears and C-clamp are about. Not certain what the big bolt is for.

Depends on what your confidence level is. I'd try it, but I'm (overly?) confident of my ability to figure it out, once I know it can be done.

 

umm well yeah i probably wont replace the cluthes unless i put it under there and its no good. ill prolly just clean it up and put some new fluid in it and call it a day....

now does anyone have a suggestion on cheap paint to use....was thinking of getting some rust converter from walmart auto section. or getting some rust converter rustoleum paint......i would wire brush it first, than prolly give it a good wipe down with some surface cleaner. does this sound alright...??

o and maybe some black appliance paint would be a little more durable...??

just looking for cheap and affective here.(poor college student)

 

I would use mineral spirits in a spray jug, since mineral spirits will remove the crud, but leave a mild anti-rust coating on the gears and such.

Brake cleaner will work, but you will have to do something immediately about rust if you use it,
And make sure you work the gear lube into the side bearings on the differential before you drive the vehicle!
(Small squirt can and turning the axles helps)
You don't want a "Dry Start" on the bearings after something like brake cleaner!

Once you clean up the differental case (Inside the housing) take some pictures.
It doesn't look like a trac-lock, but I can't really tell with the camera angles you have.
Try and flash one up in the ring gear so I can see if there are clutch tabs showing...

 

But if the diff cover has ever been off for any reason, the tag is likely long gone.

 

hey just thought of a question....

i was taking a look at the my axle. and i spun the pinion gear or the little yoke not sure what to call it. (where the driveshaft bolts up). so while i was spinning i held one of the alxes. and the other one just spun. this would be a sign of an open differential wouldnt it??? or are the clutch's just worn out?? or do they need to spin at a certain speed to engage both wheels??

thanks, Matt

 

AFAIK the clutches will never wear enough so that you can turn against them by hand. If you can hold one wheel, turn the yoke, and the other wheel turns, then it's an open differential.

 

right on. looks like it will be welded than.(locked) i dont think thats to bad of an idea. i mean i paid thirty bucks.....if it breaks i can just put my old one back on there right?? =]

 

Locked is not welded. A locking differential only allows one wheel to turn faster than the other; ie it acts like a ratchet to let the outside wheel turn faster in a turn. A welded differential (so-called "Lincoln locker" after the Lincoln welder) welds the differential gears together so that the wheels must turn at the same speed; ie the tires scuff when you go around a corner.

A limited slip differential (LSD) has clutches between the wheels, that allow some slippage when you go around a corner. The factory option is a LSD made by Dana called Trac-Lock - very common option.

You won't be able to tell the difference between a locker, a LSD or welded by hand - you just can't apply enough force to the wheels to tell the difference. Take the cover off and look.

 

not sure what to look for when i take off the cover...

 

I wouldnt weld a trakloc carrier by the way.
they are not as strong as a regular carrier.

FWIW

 

Welded is obvious.

For the others, it's hard to describe. Post a pic and we can tell you what you have. - Never mind - it's a Track-Lock limited slip differential, shown above. Not a locker, not welded. Limited slip.

 

okay what im saying is that "i dont know what to look for in there":to tell if its a trac-lock....

i could have sworn it says something about limited slip oil on the tag. so i thought it was a L/S.....but like i said i the spun the pinion. and held one wheel and the other spun. which would lead me to believe it is a open...

so what im asking is...is it open or limited slip????... as in how do i look in the diff and tell if its a trac lock???

and if it is an open diff than im just going to weld solid.....bit if its a trac lock than ill just leave it alone and roll with it.

thanks, Matt


EDIT***

so how are you making this assumtion?? does the open dif look much different than the diff in my picture??

 

from your original pictures I'm guessing trac lok
but it's hard for me to tell from the angle of the photo
can you rotate and show the spider gear/open area of the carrier ?
it's easier for me to tell you what you have than try to explain it to you.